Counterfeit 1943 Copper Cents


As a member of several Facebook coin groups, I see 1943 P/D/S replicas and, on occasion, die struck Chinese counterfeits. Yet many new collectors claim to have found these ultra rarities, believing they struck it rich. They have been informed by click-bait posts and videos telling viewers that these rarities will turn up in rolls and pocket change.

What turns up are replicas, altered dates, copper plated steel cents and die-struck copper counterfeits.

Approximately 40 copper-alloy cents were accidentally minted across all three U.S. Mints (Philadelphia, Denver, San Francisco) in 1943. The 1943-D is the rarest (1 known), while 1943-S (San Francisco) is exceptionally rare (fewer than 5 known). Some 20+ 1943 cents are said to exist.

Types of Fake Coins

Copper plated zinc cents cost less than $10 on Etsy and other sites. These are replicas, as in the photo below.


Chinese counterfeiters have perfected their craft making fake 1943 P/D/S “copper” cents.

Common production methods include:

  • Striking on Non-Magnetic Blanks: Counterfeiters use copper or bronze blanks to strike fake coins. Unlike genuine 1943 steel cents that are magnetic, these fakes will not stick to a magnet as if genuine copper.
  • Transfer Die Technology: Counterfeiters often use transfer dies, taking a genuine 1943 steel cent and pressing it into a heated, metal to create an exact negative image of the coin. Then they strike copper or bronze copies.
  • Copper Plating: Counterfeiters also take common 1943 steel pennies and coating them in a thin layer of copper. These, however, will still be magnetic.
  • Date Alteration: Some forgers take genuine copper pennies from 1945, 1948, or 1949 and manually rework the last digit into a “3.”

The latest threat involves advanced operations in China with minting equipment on par with the US Mint.

Simple detection methods include using

  1. A magnet. If the coin sticks to it, it isn’t copper.
  2. A coin scale to see if your specimen weighs 3.1 grams. (Steel cents weigh 2.7 grams.)
  3. A lupe to view the date and to detect if it has been altered.

Here’s an example of a 1948 cent altered to look like a 1943 copper cent weighing 3.1 grams and passes the magnet test:


1943 Copper Cent

A more advanced method to detect counterfeits concerns die markers.

This person claims to have found a 1943 copper cent below. The date on genuine copper and steel cents are the same. Also, on the 1943 cent, the word “liberty” is strongly struck without die deterioration. Here is his counterfeit:


Here’s how to check using die markers:


As you can see, the “9” in the counterfeit is lower than the “9” of the steel an genuine cent.

1943-D Copper Cent

Only one 1943-D Copper Cent has been found. Again, the market is flooded with thousands of replicas and counterfeits.

A genuine 1943-D copper cent would have the exact same date position as a 1943-D steel cent. Because both coins were struck using the same dies, the alignment and shape of the digits must be identical. 

This fake was posted on Facebook:


You can see that the date and mintmark differ from the sole authentic one:


The counterfeit is also affirmed when compared with the date and mintmark position of the 1943-D Steel Cent:


1943-S Copper Cent

Genuine 1943-S copper cents are very rare, with fewer than 5 known. Look for faint doubling on the date and die scratches near the motto and wheat stalks.


Another die marker on some 1943-S copper cents is a tilted “S.”


Odds of finding any of these ultra rarities are minimal. Consider the tens of thousands of replicas, altered dates, plated steel cents and die-struck counterfeits as opposed to the handful of genuine rarities that actually have been slabbed. Nevertheless, if you still believe you have one of the dozen or so lost genuine 1943 copper cents, send to PCGS, CAC, ANACS or NGC for the verdict.

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Fake CC and P mint Double Eagles


By Jack Riley

Counterfeiters aren’t numismatists. They often use incorrect design types that are impossible for a given coin and do not understand how third party grading services holder the coins they certify. This example may take the cake! A counterfeit 1892-CC $20 Gold piece in a fake PCGS holder. Not just any holder, a holder pedigreed to D.L. Hansen!

