Counterfeit 1943 Copper Cents

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As a member of several Facebook coin groups, I see 1943 P/D/S replicas and, on occasion, die struck Chinese counterfeits. Yet many new collectors claim to have found these ultra rarities, believing that they struck it rich. They have been informed by click-bait posts and videos telling viewers that these rarities will turn up in rolls and pocket change.

What turns up are replicas, altered dates, copper plated steel cents and die-struck copper counterfeits.

Approximately 40 copper-alloy cents were accidentally minted across all three U.S. Mints (Philadelphia, Denver, San Francisco) in 1943. The 1943-D is the rarest (1 known), while 1943-S (San Francisco) is exceptionally rare (fewer than 5 known). Some 20+ 1943 cents are said to exist.

Types of Fake Coins

Copper plated zinc cents cost less than $10 on Etsy and other sites. These are replicas, as in the photo below.

Chinese counterfeiters have perfected their craft making fake 1943 P/D/S “copper” cents.

Common production methods include:

  • Striking on Non-Magnetic Blanks: Counterfeiters use copper or bronze blanks to strike fake coins. Unlike genuine 1943 steel cents that are magnetic, these fakes will not stick to a magnet as if genuine copper.
  • Transfer Die Technology: Counterfeiters often use transfer dies, taking a genuine 1943 steel cent and pressing it into a heated, metal to create an exact negative image of the coin. Then they strike copper or bronze copies.
  • Copper Plating: Counterfeiters also take common 1943 steel pennies and coating them in a thin layer of copper. These, however, will still be magnetic.
  • Date Alteration: Some forgers take genuine copper pennies from 1945, 1948, or 1949 and manually rework the last digit into a “3.”

The latest threat involves advanced operations in China with minting equipment on par with the US Mint.

Simple detection methods include using

  1. A magnet. If the coin sticks to it, it isn’t copper.
  2. A coin scale to see if your specimen weighs 3.1 grams. (Steel cents weigh 2.7 grams.)
  3. A lupe to view the date and to detect if it has been altered.

Here’s an example of a 1948 cent altered to look like a 1943 copper cent weighing 3.1 grams and passes the magnet test:

1943 Copper Cent

A more advanced method to detect counterfeits concerns die markers.

This person claims to have found a 1943 copper cent below. The date on genuine copper and steel cents are the same. Also, on the 1943 cent, the word “liberty” is strongly struck without die deterioration. Here is his counterfeit:

Here’s how to check using die markers:

As you can see, the “9” in the counterfeit is lower than the “9” of the steel an genuine cent.

1943-D Copper Cent

Only one 1943-D Copper Cent has been found. Again, the market is flooded with thousands of replicas and counterfeits.

A genuine 1943-D copper cent would have the exact same date position as a 1943-D steel cent. Because both coins were struck using the same dies, the alignment and shape of the digits must be identical. 

This fake was posted on Facebook:

You can see that the date and mintmark differ from the sole authentic one:

The counterfeit is also affirmed when compared with the date and mintmark position of the 1943-D Steel Cent:

1943-S Copper Cent

Genuine 1943-S copper cents are very rare, with fewer than 5 known. Look for faint doubling on the date and die scratches near the motto and wheat stalks.

Another die marker on some 1943-S copper cents is a tilted “S.”

Odds of finding any of these ultra rarities are minimal. Consider the tens of thousands of replicas, altered dates, plated steel cents and die-struck counterfeits as opposed to the handful of genuine rarities that actually have been slabbed. Nevertheless, if you still believe you have one of the dozen or so lost genuine 1943 copper cents, send to PCGS, CAC, ANACS or NGC for the verdict.

If you like posts like this, subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Fake CC and P mint Double Eagles

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By Jack Riley

Counterfeiters aren’t numismatists. They often use incorrect design types that are impossible for a given coin and do not understand how third party grading services holder the coins they certify. This example may take the cake! A counterfeit 1892-CC $20 Gold piece in a fake PCGS holder. Not just any holder, a holder pedigreed to D.L. Hansen!

Let’s view the counterfeit example compared to the genuine one below that from Hansen’s collection.

When you compare the two, it is very clear that they are not the same coin. One can see the CC position is incorrect along with a large lump on the ribbon.

The “Family” is likely very extensive and many dates have been noted sharing this common reverse. Additional images shared below are from an 1891-CC coin as well as an 1893-CC. These were recently shared to a large Facebook group where they got mixed reviews.

