Filled “S” 1921-S Morgan

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Grease or debris, coupled with die deterioration, causes a filled mintmark, evidenced on many coins, including Morgan dollars. But the “1921-S VAM 6B, Filled S” dollar is special because the mintmark has a flaw in the die as well as a gouge on the obverse.

Before we delve into this variety, we need to define some terms, beginning with VAMs, initials of numismatists Van Allen and Mallis who cataloged die varieties of U.S. Morgan and Peace silver dollars.

You can learn more about VAMs by reading this article by Jack Riley.

As noted earlier, the specific die marker for this coin is: VAM 6B.

In addition to the filled “S” mintmark, the 1921-S variety has a die gouge on the obverse, making it more valuable than a regular issue.

A die gouge can be mistaken at times for a die crack. So we have to define those, too.

Die gouges occur when a foreign object is dragged across the die face, allowing metal to fill the divot, resulting in a raised area. Sometimes the dragged object creates a line, as in the 1921-S VAM 6B dollar. It may appear like a die crack. The difference is a gouge is created by that foreign object whereas a die crack results from pressure during the striking process.

Here’s an example:

Now that we know those terms, we can discuss the die markers of the 1921-S VAM 6B.

Let’s look at the filled S mintmark first:

The filled mintmark of this Morgan variety differs from a grease strike because the “S” also exhibits a flaw in the die, distorting the S. Compare:

Now let’s look closely at the die gouge:

Not all die gouges are straight lines as here. In this case, the dragged object caused the line.

This particular variety carries a unique number in the PCGS catalogue (412698) from which these photos have been taken.

PCGS CoinFacts also lists values for this variety. Compare the prices with a regular 1921-S:

As you can see, the higher the grade on this variety, the more valuable.

While you may not be interested in this Morgan, going through the die markers here–or any VAM–will help you learn more about the minting process.

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Rare 1965 Transitional Errors

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When the US Mint makes a transition from one type of planchet to another, as we have seen with the popular 1982-D Small Date brass cent, unused planchets are sure to be stuck somewhere in the coinage bins, which is precisely what happened with 1965 dimes and quarters.

To get your hands on one or both, you need to be rich … or lucky with rolls and pocket change. Nevertheless, you’ll have better odds with these than the 1982-D Small Date transitional error, of which only two have been found.

1965 Dime on 90% Silver Planchet

1965 dimes were supposed to be copper-nickel. The price of silver was responsible for common denominations to transition to clad. A small number of silver blanks got into feeder bins. Between 20-100 of the rarity may have escaped into circulation.

Value is between $3,000 and $13,000 and higher, depending on condition and certification grade by a top-tier holdering company.

To determine if you found the rarity, look at the edge. If you see a copper stripe, you have the clad dime. If you can’t see the stripe, weigh it. A clad dime weighs 2.27 grams; the silver dime, 2.5 grams.

1965 Quarter on 90% Silver Planchet

The same thing happened with quarters as with the dime above. Some leftover 1964 silver planchets got into 1965 clad hoppers. Fewer than 20 are believed to have left the Mint.

An authentic 1965 Washington quarter accidentally struck on a 90% silver planchet is valued between $4,000 and $17,000+, depending on its condition and professional grade and certification. Again, look at the edge. If you see a copper stripe, you have the common clad quarter. If not, weigh it. A clad quarter weighs 5.67 grams whereas a silver one weighs 6.25 grams.

The 1965 Half Dollar “Unicorn”

Hobbyists searching for the “Unicorn”–a coin so rare as to be mythic–continue to look for a 1965 Half Dollar struck on a 1964 90% silver planchet. Hey, if the same thing happened with the dime and quarter, why not the JFK Half?

Good luck with that. None have been found.

If you think you found the unicorn, it should weigh 12.5 grams whereas a 40% regular strike should weigh 11.5 grams.

It goes without saying, beware of replicas and alterations and false claims on eBay and Facebook.

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15 Transitional Errors. Do You Know Them?

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One of the most accessed Proxiblog articles–thousands, each week–concerns the transitional error 1982-D Small Date bronze cent. But did you know there are 15 famous transitional errors in which the wrong planchet was used during production?

They are happened the same way: The wrong planchet got stuck in a hopper or production bin and somehow was shaken loose and struck.

Here are examples:

1943 Bronze Cents

When the Mint switched from zinc-coated steel cents in 1943, some 30 examples were minted with copper planchets. Each has specific markers, including the date.

To see all the markers for the 1943-P, 20-30 specimens; 1943-D and 1943-S, click here.

1944 Steel Cents

Just as in 1943, the wrong planchet–this time steel cents–got into the hoppers of 1944 bronze planchets. About 30 specimens are estimated to have left the mint.

