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With the popularity of coin microscopes, hobbyists are finding all manner of doubled dies, but only one really is valuable. Nevertheless, it is important to identify the three main types so that you can tell whether you have a valuable or face value coin.
Types of doubling covered in this article:
Hub doubling.
Machine doubling.
Die deterioration doubling.
By becoming familiar with the various types of doubling, you not only will be able to increase your knowledge of numismatics but also can help others with their finds.
Hub Doubling
This is the most important kind of doubling, always valuable because most kinds have a decent spread of letters, numbers and devices. You usually do not need a microscope. You can see these with a loupe or naked eye.
This type of doubling is produced by a misaligned hub that engraves the defect directly into the working die, meaning the image will be evident in every coin struck by that working die. That is why the result is called a variety, and not an error.
Here is the most famous doubled die resulting from a misaligned working die:
Some 40,000 of the 1955 DDO were initially struck, with about half of the run caught and destroyed, leaving about 24,000 that made it into circulation.
The key distinction of hub doubling is separated, raised and rounded doubling. Older coins typically have this kind of doubling. In the 1990s, the US Mint introduced what is called a Single Squeeze Process, reducing the number of doubled dies with less of a spread and with doubling occurring more toward the middle of the coin.
Machine doubling occurs when the die moves slightly during the striking process, distinguishing it from hub doubling, which is associated with the working die.
Because machine doubling happens during a strike, its “double” image is flat and shelf-life and not raised enveloping the letter or number like hub doubling,
Compare the two in this comparison image:
Machine doubling, which often requires a microscope to see, is common because the Mint uses extraordinarily high-speed machinery whose vibration often causes the working die to bounce on impact.
Machine doubling typically is caused by a single strike, meaning not all coins of that run will have the same impression, as happens with hub doubling. That is why machine doubling is a mechanical error and not a variety.
It also has no collector value.
Die Deterioration Doubling (DDD)
Like any manufacturing facility, the US Mint uses its equipment on a cost-saving basis, meaning working dies are used until they begin to deteriorate. The striking process is high-speed and powerful. When a die is overused, some of the lettering, numbering or devices begin to erode slightly with metal flows entering the degrtaded areas.
That’s why die deterioration doubling is common, without value, even though at times this mechanical error looks stretched rather than flat. This is how you distinguish between machine doubling and DDD. (Also, die deterioration appears to be a weak strike.)
When the US Mint started producing copper-plated zinc coins with pressure to produce billions of them each year, mint operators over-extended the lives of working dies, producing millions of DDDs.
There are two other types of doubling, “Split Plate Doubling” and “Reduction Lathe Doubling.” The former also is associated with copper-plated zinc cents with the plating eroding in what looks like doubling, especially on mintmarks that people confuse with repunched mintmarks (RPMs).
The final type is “Reduction Lathe Doubling,” really a production issue that happens when a design is transferred to a master hub by a lathe vibrating slightly. The doubling is subtle and again, not valuable. It looks like machine doubling and really is just a category of it.
If you would like to learn more about the minting process, click here.
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A recent eBay listing of a counterfeit 1909-S VDB cent sparked me to look at the rest of this particular seller’s offerings. They had nearly half of a dozen 1881-S Morgan Dollars along with a few counterfeits of other series. The 1881-S is a relatively common coin and easily found in high mint state grades; one wouldn’t expect to stumble across a counterfeit. The first image is of one of the represented coins.
A comparison of three of the coins tells the tale. Given the scratches, dings and random “circulation” marks, this isn’t a mix up of images. There are three separate coins.
Anyone who does a lot of variety attributions of Morgan Dollars will know that 1881-S is a difficult year to attribute and generally won’t be done just by a glance like some dates. All examples from this eBay seller exhibit the same repeated contact marks.
Notable obverse marks:
Line through S
Surface scratch left of U
Small surface mark between right star 5 and 6
Notable reverse marks:
Small scratch below the base of S
Field dot between U-N and above U
Minute surface flaws between E-D
If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
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Everyday on Facebook coin groups, Reddit and eBay, dryer and spooned coins appear with their owners believing they have found valuable errors. Let’s look closely at both examples of post mint damage in this article so you can identify what you have if you found examples in pocket change (literally) and rolls.
Also, this article showcases examples of sellers claiming dryer and spooned coins are valuable errors. They are not. They have no collector value.
Dryer Coin
A coin left in a home dryer or, more probably, a commercial dryer at a laundromat is known in numismatics as a “dryer coin,” dramatically changing dimensions so that it appears vastly different than the denomination.
The coin typically remains in a person’s pocket after being washed and tumbled and then falls out of the clothing and is exposed to high heat in a dryer. Sometimes it falls into the gap between the rotating inner drum and the stationary outer frame of a commercial dryer where it suffers even more damage due to grinding, friction and heat.
