Counterfeit Danger in Baited Dollar Rolls

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In 2017, I won in an online auction a roll of Morgan dollars supposedly from a Carson City, Nev., bank. The date 1879 was on one end of the roll and the CC Mint mark of the Carson City Mint on the reverse. I paid $2,400 for the roll and reported the results for Coin World.

If the roll was actually from Carson City, with 1879-CCs therein, it would have been a magnificent score, worth tens of thousands. I knew that would not be the case. This was research for an article. As it turned out, there was one 1883-CC low mint state (the coin whose reverse showed on one end of the roll). The rest were sliders with a few uncirculated common date Morgans. A few, though, were toned, so I did recoup some of the investment. In the end, I lost more than $1,300.

That was a baited roll. In other words, someone had access to a Carson City bank paper roll and filled it so that one end had a CC, fooling optimists (fools) that other coins therein had the same rare mintmark.

This article cautions against buying these rolls on eBay, HiBid or other auction venues. Not only because almost all of these have searched already; but because the specter of counterfeits in those rolls is increasing

For instance, Jack D. Young wrote an article titled “Bad Coin Rolls,” about a seller offering two mixed rolls of small cents with an apparent 1857 Flying Eagle counterfeit cent.

Here’s a clearly opened roll from HiBid. Note how loose the ends of the roll are, even though the seller states “SEALED. (For newbies, “sealed” does NOT mean “unopened.”)

Learn what an opened roll looks like, with loose ends that the owner could not get back into original form. Example:

Proxiblog has written about photos of rolls, important before you bid or buy. You should see both ends in any offering to identify if they show evidence of being opened. Here’s a legitimate offering of Peace Dollars with one side (left) tight and original and the other (reverse side, right), opened.

Veteran hobbyists know that you should never bid on these rolls, even if both sides look tight and unopened. A good scammer can use an Exacto knife to open and reseal a roll so that it looks original. (I won’t share how to do that; I learned from my local coin dealer, decades ago, who showed me all the scammer tricks, pre Internet.)

But now, with the onslaught of Chinese fake Morgan dollars, the risk has increased. Many hobbyists cannot identify counterfeit coins. Consider this Etsy copy (right) if inserted into a Morgan roll. Would you be able to tell the difference?

In the past, scammers had to shell out for at least one uncirculated Carson City 1882-1884 Morgan dollars. Now, counterfeits are in play. This, in itself, is a good reason NOT to purchase these rolls.

Recommendations:

  1. If you want to stack silver or buy Morgan and Peace rolls, purchase from reputable online sellers using their own plastic rolls, like APMEX:

2. Do not bid or buy any roll on eBay or other online venues if one end of the roll looks opened or if the seller doesn’t show both ends of that roll. Classic bad example with no ends of roll depicted:

3. Do not fall for baited Carson City bank rolls. Those are almost always opened. Below is a 10-coin roll from eBay. (Note for newbies: Morgan and Peace dollars are routinely offered in 10-coin and 20-coin rolls. Do not assume all rolls have 20 coins.)

Finally, learn about Etsy replicas. Proxiblog has documented these in several articles. CLICK HERE FOR EXAMPLES.

The more you learn about coins, the less chance of your being snookered.

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2024 and 2024-D Cent Doubled Dies

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These newly attributed doubled dies are not universally recognized yet by major holdering companies, meaning you typically will have to ask for attribution and pay extra for that, if you believe you have found and want to slab them. Also, you probably will need a loupe or microscope to see them. But they have been listed on Wexler’s and Variety Vista sites. You can explore the markers for both coins there.

Normally, Proxiblog does not acknowledge these minor errors. Since the Mint uses a single-squeeze hubbing process, meant to eliminate doubled dies, they still can occur when working dies are not properly aligned or when a defect in the die is not immediately recognized.

But these two doubled dies are being found and sold regularly on eBay and other venues. So we will explore them here.

2024 DDO CENT

Both the 2024 and 2024-D have ghost images of a double ear. The 2024 is the most prominent:

You will want to view the date with a loupe or microscope and pay close attention to the second “2” and “4” with less visible doubling on the first “2” and “4”:

You also will find doubling the first four letters of “Trust”:

Again, you can see other minor markers of this variety on Wexler’s and Variety Vista.

2024-D DDO CENT

If you use a coin microscope, you should be able to see doubling on the date, although the led lights can magnify the spread, as in the example below:

There is also a faint ghost image of a doubled ear.

The other markers also are faint. Check Wexler’s or Variety Vista for those.