To see all the markers for the 1944-P, 1943-D and 1943-S, click here.

One of the rarest, next to the 1943-D copper cent (only one example found), is the 1982-D Small Date bronze cent. Only two examples have been found.

1982-D Small Date Bronze Cent

One of the rarest ultra rarities with only two found in 2016 and 2019, the 1982-D Small Date 3.1 grams continues to be one of the most sought-after coins, primarily because social media publicized it across online venues, including YouTube and Facebook.

Again, markers are important–not only the weight. Here’s a quick illustration about Small Date and two aspects of the number “2” on the date.

To read more about these markers, click here.

1965 Silver Dimes

This rarity occurred when 1964 90% silver planchets got into 1965 copper-nickel clad dimes. At the time the Mint was producing both 1964 silver coins and 1965 clad coins, a small number of silver blanks got into feeder bins. Between 20-100 of the rarity may have escaped into circulation.

To determine if you found the rarity, look at the edge. If you see a copper stripe, you have the clad dime. If you can’t see the stripe, weigh it. A clad dime weighs 2.27 grams; the silver dime, 2.5 grams.

1965 Silver Quarter

The same thing happened with quarters as with the dime above. Some leftover 1964 silver planchets got into 1965 clad hoppers. Fewer than 20 left the Mints.

Again, look at the edge. If you see a copper stripe, you have the common clad quarter. If not, weigh it. A clad quarter weighs 5.67 grams whereas a silver one weighs 6.25 grams.

1977-D Silver Clad Quarter

This transitional error happened when a few–estimates are a dozen or so–40% silver Bicentennial planchets, again left over from previous production, got into the wrong hopper.

Again, do the edge and weight tests. If you see a copper stripe on the edge, you have clad quarter. If not, weigh it. A clad quarter weighs 5.67 grams; the transitional error, 5.75 grams.

1965 Half Dollar on Cupra Planchet

In 1965, the Mint struck both silver-clad half dollars and other denominations (like dimes or quarters above). Because both metal stocks were being processed and held simultaneously in the same facility, stray copper-nickel planchets were accidentally fed into the half dollar coining press.

Again, do the edge test on this. You should see a copper stripe. Weigh it on a digital scale. A standard 1965 40% silver-clad half dollar weighs (11.5) grams, the cupra error, significantly less, based on the strike (typically 11 grams or less).

1971-D and 1977-D 40% Silver Kennedy Half Dollars

When the half dollar went clad in 1971, leftover 40% silver planchets from 1970 were struck on this error coin. When the Mint struck 1976 40% silver halves, again a few planchets made it into the 1977 Denver facility. The clad half should show a copper stripe on the edge. If you don’t see that, weigh the coin: A common 1971 and 1977 Kennedy half dollar weighs 11.34 grams; a 40% silver 1971-D or 1977-D, 11.50 grams

Fewer than 30 of these may have made it into circulation.

1974-D and 1977-D Silver Clad Eisenhower Dollars

In 1973, the San Francisco Mint struck both copper-nickel and 40% silver-clad dollars. Some silver planchets were rejected because of poor strikes. These got into the 1974-D barrels and were mistakenly struck on 40% planchets. In 1976, the Mint produced 40% silver Bicentennial Ike dollars. Again, some of the leftovers got into the 1977-D bins.

You can do the edge and weight test on the 1974-D and 1977-D dollars. Edge should show copper stripe. If so, the weight will be 22.68 grams. If you don’t see the stripe, the weight for the transitional error will be 24.59 grams.

Fewer than 15-30 of these are believed to have made it into circulation.

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Identifying 1944-P/D/S Steel Cents

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1944 steel cents from all three US Mints are extremely rare transitional errors occurring when leftover 1943 zinc-coated steel planchets became stuck in annealing furnaces, tote bins or coining presses. Because of their rarity, however–a few dozen have been actually found and authenticated–there are thousands of counterfeits, altered dates and copies flooding online coin venues.

The most common of these ultra rarities came from the Philadelphia Mint, which was using steel planchets to produce foreign coins. Some of those planchets got into the Lincoln cent bin. Fewer than 10 1944-D steel cents have been authenticated. These steel planchets were left over when the Mint started making copper cents that year. Steel planchets were mixed in totes mistakenly and were struck as 1944-S cents.