Let’s view the counterfeit example compared to the genuine one below that from Hansen’s collection.


When you compare the two, it is very clear that they are not the same coin. One can see the CC position is incorrect along with a large lump on the ribbon.


The “Family” is likely very extensive and many dates have been noted sharing this common reverse. Additional images shared below are from an 1891-CC coin as well as an 1893-CC. These were recently shared to a large Facebook group where they got mixed reviews.


Now to the connection between the common reverses. This 1882-CC shares the “common reverse.” The obverse is very distinct as well for this date. The 1882 date was interchanged with both P and CC mint reverses. Noteworthy: the surface lump above Liberty’s head, spike protruding from the bridge of the nose, and a raised line under the date.


Interesting occurrence with the Philadelphia reverse is that it was later tooled to repair the denticles. The first two images show a depression along with the deformation of the denticles at approximately K12.


The next two images show the deformed denticles but no indentation within them.


“Common” P reverse

Closeup images of markers include:

  • Deformed Denticles with a depression, later was repaired
  • Spike through “C
  • Small field dot above “T

“Common” CC reverse

Closeup image of repeating marks include:

  • CC centered above denomination
  • Small chip above “DOLLARS”

If you purchase a counterfeit coin, especially one as expensive as a $20 gold one, contact the seller for a refund. If the seller refuses to accept a return for a counterfeit coin, immediately initiate a dispute with the payment platform (eBay, PayPal, or credit card company) for an “item not as described,” as counterfeit items are illegal to sell. Document the fraud with professional authentication, and if necessary, report the seller to the U.S. Secret Service or local law enforcement.

If a dispute cannot be resolved, and you report the fraud to the U.S. Secret Service, you may be required to turn the coin over to authorities. In any case, never attempt to re-sell the coin, even if you disclose that it is a counterfeit.

If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley, John Lorenzo and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

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You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

An extensive “Family” of counterfeit Washington Quarters


By Jack Riley

This article stems from a “copy” stamped key date 1932-D Washington Quarter. This abides by the Hobby Protection Act and isn’t to deceive anyone. As we know, counterfeiters don’t abide by the law!


The next example was sent to me by a friend. Highlighted obverse markers match the previous “copy.”


An example surfaced on eBay from a rather large seller. After a brief discussion with them showing this to be a counterfeit they removed the listing. The obverse shares a couple repeating marks, but we see additional ones to be used in the future. The reverse is a match to the example shared to be by a fellow collector.


Another internet venue provides us images of a 1932-S that shares this “common obverse.” Highlighted in green are repeating marks for this reverse.


It isn’t only key date coins that counterfeiters target! This 1936-S shares the same reverse as the aforementioned 1932s.


Keep in mint that shopping venues Temu and Etsy sell thousands of replicas, some die struck, further eroding the hobby market.


It is also important to learn die markers for the 1932-D and S key dates. Click here for that.

f you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

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Markers for 1932-D and S Quarters


The 1932-D Quarter (436,800 minted) and 1932-S Quarter (408,000, lowest mintage in the series) are a coveted pair for collectors. The 1932 Philadelphia Quarter has a mintage of 5,404,000 with no mintmark, of course, on the reverse, making it a target for added mintmark fakes.

In this article, we provide die markers so that you can check to ensure that your quarter is authentic.

These key dates are avidly sought by collectors, with the D and S quarters especially rare in uncirculated condition. Compare values compiled by PCGS CoinFacts:


1932-D Die Markers

The most obvious die marker concerns the filled mint mark (“D”) with visible serifs and bloated appearance, even in uncirculated grade:


Here’s how the mintmark looks in more common circulated grades (note you can see still serifs).


You should also look for die cracks on the reverse, especially near the eagle’s left wing or the motto “PLURIBUS.” Many but not all display this.