“Sold” values for the 2024 and 2024-D DDO on eBay generally sell for $10 to $30 in circulated or uncertified uncirculated condition. If the double ear is prominent on a high-grade 2024-D DDR, sellers are getting between $35 and $50.

Do not buy or bid on any of these new doubled dies unless you clearly see the main markers. Many being offered lack them, using high grade 2024 and 2024-D Cents and erroneously stating they are doubled dies.

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9 Official Illustrated Examples of Hub Doubling

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For the veterans looking for specific classes of doubled dies, here are nine with illustrations. While it is important to know these, beginners are discouraged from trying to learn these via memorization. They should access the three main types of doubling. That said, they might still want to see the visuals to grasp all the types of hub doubling creating varieties in coin collecting.

Class I: Rotated Hub Doubling

  • Cause: A rotated die.
  • Appearance: Dramatic uniform doubling.
  • Example: 1955 DDO Cent

Class II: Distorted Hub Doubling

  • Cause: A hub or die is distorted by heat during annealing.
  • Appearance: Irregular doubling spreading toward rim.
  • Example: 1971 DDO Cent

Class III: Design Hub Doubling

  • Cause: A die struck with two different master designs.
  • Appearance: This type creates dramatic “overdates” or design overlaps.
  • Example: 1918/7 Standing Liberty Quarter

Class IV: Offset Hub Doubling

  • Cause: The die shifts in a straight line.
  • Appearance: The doubling shifts evenly across the entire surface in one direction.
  • Examples: 1983 DDR Cent

Class V: Pivoted Hub Doubling

  • Cause: The die rotates between strikes, affecting the rim.
  • Appearance: Clear doubling on the opposite side of the rim.
  • Example: 1995 DDO Cent

Class VI: Distended Hub Doubling

  • Cause: A hub defect causes devices to flatten out and widen.
  • Appearance: Extreme extra thickness on letters and numbers.
  • Example: 1934 DDO Quarter

Class VII: Modified Hub Doubling

  • Cause: A portion of the design is modified on the hub before striking.
  • Appearance: Portions of the original, unmodified design peek out from underneath the newly altered layout.
  • Example: 1941 DDO Cent

Class VIII: Tilted Hub Doubling

  • Cause: Either the hub or the die is slightly tilted at an angle during striking.
  • Appearance: Doubling is usually tightly contained in a centralized area of the strike.
  • Example: 2009 DDR Extra Finger

Class IX: Single Squeeze

Values of the above depend on rarity and condition. Check PCGS CoinFacts for particulars.

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2004 Doubled Die Reverse Cent

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True doubled dies are becoming difficult to find ever since the US Mint installed new machinery (sing-squeeze hubbing) in 1997, virtually eliminating true doubled dies. But they still occur because the machinery requires several presses per working die, and if that is improperly align, viola!: Doubled Dies.

Also, because of the power now of the coining machines, pressure can cause a slight slip and even result in a ghost image.

One of the first examples in the Lincoln Memorial Cent category is the 2004 DDR (also known as 2004 DDR FS-801).

Like the 2006 DDO cent, the misalignment of the 2004 DDR cannot always be easily spotted with a naked eye. You’ll need a loupe or, if you prefer, microscope.

You will be looking for distorted, thick, somewhat bulb-like lettering in “UNITED STATES OF AMERICA” and “E PLURIBUS UNUM.”

Let’s review the markers.

Here are the main pickup points on “E PLURIBUS UNUM.”

After that, check the word “States” for thickness and doubling, as shown here:

Also look for any deformed dots, as here:

To help you visualize differences, compare thickness and doubling next to a regular 2004 reverse.

Based on condition, PCGS Values range from $30 to $500+ in red uncirculated condition. Red-brown examples are exceedingly lower in worth.

Because the markers may need magnification, we do not recommend buying raw examples from eBay and online auctions. Photos just cannot identify the above markers unless crisp and large. Never pay hundreds of dollars for any coin, especially a purported doubled die, unless holdered.

Here’s an example. No way to verify if this is a DDR.

Mintage of the 2004 cent in Philly was 3,379,600,000; so thousands of these doubled dies should be in bags, rolls and circulation. Coin shops and eBay often sell unopened mint bags like this one, identified by date. My local coin dealer years ago had a $50 bag of 1995 DDO cents! Several years ago I bought an unopened 1982-D cent bag. Great grades but, you guessed it, no 1982-D Small Date 3.1 grams.