Step-by-Step Method

  1. To test if you have one of these ultra rarities, use a magnet. If it sticks, you can continue to check if real.
  2. Weigh the coin. If it weighs more than 2.7 grams, typically 3.1 grams, you have a fake.
  3. If not, look at the second “4” in the date. If you spot anything suspicious, such as a scratch or tool mark–or weird spacing between numbers–you have an altered date.
  4. Look for plating bubbles–tiny bumps–in the fields especially. You also might find pitting in these.
  5. Check for strike. Zinc-plated counterfeits have mushy devices and dates. Authentic ones have sharper devices.
  6. A key diagnostic is the word “Liberty.” Again, if mushy, you probably have a fake. In authentic examples, the word not only is sharp but also close to the edge. Striking copper differs from striking steel. The later has more hardness, pushing the “L” close to the rim.

Comparison of “Liberty”

Examples of Fakes

Online sellers on Temu and Etsy have flooded the market with all manner of fakes and replicas.

REPLICAS

CASTING BUBBLES

ZINC PLATED

It goes without saying that you should never bid on or buy a raw 1944 P/D/S steel cent that isn’t certified by a major holding company such as PCGS, NGC, ANACS and CAC. Even then, look up the certification number and check to make sure you are looking at the same coin because China also packages fake coins in fake holders. The best way is to wait for one of these rarities featured on a major auction house such as GreatCollections, Heritage or Stacks Bowers.

f you like posts like this, please go to our counterfeit archive with reports from Jack Riley, Jack D. Young, John Lorenzo and Michael Bugeja. Also, please subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

AI Gone Wild: “It Takes the Glare off” Coin Images!

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By Jack D. Young for Proxiblog

A couple of my current sayings–“Only on the Bay” and “You can’t make this stuff up”–certainly apply to this article.

A good friend and half cent expert sent me a PM with a current eBay half cent link and asked if I saw what he did–pure gibberish in the words and lettering, especially on the reverse.

Reverse 1811 listing image

Wow, is UNITED supposed to look like “EI-EI O”? Kind of reminds me of the recent “Liberty Biberty” insurance commercials! 😎

So, digging further I found the seller had multiple similar imaged listings including this 1884-S Morgan Dollar.

I noticed with this one that the barcode on this “enhanced” image doesn’t scan, and STATES is actually spelled “STATEA”…

Looking up the actual cert number pulled up PCGS TrueView images of the actual coin for this cert.

Subject image on the left, TrueView image on the right

So, not only are the letters misrepresented but some of the nicks and marks of the genuine coin are also smoothed out. Even the “4” is now different!

So I sent a message to the seller, and we had a back and forth that abruptly ended:

And he let the auctions run… I then sent a note to my eBay contacts:

During this research Michael Bugeja and I discussed this situation and the possible implications. He asked AI about AI and received this response:

Sounds like what we are seeing in this seller’s images! And another of his listing’s images:

And Michael’s conversation with the seller and the bottom-line concern. (Read text from bottom up.)

So, crickets from the seller after these exchanges and the listings stayed active. BUT reviewing again after a few days May ALL of the listings were suddenly ended. Maybe eBay actually had a hand in this; it will be interesting to see any relists by this seller in the future!

And a little different spin on the topic: When reviewing eBay listings in my spare time I do see some where a “bad” listing uses exactly the same description as a “good” one.

I assumed the seller just conveniently grabbed the genuine description for use in his listing, but that may not always be the case.

I actually questioned the following seller about his (joke) listing and he responded as follows; I was glad to hear it “passed the ice test” 😎!

I actually wasn’t negative. Then he suddenly ended the listing. Go figure.

It is rather ironic in my opinion his listing was noted as “sponsored” by the Bay. No doubt the sponsorship was via algorithm, maybe a prelude to just how bad that venue can get.

So maybe AI has its place, but I vote to keep it out of my hobby.

If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

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You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Woody vs. Roller Marks

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A woody–woodgrain marks on a coin–is caused by an improper alloy mix whereas similar marks are caused by dirty rollers at the Mint. Woodies are collectible. Roller marks are not.

A woody has irregular, streaky, wood-like toning, usually red brown often mixed with lighter brass-like colors. The lines are uneven, splotchy and on both sides of the coin. They often appear on older Wheat and Indian Head Cents.

Roller marks are easy to identify. They are straight and parallel. They usually appear on both sides of a coin, especially ones minted between 1978-1984.