Now to the connection between the common reverses. This 1882-CC shares the “common reverse.” The obverse is very distinct as well for this date. The 1882 date was interchanged with both P and CC mint reverses. Noteworthy: the surface lump above Liberty’s head, spike protruding from the bridge of the nose, and a raised line under the date.

Interesting occurrence with the Philadelphia reverse is that it was later tooled to repair the denticles. The first two images show a depression along with the deformation of the denticles at approximately K12.

The next two images show the deformed denticles but no indentation within them.

“Common” P reverse

Closeup images of markers include:

  • Deformed Denticles with a depression, later was repaired
  • Spike through “C”
  • Small field dot above “T”

“Common” CC reverse

Closeup image of repeating marks include:

  • CC centered above denomination
  • Small chip above “DOLLARS”

If you purchase a counterfeit coin, especially one as expensive as a $20 gold one, contact the seller for a refund. If the seller refuses to accept a return for a counterfeit coin, immediately initiate a dispute with the payment platform (eBay, PayPal, or credit card company) for an “item not as described,” as counterfeit items are illegal to sell. Document the fraud with professional authentication, and if necessary, report the seller to the U.S. Secret Service or local law enforcement.

If a dispute cannot be resolved, and you report the fraud to the U.S. Secret Service, you may be required to turn the coin over to authorities. In any case, never attempt to re-sell the coin, even if you disclose that it is a counterfeit.

If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley, John Lorenzo and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other venues. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Slabbing Common Coins

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Many veteran hobbyists recommend holdering coins only if they are valuable enough without considering other reasons listed here.

True, the cost to grade can be prohibitive for some collectors. Top companies charge anywhere from $25-38 per coin in addition to fees for membership, handling and mailing, with additional fees for error coins, varieties, special labels or quicker turnaround times.

If cost is not a factor, you might consider holdering a coin for reasons other than inherent value.

Authenticity

A slab provides assurance that a coin is genuine, reducing the risk of purchasing a counterfeit. China exports hundreds of thousand fake coins each year to the United States, especially ones with a Carson City mintmark. If you holder the coin with PCGS, NGC, ANACS, CAC or ICG, you will have a unique barcode or serial number, allowing collectors to verify the coin’s details. Additionally, PCGS and other companies embed security chips to guard against counterfeiting.

Storage

Slabs are sonically sealed in hard plastic, protecting coins from physical damage, such as scratches and drops, as well as environmental damage. Companies also sell containers for compact storage. What’s more, you can share your love of the hobby with family and friends, letting them hold the slabs without your worrying about the coins being improperly handled.

NGC offers some of the most advanced coin holders in a range of sizes to fit virtually every coin ever struck. The company writes, “Designed for long-term preservation and protection, the NGC holders are comprised of high-quality inert materials” with security features. “Collectors, dealers and even the Smithsonian Institution trust NGC holders to protect their most treasured rarities.”

Photography

Top holdering companies also provide photos of coins, sometimes for an additional fee. This is especially important for toned coins. For example, PCGS does a fine job enhancing the rainbow of colors that grace the patina. Photos are important if you keep your collection in a bank box or live somewhere else (i.e. a college student away from home) allowing you to see your coins when and where ever you wish.

PCGS TrueView images are perfect for toned coins like this:

Family

A “family” of coins share common design elements, denominations, mintmarks or thematic characteristics within a series. For instance, you may want to collect all five 1878 Morgan dollars or W-mintmark Quarters or perhaps an example of various errors or varieties, as in the seven 1982 cents or 1942-45 silver war nickels. In these cases, a slab’s labeling is important as you assemble the family of your choice.

Set Assemblies and Registries

A complete date and mint mark set of Morgan Silver Dollars (1878–1921) usually contains close to 100 coins. Because there are so many, some hobbyists prefer year sets. Other assemble sets of a specific mintmark, such as all the coins minted in San Francisco or Carson City. A date and mintmark set of Peace Silver Dollars (1921–1935) consists of 24 coins. Regardless of the set in question, collectors may include a lesser value coin in a holder merely to complete the set in question.

Veteran hobbyists also may participate in set registry competitions, again requiring every coin or variety in the series. One of the most popular PCGS set registries are “low-ball” ones featuring the most worn coins.

Selling

It is often easier to sell, trade, or auction a coin that is already certified, particularly online or to collectors who cannot inspect it in person. Some large auction companies such as GreatCollections or Heritage may require you to holder your coins before they will list them in their catalogs. If you holder with PCGS, NGC or CAC, your coins can be sold sight unseen because of the consistency and quality of the grading.