If you put the phrase “dryer coin” into a search engine, you get dozens of examples on Facebook and Reddit.
Dryer coins undergo these transformations: a flattening and widening of the edge, losing any reeding in the process. The heat pushes from the center outward resulting in a state that often resembles a bicycle tire with enhanced rim. The diameter becomes smaller.
Also, the result is a “mushy” discolored surface with devices literally melting away, as in the above coin. That is not a grease strike. It is a cent that was exposed to high heat in a commercial dryer. Compare:
It is important to distinguish between dryer coins and spooned ones. While both are considered damage, there are distinct differences.
Spooned
A spooned coin often looks like a dryer coin. In this case, however, the edge of a coin is intentionally hammered or pressed with the back of a spoon, eventually flattening and widening it.
The process is used to make a coin ring, as in this example:
The process of tooling the coin varies from a kitchen spoon to a handy person’s tool box and machinery. Basically, the coin is secured on a hard surface so that the person can use the back of a metal spoon, tapping, rotating and rubbing the coin over a long period (we’re talking days or even weeks).
Eventually the coin starts to mushroom toward the edge, developing an extended ring-like edge as in the above coin. At that point what remains of the coin is punched or drilled out, leaving the ring, which eventually is polished.
Some finished rings are lovely, as in this example:
Of course the finished ring looks nothing like a dryer coin. The confusion happens when the person abandons the spooning process and leaves the coin with a large ring-like edge but with the remaining devices of the coin still visible without the mushy appearance of a dryer coin.
That’s how you tell the difference between a spooned and dryer coin. Compare:
As you might expect, unknowledgeable people sell dryer and half-spooned coins as valuable error. Here’s an example of a dryer coin offered for $150.
Here’s an example of a spooned quarter misidentified as an error for $500.
Proxiblog has the largest illustrated glossary on the web. Click here. You can compare dryer and spooned coins to sunken dies and heat damage. Study all the examples so that you, too, can become a coin expert.
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There are various patterns of toned coins ranging from rainbow to terminal. Here are the major ones. You can use these terms when selling or sharing your coins with others.
Rainbow
Rainbow colors in nature are Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo and Violet. These can be found on coins, as in this example from one of my former coins sold on GreatCollections:
Monster
This term is often misused. Coins that are true “monsters” have exceptionally vibrant, intense, and often, high-value colorful toning, frequently associated with Morgan dollars. Again, from one of my former coins:
Target (Bull’s Eye)
Concentric rings of color, often developing from the outside rim inward. This was one of my favorites and difficult to sell:
Pastel
These coins exhibit soft, light and delicate colors, as in this former coin I owned, also sold on GreatCollections:
Natural/Skin
This refers to natural, undisturbed patina that has developed over a long period. Again, a former coin:
Cabinet
Deep, attractive, often golden or brown toning that develops slowly over many years of storage in a felt-lined cabinet. This coin actually toned over decades in such a cabinet, with the coin saved after JFK’s passing.
Crescent
Toning that appears as a crescent moon shape on a portion of the coin, often caused by how it sat in a holder or album. It was difficult for me to sell this one:
Textile
A rare sought-after pattern that mimics the texture of the canvas mint bag in which the coin was stored. Again, one of my former coins:
Mottled/Splotchy
Uneven and spotty toning as in this former coin of mine:
Taped
Coins originally taped to an album that may develop unique toning where the tape once was, as in this formerly owned coin:
Corrugated Cardboard
These are extremely rare and coveted coins because they often take on the colors of the American flag. I mourned selling this one:
Black/Terminal
Advanced oxidation that can hide coin details, often reducing desirability. You can find plenty of these once beautifully toned American Silver Eagles that crossed over from old green PCI holders to PCGS, with the Gold Shield interacting again with the toning until it goes terminal. You can see that with crossed over coins that had TrueView:
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Fugazi is an Italian slang term meaning “fake” or “bogus,” referring to a counterfeit object, a sham, or a fraudulent person. People who counterfeit coins are shams and frauds.
We “out” them on Proxiblog.
Prompting this article is a 1914-D cent that a friend shared in a large Facebook coin group. After I explained that this was not genuine, I received additional closeup images for analysis.
A closeup image of the date and mintmark shows this coin is not a genuine 1914-D. The shape and placement of the mintmark is incorrect. This, however, is not the case of an altered date or an added mintmark; the entire coin is counterfeit.
This 1931-S had surfaced on eBay within the last few months. Comparing both reverses it is clear these were produced from the same makers and related to a large “family” of counterfeits. I’m calling this family “Notched O.” More on that momentarily.
The image quality of the 1931-S is subpar, leaving blurry images, yet enough to discern the repeating marks.