Here is a handy chart:

Feature Woody (Improper Alloy)Roller Marks (Damage)
AppearanceIrregular, splotchy, wood grain textureStraight, uniform, parallel lines
ColorVaries (Red/Brown/Brass)Same as the rest of the coin
DepthSurface toning, usually flush with metalShallow, incuse lines (cut into the metal)
TextureUsually smoothScratched, feels textured
ConsistencyRandom streakingUniform, consistent width

Woodies are collectible but values depend on the condition and mintage/rarity of the coin. Most Wheat cents sell for $5-50; Indian cents, $10-75. Uncirculated ones can command high prices–basically, what one is willing to pay. Example:

If you are bidding on or buying a coin, make sure you can tell the difference. Roller mark coins are often mislabeled as woodies. Examples:

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1982-D Small Date Cent Scam

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There are all manner of scams by people looking to cash in on collectors who do not know markers for ultra rarities. And when it comes to the 1982-D Small Date Bronze transitional error, there is a desperation by newbies educated by clickbait social media that the third example is out there in pocket change.

Sellers take advantage of such ignorance.

If you are interested in an article about the various types of 1982 cents, including all markers for the transitional error, click here.

But let’s cut to the chase with basic knowledge.

Only two 1982-D Small Date 3.1 grams have been found.

Here’s how they look close up.

Here are markers for the small date.

DO NOT bid or buy any coin that is placed on a scale reading 3.1. You’ll be buying a zinc small date, of little or no value. Or a coin on tinkered scale.

You will see several examples on eBay of sellers showing a regular 1982-D large date bronze cent in a PCGS holder. Sellers think if they claim a regular strike is the small date, you’ll believe it, only because it is holdered by PCGS and you don’t know the markers.

Here’s an example:

Here’s how to decipher.

There are two numbers below the condition. In this case below, 146021.58, means two things: 146021 goes to the CoinFacts designation and the 58, the condition, AU58. In the image below, you can see that the 146021 goes to the regular large date strike.

Here’s another example with the seller claiming this large date is a small date. Again, the 146021 gives it away.

The seller of the above coin did not take kindly to my message that this is a scam.

He doesn’t like his time being wasted. He just wants to waste your money.

Ultra rarities are not found in pocket change; when one is, that becomes a national news story. If you think you found one, do not post it on social media and claim authenticity. If you are so sure, send it to PCGS, NGC, ANACS or CAC. And if you want to buy an ultra rarity, make sure you know how to read the holder company label.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Special W-Mintmark Coins

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Special issue coins typically are made for collectors and have their own designations, devices and mintmarks. Ones featured here are readily available. Some hobbyists collect all of them.

1996-W Roosevelt Dime

One of the most popular special issues is the 1996-W Roosevelt dime, marking the half-century of the design. This was the first base metal coin struck at the West Point mint.

The 1996-W Roosevelt dime is the lowest-mintage business-strike coin in the series (1,457,949). The next lowest was the 1955 dime (12,450,000).

Unlike other business strikes, the coin was not released into circulation. It was a bonus coin included in that year’s U.S. Mint Uncirculated Coin Sets.

It is the only business strike dime carry the W mint mark for West Point.

PCGS recounts the trouble that the Mint had in adding the W mintmark. For the occasion, engraver John Mercanti was asked to hand-punch the mintmark into the die directly. But the steel die was not properly prepared (heated) so the force of the punch made it mushroom. It could not be used. Another engraver had to create an entire new dime model, carving the mintmark directly into the master plaster. This is why the mintmark looks different than on ones used for other W mintmark issues.

If you want to buy or bid on this dime, make sure that it has full bands. PCGS estimates it has holdered some 6,700 dimes that are not full bands compared with 4,500 that have them.

An MS68FB retails for about $60; in MS69FB, about $260.

2019-W Lincoln Cent

The 2019-W cent was produced to celebrate the 110th anniversary of the Lincoln cent. PCGS lists three finishes for the dime, released as a bonus in these sets:

  • Proof finish: Included with the standard 2019 Proof Set.
  • Reverse Proof finish: Included with the 2019 Silver Proof Set.
  • Uncirculated finish: Included with the 2019 Uncirculated Mint Set.

As with all coins manufactured for collectors, the overwhelming number of coins will be uncirculated still and not worth much unless in extremely high grades. Examples of the business strike in MS69 are worth about $30 whereas an MS70 retails for about $350.

2020-W Jefferson Nickel

This was the first U.S. nickel to bear a “W” mintmark. The regular nickel came inside the 2020 Mint Proof Set. A 2020-W Jefferson Nickel in a Reverse Proof format came inside the 2020 Silver Proof Set.

The Mint planned to make a 2020-W nickel with an uncirculated finish to be included in the 2020 Uncirculated Coin Set. The COVID-19 illness limited production, however, and the issue was canceled.

The 2020-W Proof Nickel had a mintage of 464,039; the 2020-W Reverse Proof Nickel, 313,185. These typically retail online for $35 in PR69 and $80 in PR70.