GreatCollections even notes certification in his banner: “Certified Coin and Paper Money Auctions.”\

Provenance

Serious hobbyists often are concerned about provenance of specific rarities. But even damaged or heavily worn coins may be family heirlooms, such as a grandfather’s “pocket piece.” A coin with deep personal history can be preserved in a “perfect” state by slabbing it, even if it is not especially valuable.

In the past, family members might have passed down coins that they wore as jewelry. This was especially popular in the 19th Century. Here’s a perfect candidate for a slabbed personal heirloom, an 1885 20th Anniversary medal commemorating Abraham Lincoln’s death.

Many collectors prefer raw coins to slabbed ones because they want to hold history. There certainly is a place for that. Just keep some of the low-ball Morgan dollars, for instance, so friends and children can feel the heft of the silver.


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Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

What’s My Coin Worth?

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There are many ways to figure the worth of a coin. Follow this step-by-step method, answering these questions along the way:

  • Is it certified?
  • Do you know denomination, series, strike?
  • Do you know the mintmark?
  • Do you know the Sheldon Scale?
  • Can you identify your coin on the Sheldon Scale?
  • Can you spot flaws affecting value?
  • Are you ready to estimate value now?
  • Do you know how to establish silver melt?

Is it certified?

If you have a coin certified by PCGS, NGC, ANACS, CAC and ICG, simply go to their verification sites and input the certification number on the label. Here are links:

Example:

If you have a coin holdered by another company, consider the coin inside “raw” or unholdered.

Do you know denomination, series, strike?

You need to identify these features, which every coin has:

  1. Denomination
    Definition: The face value of a coin, or the specific amount of money it is meant to represent.
    Example: Common U.S. circulating denominations include 5 cents (nickel), 10 cents (dime), and 25 cents (quarter).
  2. Series
    Definition: A series is the complete set of a specific coin design, minted over a period of years, usually including all dates and mint marks.
    Example: Lincoln Cent Series (1909–Present): Includes every date/mint combination of the Lincoln penny.
  3. Strike
    Definition: Refers to the method of manufacturing used to create the coin.
    Types of Strike:
    • Circulation Strike (Business Strike): Coins made for everyday commerce, usually produced quickly in high volumes.
    • Proof Strike: Coins made for collectors, typically with higher pressure, multiple hits, and polished dies to create a mirror-like field and frosted design.
    • Special Mint Strike (SMS) / Burnished: Specific, high-quality finishes used for special sets.

Do you know the mintmark?

These are mintmarks for US coins identifying the facility of manufacture:

P – Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: The primary U.S. Mint. Most coins from Philadelphia historically had no mint mark, but the “P” now appears on most denominations except the penny.
D – Denver, Colorado: Operating since 1906, this mark is found on most modern circulating coins.
S – San Francisco, California: Since 1975, primarily produces high-quality “proof” sets for collectors.
W – West Point, New York: Established as a mint in 1988, it mostly produces bullion and special collector coins.

Historic U.S. Mint Marks: These letters appear on older coins from facilities that are no longer in operation.
C – Charlotte, North Carolina: Produced gold coins only from 1838 to 1861.
D – Dahlonega, Georgia: Also produced gold coins only from 1838 to 1861 (not to be confused with the modern Denver “D”).
O – New Orleans, Louisiana: Struck gold and silver coins intermittently from 1838 to 1909.
CC – Carson City, Nevada: Famous for silver dollars, operating from 1870 to 1893.

Once you know the denomination, series and strike, you can go to PCGS CoinFacts to find the location of the mintmark.

Do you know the Sheldon Scale?

The Sheldon Scale is a 70-point numerical system to determine a coin’s condition and market value, ranging from 1 (Poor) to 70 (Perfect Mint State).

There are two main types of condition: circulated and uncirculated. Numbers 1–59 (Circulated), from poor to almost uncirculated.

Intermediate grades are Poor, About Good, Good, Very Good, Fine, Very Fine, Extra Fine, About or Almost Uncirculated, Uncirculated.

Here is a nifty chart for numbers and condition.

Can you identify your coin on the Sheldon Scale?

Identifying the condition is subjective, even for veterans; but you can come close if you compare your coin to the denomination, series and strike on PCGS Photograde, which provides photographs that you can use for comparison.