“Common marks” highlighted in Red:
Depression in O
Dent in “N” as well as the “O” in the word OF
Small indent of the “E”
At this writing I’ve only seen this on both 1914-D and 1931-S. Likely this exists on many key and semi key dates as well.
To check if your coin may belong to this “fugazi” (i.e. “fake”), look for those common marks highlighted above in red.
If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
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You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.
If you are in the market for fabulous toned coins, think about Tidy House and American Savings lots whose cardboard produces rainbow patinas.
But there are pitfalls, too. Unscrupulous sellers keep the toned coins and swap lesser or doctored coins.
This article showcases the type of toning you might find with original offerings.
Tidy House Dollars
“Tidy House dollars” are Morgans used in a promotional campaign by the Tidy House Products Company, a cleaning products company, in the 1960s.
The company reportedly acquired a large number of common-date Morgan silver dollars, mostly from the New Orleans (O) mint from the 1880s, from a U.S. Treasury hoard. These coins were sealed in a cardboard holder with an advertising description.
Toning is the main reason “Tidy House dollars” are collected. Coins in the cardboard develop rainbow patinas, as in this example from my collection:
I sent to PCGS and got this grade and TrueView:
But what to do with the now-empty Tidy House holder? You should save the holder after you slab your coin and then, when ready to sell it, show if as this seller did on eBay:
Don’t be fooled by Tidy House holders with coins having no patina. Those probably have been swapped out. You want to buy original ones with rainbows. Otherwise, let the lot go.
And keep in mind that Tidy House only holdered Morgans, not Peace dollars, as in this artificially toned one that I wrote about at Coin World.
In addition to Morgan dollars, Tidy House also holdered 1964 JFK Half Dollars. Those, too, usually have magnificent toning. Here’s an example from one of my Tidy House purchases:
Here’s an offering with all the paperwork and obviously swapped out coins.
American Savings Dollars
American Savings and Loan” banks, especially in Texas, also ran promotions using silver dollars, especially 1979-S Morgans, from a bank bag purchased from the Mint in the 1960s. These have exceptional toning.
I purchased this one in 2022:
Here’s how it graded:
I use the TrueView for my Proxiblog logo.
The empty holder is in my office drawer.
As with the Tidy House dollar, do not purchase any American Savings dollar that lacks toning or has ugly or doctored patina. If the coin exhibits wear, it didn’t come from the bank bag, as this coin, which is AU and has been cleaned and retoned:
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No one is exactly sure how this variety happened, but the US Mint–under pressure then to produce billions of coins–mistakenly used the reverse of a 1968-S Proof Dime for the reverse of 1969-P, 1970-P and 1970-D Roosevelt business strikes. The official variety is known as 1969 rev. of 1968, 1970 rev. of 1968 and 1970-D rev. of 1968 (FS-901).
The FS-901 refers to a catalog number identified by Bill Fivaz and J.T. Stanton, co-authors of the Cherrypickers’ Guide to Rare Die Varieties of United States Coins.
“Reverse of 1968” on these three dimes is a numismatic variety recognized by all major holdering companies. The 1968 reverse shows two distinct, well-defined, and sharp valleys in the torch flame, whereas the business strike reverse has a less defined, blurry flame.
The 1969-P FS-901 is generally considered the rarest of the three with about 15 holdered by PCGS. 1970-D FS-901 is the most common with about 30 holdered by PCGS. About 20 for the 1970 rev. of 68.
All of these varieties can be found in rolls, although they are very scarce.
While this is a rare variety by population data, PCGS values remain low, ranging from $50-100.
You can find the variety on eBay selling about the same or higher, although the coins are unholdered, as in these examples:
If you are a dime roll hunter, keep your eyes peeled for other Roosevelt dime varieties:
As you can see, there are not many varieties for Roosevelt dimes, but click the links above and go to Proxiblog for articles explaining die markers.
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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.
As a member of several Facebook coin groups, I see 1943 P/D/S replicas and, on occasion, die struck Chinese counterfeits. Yet many new collectors claim to have found these ultra rarities, believing they struck it rich. They have been informed by click-bait posts and videos telling viewers that these rarities will turn up in rolls and pocket change.
What turns up are replicas, altered dates, copper plated steel cents and die-struck copper counterfeits.
Approximately 40 copper-alloy cents were accidentally minted across all three U.S. Mints (Philadelphia, Denver, San Francisco) in 1943. The 1943-D is the rarest (1 known), while 1943-S (San Francisco) is exceptionally rare (fewer than 5 known). Some 20+ 1943 cents are said to exist.
Types of Fake Coins
Copper plated zinc cents cost less than $10 on Etsy and other sites. These are replicas, as in the photo below.
Chinese counterfeiters have perfected their craft making fake 1943 P/D/S “copper” cents.