Almost all examples in very fine through uncirculated should have well-defined devices. (If mushy, you probably have a base metal China counterfeit.) Because of the low mintage, a very small number of working dies were used to mint this rarity. Research suggests only two obverse dies and two reverse dies were used.

Despite the low mintage, there are no major recognized doubled die or repunched mint mark varieties for the 1932-D, unlike other years in the series. So if you see an distinct RPM, again, you may have a counterfeit.

Another marker is a crack running from the hairline across Washington’s head on the obverse.


1932-S Die Markers

You may encounter difficulty identifying die markers for the 1932-S Washington Quarter as they primarily involve die cracks and scratches on both sides, with a key reverse marker being a crack at the word “PLURIBUS.”


Another marker is a scratch or die crack above the ‘3’ in the date, helping to distinguish genuine coins from counterfeits.


Counterfeit 1932 D and S

Identifying fakes in both quarters, look for casting bubbles (1. below), undefined rim (2.), wrong date placement (3.) and overall mushy appearance (4.)


On 1932-D, you’ll see a sharper mintmark on fake and added mintmark examples. Compare the “D” of the counterfeit quarter (left) with the genuine (right).


China has flooded the market with die struck base and silver counterfeits. High-quality Chinese counterfeiting operations produce 500,000 silver coins (including 1932 D and S) per month. Numismatic Guaranty Company (NGC) reports that thousands of fake 1932-D and 1932-S quarters are circulating.

If you are not an expert grader and are buying or bidding on raw coins, you should bypass raw 1932-D and S Quarters and buy ones graded by major holdering companies.

If you like posts like this, please go to our counterfeit archive with reports from Jack Riley, Jack D. Young, John Lorenzo and Michael Bugeja. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Primer on “Not PCGS” Fakes

This video documents the various ways to identify fake Chinese holders and coins, including lack of logos on slab, pasted Gold Shield sticker, wrong fonts, wrong 1921 label, wrong reverse and so much more. Below the video is a an example of a Carson City Morgan dollar with six significant problems signifying a counterfeit.


This coin was posted on a Facebook coin group feed.


WRONG FONT


Missing NFC Logo


PCGS Cert Shows Different Coin


QR Code Opens to Chinese Fake Certification Site


For more in-depth analysis, see “Detecting Counterfeit Coins.

If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other venues. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Counterfeit Lafayette Dollars


By Jack Riley

Internet venues often give rather interesting finds. In this case, modern counterfeit Lafayette Dollars.

The Lafayette Dollar was the first U.S. commemorative silver dollar, and the first coin to feature an American citizen (Lafayette; made honorary citizen by Congress) and a U.S. President (Washington) together. Add to that its scarcity in mint condition due to low sales and melting.

So this coin is a target of counterfeiters.

The image below is from a semi-large eBay seller who has a number of legitimate coins listed; however, in the mix of these there lies a counterfeit Lafayette Dollar. If anyone wants to authenticate a Lafayette Dollar there are 5 known DuVall varieties and that can be sourced from VAMWorld; these examples do not attribute.


A comparable example below is sourced from a larger Facebook coin group. Presented as s questionable, the coin at a glance looks suspicious.


Comparing the two “coins” we can see a few repeating marks highlighted in green:

  • Depression in A
  • Small circular dot behind the eye
  • Depression on the top of the tail
  • Two sporadic field dots above the date

This third example below clearly stated “copy” and was derived from another online source known for selling counterfeit U.S. coins. Additional markers in red denote common similarities; yet these did not appear present on the eBay example. They are present on the piece shared in the large group.

Highlighted repeating marks in red:

  • Lines protruding from ETT
  • Spike from T
  • Apparently scratch from behind the shoulder
  • “Boot Spur”

If you spot a counterfeit coin on eBay, report it immediately using the “Report Item” link on the listing to eBay’s Trust & Safety team.