Example:

You have to compare obverse and reverse, but for purposes here, we’ll just do obverse.

Underestimate when you compare your coin to one on Photograde, adjusting for personal bias. In this case, you may be tempted to think your coin is almost uncirculated. But a strict comparison puts it in the Extra Fine category, somewhere between Very Fine 35 and XF45. Let’s go with XF45

Can you identify flaws affecting value?

There are dozens of possible flaws on a coin that lower value or prevent it from being “straight graded” (a numerical score). Here are major ones:

Cleaning: Harsh abrasive cleaning or polishing that damages the surface.

Environmental Damage: Corrosion, excessive toning, or verdigris.

Physical Damage: Major scratches, rim dents, or metal movement.

Altered Surfaces: Applying substances like wax, putty, or lacquer to hide flaws.

Questionable Color: Artificial re-toning, often used to make a coin look more attractive.

Filed Rims: Rims that have been filed to smooth out dents or damage. 

Here is an example of environmental damage:

For other illustrated examples, see “Common Flaws That Hobbyists Often Miss.”

Any one of the above flaws will reduce the value of your coin, depending on severity. In many cases, that is 25-50% of estimated worth.

Are you ready to estimate value now?

You know the denomination, series, strike and mintmark. You know the Sheldon Scale and have estimated the grade using PCGS Photograde. You eliminated possible flaws and think your coin can be straight graded.

Let’s continue with the 1900 Morgan Dollar at XF40:

Go to PCGS CoinFacts for retail and auction values for such a coin.

The retail value here is $85 (due at the time in part to the high price of silver). But only 20 have been slabbed at that grade, meaning it probably wasn’t worth the cost of grading. That is confirmed because there are no recent auction sales listed at that low grade.

Your coin is silver melt.

Do you know how to establish silver melt?

Here is the formula:

Multiply the item’s total weight (in troy ounces) by its purity percentage, then multiply that result by the current spot price of silver.

Again, let’s use that 1900 Morgan Dollar.

Morgan dollars (1878–1904, 1921) contain 90% silver and 10% copper, with a total weight of 26.73 grams, resulting in 0.77344 troy ounces of pure silver per coin. 

The current market value for one troy ounce of silver, which changes frequently, happens to be $109 (during a spike in that precious metal). Thus, the silver melt value of your Morgan is 0.77344 times $109 = $84.30.

Keep in mind that coin dealers usually only buy 10-15% under silver melt. So you’re looking at about $71, depending on your buyer.

If you like posts like this, subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

An extensive “Family” of counterfeit Washington Quarters

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By Jack Riley

This article stems from a “copy” stamped key date 1932-D Washington Quarter. This abides by the Hobby Protection Act and isn’t to deceive anyone. As we know, counterfeiters don’t abide by the law!

The next example was sent to me by a friend. Highlighted obverse markers match the previous “copy.”

An example surfaced on eBay from a rather large seller. After a brief discussion with them showing this to be a counterfeit they removed the listing. The obverse shares a couple repeating marks, but we see additional ones to be used in the future. The reverse is a match to the example shared to be by a fellow collector.

Another internet venue provides us images of a 1932-S that shares this “common obverse.” Highlighted in green are repeating marks for this reverse.

It isn’t only key date coins that counterfeiters target! This 1936-S shares the same reverse as the aforementioned 1932s.

Keep in mint that shopping venues Temu and Etsy sell thousands of replicas, some die struck, further eroding the hobby market.

It is also important to learn die markers for the 1932-D and S key dates. Click here for that.

f you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other venues. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Types I and II 1956 Proof Halves

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The 1956 Franklin Half Dollar was struck with two different reverse designs, Type I and Type II, concerning the small eagle on the reverse. Type I features four distinct feathers to the left of the perch, while the Type II shows only three visible feathers. Both types were minted, with Type I used for both circulation strikes and proofs, and Type II primarily used on proofs.

The reason for this post is the value of Type I proofs. This design was exclusively for business strikes. That makes proofs with this design valuable. For instance, in mint state PR64, type I retails for $210 while Type II goes for $44.

As you can see, identifying Type I will bring huge value that only increases with if cameo or deep cameo. At gem PR65, Type I cameo retails for $225 and deep cameo, $975; compare to Type II, cameo PR65, $67, and Type II, deep cameo, $165.

Here’s how to tell, compliments PCGS CoinFacts:

You can count those feathers as die markers. But an easier way is to note how Type I has a poor strike, not showing the complete feathers:

That’s where to look.