Common production methods include:
Striking on Non-Magnetic Blanks: Counterfeiters use copper or bronze blanks to strike fake coins. Unlike genuine 1943 steel cents that are magnetic, these fakes will not stick to a magnet as if genuine copper.
Transfer Die Technology: Counterfeiters often use transfer dies, taking a genuine 1943 steel cent and pressing it into a heated, metal to create an exact negative image of the coin. Then they strike copper or bronze copies.
Copper Plating: Counterfeiters also take common 1943 steel pennies and coating them in a thin layer of copper. These, however, will still be magnetic.
Date Alteration: Some forgers take genuine copper pennies from 1945, 1948, or 1949 and manually rework the last digit into a “3.”
The latest threat involves advanced operations in China with minting equipment on par with the US Mint.
Simple detection methods include using
A magnet. If the coin sticks to it, it isn’t copper.
A coin scale to see if your specimen weighs 3.1 grams. (Steel cents weigh 2.7 grams.)
A lupe to view the date and to detect if it has been altered.
Here’s an example of a 1948 cent altered to look like a 1943 copper cent weighing 3.1 grams and passes the magnet test:
1943 Copper Cent
A more advanced method to detect counterfeits concerns die markers.
This person claims to have found a 1943 copper cent below. The date on genuine copper and steel cents are the same. Also, on the 1943 cent, the word “liberty” is strongly struck without die deterioration. Here is his counterfeit:
Here’s how to check using die markers:
As you can see, the “9” in the counterfeit is lower than the “9” of the steel an genuine cent.
1943-D Copper Cent
Only one 1943-D Copper Cent has been found. Again, the market is flooded with thousands of replicas and counterfeits.
A genuine 1943-D copper cent would have the exact same date position as a 1943-D steel cent. Because both coins were struck using the same dies, the alignment and shape of the digits must be identical.
This fake was posted on Facebook:
You can see that the date and mintmark differ from the sole authentic one:
The counterfeit is also affirmed when compared with the date and mintmark position of the 1943-D Steel Cent:
1943-S Copper Cent
Genuine 1943-S copper cents are very rare, with fewer than 5 known. Look for faint doubling on the date and die scratches near the motto and wheat stalks.
Another die marker on some 1943-S copper cents is a tilted “S.”
Odds of finding any of these ultra rarities are minimal. Consider the tens of thousands of replicas, altered dates, plated steel cents and die-struck counterfeits as opposed to the handful of genuine rarities that actually have been slabbed. Nevertheless, if you still believe you have one of the dozen or so lost genuine 1943 copper cents, send to PCGS, CAC, ANACS or NGC for the verdict.
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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.
Counterfeiters aren’t numismatists. They often use incorrect design types that are impossible for a given coin and do not understand how third party grading services holder the coins they certify. This example may take the cake! A counterfeit 1892-CC $20 Gold piece in a fake PCGS holder. Not just any holder, a holder pedigreed to D.L. Hansen!
Let’s view the counterfeit example compared to the genuine one below that from Hansen’s collection.
When you compare the two, it is very clear that they are not the same coin. One can see the CC position is incorrect along with a large lump on the ribbon.
The “Family” is likely very extensive and many dates have been noted sharing this common reverse. Additional images shared below are from an 1891-CC coin as well as an 1893-CC. These were recently shared to a large Facebook group where they got mixed reviews.
Now to the connection between the common reverses. This 1882-CC shares the “common reverse.” The obverse is very distinct as well for this date. The 1882 date was interchanged with both P and CC mint reverses. Noteworthy: the surface lump above Liberty’s head, spike protruding from the bridge of the nose, and a raised line under the date.
Interesting occurrence with the Philadelphia reverse is that it was later tooled to repair the denticles. The first two images show a depression along with the deformation of the denticles at approximately K12.
The next two images show the deformed denticles but no indentation within them.
“Common” P reverse
Closeup images of markers include:
Deformed Denticles with a depression, later was repaired
Spike through “C”
Small field dot above “T”
“Common” CC reverse
Closeup image of repeating marks include:
CC centered above denomination
Small chip above “DOLLARS”
If you purchase a counterfeit coin, especially one as expensive as a $20 gold one, contact the seller for a refund. If the seller refuses to accept a return for a counterfeit coin, immediately initiate a dispute with the payment platform (eBay, PayPal, or credit card company) for an “item not as described,” as counterfeit items are illegal to sell. Document the fraud with professional authentication, and if necessary, report the seller to the U.S. Secret Service or local law enforcement.
If a dispute cannot be resolved, and you report the fraud to the U.S. Secret Service, you may be required to turn the coin over to authorities. In any case, never attempt to re-sell the coin, even if you disclose that it is a counterfeit.
If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley, John Lorenzo and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other venues. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.
You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.