If you like posthttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D131V2QRs like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has hundreds of followers on Facebook Coin Groups. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Identifying Counterfeit 1889-CC Morgans


Fortunately, the 1889-CC Morgan dollar has only three known major die varieties (VAMs), each with specific die markers. This makes it easier than other dates with more markers when identifying counterfeits.

The most common practice is to add a CC to the common 1889 Philadelphia Morgan. That is why knowing the die markers for authentic coins is so important.

A mere 350,000 coins in 1889 were struck at the Carson City Mint, and hundreds of thousands of those were melted after 1918 due to the Pittman Act. This makes it a nifty target for criminals. Moreover, the common date 1889 Philadelphia is used for an added mintmark. Here is an example from NGC:


Right off the bat, veteran hobbyists know that the mintmark used in the above example is the wrong one for an 1889-CC dollar.

In this article we will explore die markers for the three aforementioned VAM varieties. The main difference is the position and appearance of the date and mintmark, which uses the larger elliptical “CC” mintmark in production between 1879 and 1893.

Let’s start there by showing the mintmark of an 1878-CC and 1889-CC Morgan:

Note the smaller, thicker non-elliptical mintmark of the 1878-CC. Difference is easily recognizable.

VAM-1 Normal Die

The date “1889” has a normal lateral position, and the mintmark on the reverse is also in a standard position relative to the other devices there. Example:


VAM-2: High 9, Doubled 1

The numeral “9” is set higher than the other numerals in the date, sometimes even with a doubled “1.”


The “CC” mintmark is typically placed further to the right than in other varieties.


VAM-3: Far Date

The entire date is farther to the right than normal and also may also slightly slanted.


The second “C” of the reverse mintmark is higher than the first “C,” as this Vamworld photo shows.


A couple of things before ending here. If you don’t know VAMs and die markers, do NOT purchase a raw 1889-CC Morgan. There are thousands of counterfeits circulating in online auctions. Knowing VAM die markers can be challenging; but once you master them, you’ll be able to inform others when they ask whether their coin is genuine or fake.

If you want to learn about VAMs, start with this beginner’s guide by expert Jack Riley.

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Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and social media. To get the latest discussion and commentaries, click here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Trifecta, CN Counterfeit Coin, Slab and Website


By Jack D. Young

As if the Chinese counterfeit coins in fake PCGS slabs isn’t bad enough, now there appears to be a fake Chinese PCGS website to verify them.

A friend alerted me to the following listing on the Bay:


Past eBay listed counterfeit in a counterfeit not-PCGS slab:


The listing included these interesting other images:

Images from the seller’s listing

The seller had ended the listing based on being told it is a counterfeit, and I started a review to try to determine what was going on here!

So, I started with the “PCGS” slab and some quick checks. Using my on-line barcode scanner I checked the front barcode:


Like many similar bad slabs, the barcode was gibberish and would not scan. Next, I went to the PCGS website to check the noted cert number:

Note from the genuine PCGS site for the cert # look-up

And another bad sign, that cert # “was not found”. So, my next step was to try to read the reverse label QR code. And just a note, many of the previous counterfeits we have documented similar to this one had a QR code that read the cert # correctly but noted the genuine PCGS CN site. A previous example read like this:

Typical previous QR code to pcgs.cn site

And then this one:


Note different website for this cert!

Different result than expected! I do NOT recommend readers going to the site shown, but if you did, this is what comes up:

Fake “PCGS” site, image

WOW, now we have something apparently new to be concerned about with these.

I did notify my contacts at PCGS for a heads-up as well as post it on their CU Forum:

The Trifecta, CN Counterfeit Coin, Slab and Website ! — Collectors Universe

My contacts at PCGS acknowledged they were now aware and reviewing; a check of the fake site Christmas evening indicated it was now unavailable– a nice Christmas present if it lasts…


I did continue to dig a bit and found the following domain information; seemed ironic the “Registrar” has Alibaba in the name😎!


The best way to guard against buying a counterfeit coin is to purchase an authentic one from a reputable dealer. Barring that, view Jack Young’s Jack Riley’s and my articles on counterfeit coins published by Proxiblog.