The best way to find Type I is via proof sets, which typically go for $50:

You will need magnification on sets like the one above to see if the offering is Type I or II.

You can find Type I on eBay because the seller doesn’t know what he has:

If you use a photo app to expand the photo, you’ll see this is Type I:

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Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Die Markers for 1932-D and S Quarters

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The 1932-D Quarter (436,800 minted) and 1932-S Quarter (408,000, lowest mintage in the series) are a coveted pair for collectors. The 1932 Philadelphia Quarter has a mintage of 5,404,000 with no mintmark, of course, on the reverse, making it a target for added mintmark fakes.

In this article, we provide die markers so that you can check to ensure that your quarter is authentic.

These key dates are avidly sought by collectors, with the D and S quarters especially rare in uncirculated condition. Compare values compiled by PCGS CoinFacts:

1932-D Die Markers

The most obvious die marker concerns the filled mint mark (“D”) with visible serifs and bloated appearance, even in uncirculated grade:

Here’s how the mintmark looks in more common circulated grades (note you can see still serifs).

You should also look for die cracks on the reverse, especially near the eagle’s left wing or the motto “PLURIBUS.” Many but not all display this.

Almost all examples in very fine through uncirculated should have well-defined devices. (If mushy, you probably have a base metal China counterfeit.) Because of the low mintage, a very small number of working dies were used to mint this rarity. Research suggests only two obverse dies and two reverse dies were used.

Despite the low mintage, there are no major recognized doubled die or repunched mint mark varieties for the 1932-D, unlike other years in the series. So if you see an distinct RPM, again, you may have a counterfeit.

Another marker is a crack running from the hairline across Washington’s head on the obverse.

1932-S Die Markers

You may encounter difficulty identifying die markers for the 1932-S Washington Quarter as they primarily involve die cracks and scratches on both sides, with a key reverse marker being a crack at the word “PLURIBUS.”

Another marker is a scratch or die crack above the ‘3’ in the date, helping to distinguish genuine coins from counterfeits.

Counterfeit 1932 D and S

Identifying fakes in both quarters, look for casting bubbles (1. below), undefined rim (2.), wrong date placement (3.) and overall mushy appearance (4.)

On 1932-D, you’ll see a sharper mintmark on fake and added mintmark examples. Compare the “D” of the counterfeit quarter (left) with the genuine (right).

China has flooded the market with die struck base and silver counterfeits. High-quality Chinese counterfeiting operations produce 500,000 silver coins (including 1932 D and S) per month. Numismatic Guaranty Company (NGC) reports that thousands of fake 1932-D and 1932-S quarters are circulating.

If you are not an expert grader and are buying or bidding on raw coins, you should bypass raw 1932-D and S Quarters and buy ones graded by major holdering companies.

If you like posts like this, please go to our counterfeit archive with reports from Jack Riley, Jack D. Young, John Lorenzo and Michael Bugeja. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has hundreds of followers on Facebook Coin Groups. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Odds of Finding Ultra Rarities

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Clickbait social media sites have tricked new coin collectors into believing they can find ultra rarities in pocket change and bank rolls. What are the odds?

We’ll calculate those odds later. But here’s the list of what you in all likelihood will never find:

  • 1974-D Aluminum Cent
  • 1943-D Copper Cent
  • 1944-S Steel Cent
  • 1982-D Small Date 3.1 grams
  • 1943-S Copper Cent
  • 1944-D Steel Cent
  • 1983/83-D Copper Cent
  • 2000 Sacagawea Mule
  • 1944 Steel Cent
  • 1943 Copper Cent
  • 1969-S DDO Cent
  • 1971-D DDO Cent

Social media scammers also proclaim “no mintmark” coins are rarities. No mintmark means minted in Philadelphia; missing mintmark is the rarity. Again, later in the article, we will show you just how many of these rarities are believed minted:

  • 1968 No S Proof Dime
  • 1990 No S Lincoln Cent
  • 1970 No S Roosevelt Proof Dime
  • 1975 No S Roosevelt Proof Dime
  • 1983 No S Roosevelt Proof Dime
  • 1971 No S Jefferson Proof Nickel
  • 1976 No S Eisenhower Proof Dollar
  • 1982 No P Mintmark

But not to despair! There are hundreds of findable rarities in rolls and pocket change. They won’t make you rich, but will make you a coin collector–a true hobbyist–who knows how to spend time wisely. We’ll cover those later.