2015-W March of Dimes

The 2015-W March of Dimes Proof Silver Dime and the 2015-P March of Dimes Reverse Proof Silver Dime also were special release issues. They were available only when collectors bought the 2015 March of Dimes Special Silver Set.

2015-W Proof Silver Dime was the first ever silver proof Roosevelt dime to carry the “W” mint mark and also the first non-dollar denomination coin to ever be produced with a reverse proof finish.

The set was limited to 75,000 units. As such, both silver dimes are some of the scarcest in the Roosevelt series.

Depending on the price of silver, the 3-Coin Set typically sells for about $200.

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You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

eBay Counterfeit Scams

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By Jack D. Young

Come on eBay! You can do better than this!

Several friends notified me of an obvious scam on eBay recently involving a PCGS certified 1882-CC image used by multiple sellers (showing the same origin location) listed for sale at a bargain price.

Past auction listing- I added seller’s reverse image to this

I have written previous articles on these “bait and switch” tactics by MANY eBay sellers using genuine coin images (to help fool artificial intelligence, which needs little help to do currently) to sell counterfeit coins. I have actually purchased a couple in the past just to see what a buyer would get and reported them and received my purchase price back.

So, a couple of bad signs with this listing:

Image of a genuine PCGGS certed example; PCGS shows a value of $450.00.

Listed price $39.99 with 2 sold and more than 10 available.

And the seller’s feedback notes:

Well, at least they show eBay “Verified purchases”!

And while I was reviewing this one 5 other listings with the same stock images but different sellers popped up; I started saving images and organizing my files:

From this I put a note together and sent a message to eBay alerting them about this scam and reported the subject listing.

Note to eBay

I reported them all through the feeble AI reporting process with all coming back as no policy violations including the subject example.

And so I decided to buy this one and see what I would receive.

And I received a typical CN counterfeit CC Morgan with the slashed eagle reverse!

I emailed the seller with no response; looks like he packed up his “shop,” and nothing now listed.

And going back to check the listing and follow-up I find eBay now removed the listing! It did allow me to request a return and leave appropriate feedback for the seller.

Now 3 negative feedbacks for the counterfeit bait and switch!

So we’ll see where this goes from here, as eBay stated they will step in if requested May 1. Pretty sure I won’t hear back from the seller by then.

And he apparently sold MANY of these through several different seller IDs right under eBay’s nose.

And continued reviewing turned up the genuine example and seller the scammers used for their listings:

So, come on eBay! You can do better than this.

We can do better, too, as hobbyists by learning how to identify fakes.

If you like posts like this, please go to our counterfeit archive with reports from Jack Riley, Jack D. Young, John Lorenzo and Michael Bugeja. Also, please subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

13 Common Mint Errors of Little Value

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Machines that make coins do so with tens of tons of pressure from incredibly high-speed mass production coining presses that use brittle steel dies on all manner of planchets, some with thin-plating zinc. As working dies reach the end of their lives, or as machines rattle from all that pressure, these common errors occur on different denominations (consult the Illustrated Glossary for definitions):

  • die chatter
  • die chips
  • die cracks
  • die gouge
  • delamination
  • die dent
  • die deterioration
  • filled mint marks
  • machine doubling
  • plating blisters
  • roller marks
  • split plating
  • struck through

These are only worth a few dollars, if you can find anyone who wants to buy them. Go to the “sold” button on eBay and you’ll see the results.

Here’s some die crack examples:

How, specifically, do these errors happen?

Die Deterioration, Chips, Cracks, Gouges, Die Chatter: These occur when working dies–minting hundreds of thousands of coins–become worn from the pressure and brittle. Minute pieces of the die break or crack from the pressure, and metal fill the voids with raised appearance.

Machine Doubling, Die Deterioration Doubling, Die Dents: These are mechanical errors as opposed to mint errors. They occur when the die bounces or moves during coining. The result is not raised but shelflike.

Filled Mintmarks: Until the late 1980s, mintmarks were punched directly into the working die. This was an extra step back then, so not only do the mintmarks appear in different places but also, depending on the punch, were susceptible to clogging.

Plating Blisters, Split Plating Doubling: After 1982, cents were made of zinc. these are caused by trapped gas or thin copper plating breaking over the zinc core, often mimicking doubling.

Roller Marks: Not technically an error, these resemble the mint error on cents called “woodies” (again, consult the glossary) that look like wood grain due to improper annealing. But roller lines are caused by uncleaned rollers used in the minting process.

Delamination: This happens a metal alloy does not cohere properly, resulting in the surface peeling off. These are common in older coins, especially zinc cents.

You do not need a coin microscope to see these. Magnification makes these common errors look significant; they are not. At best these sell for a few dollars on eBay.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.