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2009-D 25C DDR, FS-801

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If you are wondering why there are not many true doubled dies in modern coinage, there is a very good reason. In 1996, the US Mint replaced multi-press hubbing methods with the single-squeeze process. A highly polished, master steel hub with a raised version of the coin design presses its devices into a cone-shaped planchet in one humongous strike.

Here’s a video of the coin production process.

In effect, this new hubbing process was meant to eliminate embarrassing doubled die errors like the famous 1955 DDO Cent.

Despite the ultra-modern coining machinery, an extreme doubled die occurred with the 2009-D District of Columbia Doubled Die Reverse (DDR) quarter. Reason? Human error.

During production the master hub was misaligned and minted blanks at an uneven angle. Every coin struck by that die had the error. It is listed as the Fivaz-Stanton FS-801 variety.

The dramatic doubling occurred on the reverse with a clear “ELL” split under the name “ELLINGTON.”

The first few black and white keys of the piano also are doubled.

Using a loupe or microscope, you also can see raised outlines Duke Ellington’s hand.

Because the 2009-D Quarter is easily overlooked in pocket change, you might miss this fabled modern doubled die. PCGS CoinFacts missed it in using an MS67 example for the regular coin that also happened to be the doubled die.

Out of the total mintage of 88,800,000 coins, the DDR variety represents a small fraction. Still between 100,000-250,000 are believed to have left the Mint.

Values depend on condition. A circulated example in pocket change usually brings about $10-25 on eBay. Uncirculated and graded gems can being $50; super gems, in the hundreds.

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GreatCollections on fake PCGS coins

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I have known Ian Russell for a quarter century when he worked for Teletrade, an early pioneer in the certified coin market. He served as president of Teletrade from 2005-2010. He then founded GreatCollections Coin Auctions, which I whole-heartedly recommend. Good buyer and seller rates. I have used the site for years.

If you don’t known Russell, you can read his biography by clicking here.

Russell is treasurer of the Anti-Counterfeiting Educational Foundation, which raises awareness about counterfeit coins and bullion and works with authorities to track down sources of fake lots and sales.

I asked Russell to comment on what Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and I have been documenting on eBay and other online venues, i.e., counterfeit coins in fake PCGS holders whose certification numbers open to a Chinese site.

One of the first to note that development was Young, writing for Proxiblog in “Trifecta, CN Counterfeit Coin, Slab and Website.”

Here is a summary:

  • The Elements: The scam consists of three parts: a cheap base-metal counterfeit coin, a slab designed to mimic an authentic PCGS holder, and a fake URL/QR code.
  • The Fake Website: Scanning the QR code on the slab directs victims to a mirror website that falsely “verifies” the fake certification number as legitimate.
  • Prevalence: Investigated by numismatists on Proxiblog Coin News and Views, these scams heavily flood online marketplaces like eBay.

Proxiblog recommended these actions if encountering the sale of fake coins:

  • Verify Directly: Never use the QR code or URL printed on a suspicious slab’s label. Manually search the certification number on the Official PCGS Verification Portal.
  • Compare Markers: Scrutinize the coin’s die markers and weight, as counterfeiters often use stolen images of genuine coins for their listings.
  • Report Fakes: You can read investigative articles by numismatists at the Proxiblog Counterfeit Archive to stay up-to-date on current fakes.

The sheer number of “Not PCGS” counterfeits has reached epidemic proportions. See this video for examples:

Proxiblog recently contacted PCGS President Stephanie Sabin, who provided this statement:

“Since founding PCGS in 1986, our mission has been to protect collectors through leading authentication, grading, and the most secure holders in the industry. However, a powerful brand inevitably attracts counterfeiters, and we treat combating these fraudulent holders as an aggressive, ongoing priority. True security requires staying multiple steps ahead, which is why we continually invest in advanced overt and covert security features across all our product lines. We applaud the dedicated individuals and organizations within our community who work tirelessly to educate collectors on the dangers of counterfeit holders; their vigilance to eliminate altered and fraudulent collectibles is essential to protecting consumers and preserving the integrity of the numismatic marketplace.”

You can read more about PCGS fake holders in “Protecting the Good Name of PCGS from eBay Counterfeits.”

After that article ran, Proxiblog began getting emails and messages about whether their actual PCGS-holdered coins were legitimate. That shows the damage being done to the main reason that holdering companies exist: authentication. Proxiblog viewers also wanted to know what the big auction houses are doing to ensure that coins holdered by PCGS, NGC and other companies contain genuine coins.