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Fake 1914-D Cents


The most counterfeited coin is the 1909-S VDB; but the 1914-D Lincoln Cent actually has a smaller surviving population. This makes the 1914-D a prime target for counterfeiters.

The 1914-D Lincoln cent, scarce in high grades, is often faked by altering dates (i.e. 1944-D) or adding mint marks.

Look for a large gap between the “9” and the second “1” in date. 1944-D cents are commonly altered to appear as 1914-D cents, but this leaves too much space between the first two digits and the last two digits.

See this example from NGC:


Weight is important. a genuine 1914-D should weigh in at 3.11 grams. Counterfeits are usually lighter or heavier based on the metal used for the fake coin.

Key die markers include a diamond-shaped or crisp “D” mint mark.

Here is what an authentic D mintmark should look like:

Here is a counterfeit mintmark:

Let’s see them together so you can tell how to identify a counterfeirt:

The genuine mintmark is crisp; the counterfeit, mushy.

Compare the position and shape of the mintmark to known genuine examples. Added “D” counterfeiters often use wrong mintmark style and position. Example:


Also look for evidence of die polishing, especially on Lincoln’s coat lapel, common for this date.


Finally, authentic 1914-D cents do not have VDB anywhere. Those initials used to appear on the reverse in some 1909 cents; but that was removed because it called too much attention to itself. No designer initials appear in 1914. The VDB was restored under the shoulder of Lincoln in 1918.


If you have any doubt about a raw 1914-D, do not purchase it because of the predominance of counterfeits. Spend your money on a slabbed example from PCGS, ANACS, CAC or NGC. If you have a raw 1914-D Cent, send it in for authentication. That will ensure a sale when you are ready to sell.

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Struck Counterfeit 1875cc C-17 Trade Dollars


By Jack Riley

This started on December 26, 2024, when I stumbled across an eBay listing of two Trade Dollars. Both “Bodybagged” by two separate TPG services. NGC returned one as “altered surfaces” and PCGS as “questionable authenticity.” Upon reviewing the images and referencing John Coxe’s attribution guide to Trade Dollar varieties, they didn’t match any known variety.


After a while of internet browsing I stumbled across a Heritage Auction listing of this previously unknown variety. After correspondence with John Coxe, I learned this new genuine variety is to be listed as the 1875cc C-17 when the SSDC site is updated as the last update was in 2022.

NGC example

PCGS example


Now to the coins! Not only did these two match a C-17 but they shared a number of circulation marks indicative of counterfeits. Interestingly both passed a sigma test for 90% silver, along with weight and dimensions being within tolerance of genuine Trade Dollars.

Sigma Metalytics test


Upon review of the obverse, I found there are a number of characteristics indicating these are struck counterfeits. I highlight three primary pickup points of the obverse to distinguish these from genuine counterparts.

  • Indentation in the denticle below the base of 1
  • Depression in the center below Liberty’s knew
  • Field depression adjacent to the star and forehead

Reviewing both examples, the reverse shares a number of repeating circulation marks. However, many are minute and difficult to photograph. Primary pickups are as followed:

  • Linear depression of the 9 in “900”
  • Diagonal line through “R” in the motto

After sharing these with my friend Jack Young another example surfaced on Ebay a short time later. Now residing in a private collection it is safe from the market!


In preparation of this updated article an example surfaced on eBay certified by PCGS. This is the only example I have seen of this in an authentic TPG holder. It is noteworthy to mention the certification photo indicates it was certified in PCGS’s Chinese facility.


With only a few of these struck counterfeits being seen within the last year, it is safe to assume more exist and may already be in private collections. While the genuine variety itself appears to be scarce, it is unlikely to stumble across one of the struck counterfeits, but nothing is impossible. Actually a very easy variety to spot with CC set further right than any other variety of the date along with a hub break of the “I” of “UNITED”.

If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups and across social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.