So we contacted Russell to find out.

“The rise in counterfeit coins housed in fake PCGS holders has become one of the most serious threats facing the numismatic marketplace today,” Russell says. “At GreatCollections, every coin is carefully reviewed before it is offered for sale, and our team is highly experienced at identifying counterfeit holders, altered labels, and fraudulent verification schemes. Protecting bidders and maintaining confidence in third-party grading are top priorities.”

When questionable material is identified, GreatCollections removes it from consideration regardless of its source. While most consignors are acting in good faith and are often unaware they possess a counterfeit item, Russell says, “we will not offer any coin whose authenticity cannot be fully verified. The integrity of the marketplace depends on strict authentication standards and consistent enforcement.”

Russell is concerned about the growing sophistication of counterfeit holders. This has understandably caused some collectors to question genuine certified coins. “That is why auction houses, grading services, dealers and collectors must remain vigilant and work together to identify and remove counterfeit material whenever it appears. Confidence in certified coins is built on trust, and that trust must be protected.”

Jack D. Young also was among the first to report counterfeit coins in fake PCGS holders with GreatCollection labels. The label on the left side below is fake. Compare it to the real label, right.

Russell says, “We’ve also encountered counterfeit PCGS holders that use fake GreatCollections labels. Ironically, the counterfeiters often print a GreatCollections inventory label inside the sealed PCGS holder, as though it were inserted during the grading process. It’s almost comical, but it also illustrates how far these operations are willing to go to create a false sense of authenticity.”

As counterfeiters continue to refine their methods, Russell recommends reading Proxiblog and other numismatic publications, paying attention to careful examination and buying from reputable sources.

For an inventory of Proxiblog counterfeit articles, click here.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

2006 DDO Lincoln Cent

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The 2006 Lincoln Cent DDO FS-101 is one of the few true doubled dies since 1996 when the US Mint upgraded their machinery with what is called a “Single-Squeeze” hubbing process. The intent was to eliminate doubled dies altogether, but still we can see the method is not entirely fool proof.

The variety has its own PCGS number, meaning if you use it in the submission process you do not have request a special error variety label costing more money.

The key markers are a ghost image of an earlobe:

There is doubling on the date, thicker than regular strike, with noticeable spreading on the “6.”

It’s difficult to see, but there is also some doubling on the lower portion of Lincoln’s beard.

“Liberty” is a main marker, too, exhibiting extra thickness. Note the notch on the “T”:

The error happened when the working die was placed slightly out of alignment. Thousands are out there in rolls and pocket change.

There also is an FS-102 variety, lacking a clear ghost image of the earlobe. Markers are similar.

As you can see, PCGS shows significant values, based on condition, from about $30 in low mint state red to hundreds in super gem.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Ultra Rare 1953-S FBL

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A condition rarity is not associated with mintage but with other factors. Sometimes people neglected to save uncirculated examples, as in the 1884-S Morgan Dollar. The 1927-D Saint-Gaudens Double Eagle had a good mintage of 180,000; but almost all were melted. The 1953-S Franklin half dollar had a mintage of 4,148,000 but suffers from poor strikes due to worn working dies. As such, it is extremely rare to find one with full bell lines. There just wasn’t enough pressure to create the unbroken lines on the liberty bell.

But can strive to find an example with at least some of the lines on the reverse.

Let’s define FBL. The designation requires fully separated, uninterrupted lines at the bottom of the Liberty Bell on the reverse. The lower sets of horizontal lines on the bell must be complete and distinct. To qualify, coins must grade MS-60 or higher, with no major disruptions to the lines, which also must be free from major cuts, heavy marks, or disturbances.

The horizontal lines must be clear and readable. Let’s take a close look this FBL example:

You can find many uncirculated Franklin halves with full bell lines. But the 1953-S is the key date. The dozens of 1953-S halves that earned FBL were struck early in the production run before the dies deteriorated.

While you may not find the ultra rare 1953-S FBL, you might have luck with other San Francisco business strike half dollars, as these also bring premiums.

The San Francisco Mint made half dollars in these years: 1949, 1951, 1952, 1953 and 1954. Each one apart from the rare 1953-S brings a nice premium with FBL.

YEAR1949-S1951-S1952-S1953-S1954-S
MS65$130$70$125$125$50
MS65FBL$475$375$1,050$32,500$225

The San Francisco Mint stopped making half dollars in 1954 so that its machinery could be updated. But you can still assemble a set of 1949-54 halves for a reasonable price. The goal is to get the FBL on 1949-52 and 1954 and a 1953-S half with at least some of the full bell lines.

This PCGS slabbed MS65 1953-S Sold for $100 at Stack’s Bowers. I consider this a score because so many of the lines are evident, apart from the middle.

You can find some with some distinguishable lines on eBay, but they often are overpriced, as this example. I drew the red circle showing this is NOT Full Bell Lines.

You also want to watch what 1953-S half dollars sell for on major auction houses, including GreatCollections, which sold this gem in 2019.

Assembling a set of Franklin halves is easily doable. Try for as many full bell lines as your budget allows.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Counterfeit CC “Doubled Reverse” Morgan Dollars

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By Jack Riley

Prompting this article is a counterfeit 1878-CC that was previously listed to eBay and quickly removed. All 1878cc have B reverses, otherwise known as the “2nd reverse” with parallel arrow feathers (rather than slanted).

As a refresher, here are both kinds.

In addition, the 1878-CC has a different type of mintmark from other CC years, excluding some 1880cc varieties.

Compare mintmarks with the 1879-CC Morgan, which has slanted tail feathers.

Now inspect the 1878-CC coin below.

Looking through my log of documented counterfeit reverses for Morgan Dollars I realize I’ve seen this one a few times. The “Doubled wreath reverse.” If any of these were genuine they would be some of more dramatic doubled dies of the series, which evident by this 1878cc that isn’t the case.

Now to the real meat and potatoes of this article! An 1881-CC that was posted to a Facebook coin group for determination of value and authenticity. Being that 1881-CC has a low mintage of a mere 296,000 coins, there are very few die marriages. Only VAM-2 and VAM-6 has a CC tilted left, clearly this coin doesn’t attribute to either die marriage. (To learn about VAMs, click here.)

It does match the reverse of the previous 1878cc!

Below see a comparison image of both the 1878 and 1881-CC reverses. The “doubled wreath” stands out clearly. Along with a few repeating circulation marks, one being a minor indent on the wreath and another in the field below the right star.

After a lengthy conversation with the individual who owns the coin, they couldn’t come to terms that it was a very modern counterfeit. I’m sure our readers will see this coin is clearly unattributable to a genuine die marriage and matches a known counterfeit.

The best way to guard against buying a counterfeit coin is to purchase an authentic one from a reputable dealer. Barring that, view Jack Young’s Jack Riley’s and my articles on counterfeit coins published by Proxiblog.

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You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Clashed, Vised or Glued?

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Clash marks are valuable, but people often try to mimic them with a vise, pressing two coins together. Other times, for one reason or another, glue creates an impression of one coin on another. Do not bid on any of these until you can tell them apart. As you might imagine, eBay and online auctions often label vise and glue coins as clash marks.

Here are all three:

You can easily distinguish them by looking for specific tells under a loupe or magnifying glass. You want to check if the extra impression is raised or sunken, and whether the lettering is oriented normally or backwards. If backward, you’re looking at a vise or glue coin.

TYPECLASH MARKSVISE COINGLUE COIN
RELIEFRaised DevicesSunken DevicesFlat Layered
ORIENTATIONNormalBackward/ReversedBackward/Reversed
THICKNESSNormalFlat/DistortedThick/Sticky

A die clash happens at the Mint when erroneously the obverse and reverse dies strike each other without a blank planchet between them. The so-called “ghost” image will be raised, not sunken or flatly layered.

Vise coins are created by pressing two coins together with a vise or hammering them to mimic the clashed die. Because of the method, the lettering will be backward, flattened, distorted or damaged, especially by the rims.

A glue coin happens any number of ways when two coins are bonded by an adhesive. When separated, the ghost image appears flat and layered on the other coin.

Often the tone of the coin will be altered with a dried or amber look, as you might anticipate with glue. True, flat and layered can be confused with raised of a die clash. To be sure, dip the coin in acetone and the ghost will dissolve.

Sometimes people use a vise to create weird patterns, thinking those unfamiliar with how coins are minted will consider this an error or variety.

You’ll find many more examples of vise and glue coins on Facebook because few people know how to tell these apart from clashed dies. They find them in rolls, typically, because someone realized this wasn’t a mint error.

Sometimes glue takes strange shapes. Again, you need to know how coins are made to understand how this could never happen at the Mint.

Depending on the condition of the coin and the denomination, because clashed dies, vise jobs and glue coins happen across denominations, values vary from minor examples $30 to major ones in the hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.