Clickbait Social Media

Scammers on Facebook and YouTube foster the belief you can get rich and retire with pocket change.

Here’s a sample YouTube video:

There are only 5 known 1943-S Copper Cents. People have been checking their change and bank rolls for 70 years. To calculate odds of your finding one, factor this: some 125 million Americans consider themselves coin collectors to some degree. Twenty percent of Millennials, or 14.5 million, have taken a keen interest in numismatics.

New collectors have purchased coin microscopes and visit TikTok, Google, YouTube, eBay, Facebook and other social media venues, believing they can strike it rich by checking their change at the grocery store or making several trips to the bank for rolls.

Now consider the past 50-70 years of Americans collecting coins and looking for ultra rarities like 1943 copper cents or 1944 steel ones. What do you think the odds are of your finding one of them?

Now factor the hundreds of thousands of fake ultra rarities exported to the US by China. These often find themselves in rolls and auctions. Etsy, an American company flooded with Chinese sellers, and Temu, a Chinese company, also have saturated the coin market place with replicas. See this article for examples.

AI Calculates Odds

In addition to being a numismatist, I am a distinguished professor (actual title) emeritus at an institution of science and technology. My research specialty is artificial intelligence. I fed data into several sites and databases to calculate the odds of your finding one of these treasures.

In the table below, you will see those top 12 rarest coins and their values along with the odds of your finding one in pocket change or bank rolls.

Brace yourself:

Social media is undermining the hobby along with Chinese counterfeiters who count on your not knowing die markers for rarities. If you don’t, you can spend thousands on replicas.

Some examples:

Just consider the 1943-S restrike copper cent offerings on Etsy:

eBay scammers buy these restrikes and then list them as ultra rarities. Here’s an example:

You also can find “missing mintmark” rarities in online auctions.

Missing Mintmarks

The Philadelphia Mint did not use a mint mark on coins until 1980, with the exception of the 1979 Susan B. Anthony dollar, 1942-45 35% silver Jefferson war nickels, and the 2017 Lincoln 225th anniversary cent.

Here’s another table about how many missing mint mark coins are believed to have been released into circulation.

Here are tactics of counterfeiters and scammers:

  • Altering Normal Coins: Forgers might take a regular dime and try to remove the mintmark.
  • Tooling: Look for signs of filing or polishing where the mintmark should be.
  • Fake “No-S” Proofs: A common tactic is to take a regular business strike (like a 1970-S) and try to remove the ‘S’ to pass it off as the rare proof version.

If you would like to learn more about the above missing mint mark coins, click here for a full article.

Findable Rarities

There are hundreds of varieties and error coins that hobbyists still can find in pocket change in bank rolls and that are holdered by PCGS, NGC and ANACS. For a comprehensive list, click here.

Coin collecting is in part about value and investment. The difference between now and past decades is where new hobbyists are getting misinformation. In the past, most numismatists embraced the hobby because of the history, art, culture and metallurgy of coins, medals and paper money.

That is why Proxiblog recommends these three articles for new hobbyists:

HOW TO COLLECT COINS *** HOW TO GRADE COINS *** HOW TO SELL COINS

If you like posts like this, subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

“Long Nock”: Check Your 1878-S Morgans

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The 1878-S Morgan has a mintage of 9,774,000 and is valuable in higher grades, but a small detail on an otherwise even silver melt coin is a coveted variety.

Let’s define “Nock,” an uncommon word, except for archers, whose definition is a notch at either end of a bow for holding the string.

So right off the word leads us to the quiver of arrows held by the eagle on the reverse.

Morgan 1878-S “Long Nock” coin refers an extended length of the arrow shaft (the “nock”) in the eagle’s talon. This variety is a result of a design variation used on the first set of dies delivered to the San Francisco Mint.

Let’s compare a regular 1878-S reverse with a “long nock” one with this photo from PCGS CoinFacts:

The “long nock” feature extends the tip of the central arrow.

This variety has several specific variations in the VAM directory (named after the directory compiled by Leroy Van Allen and A. George Mallis):

These varieties happened because of an urgent need to produce Morgan dollars at various mints in 1878. The first 10 pairs of dies for the San Francisco Mint had the “long nock” design. When the US Mint asked engraver George T. Morgan to revise the design, reducing the relatively high relief (shortening die life), the nock was shortened and the number of tail feathers on the eagle were reduced from eight to seven.

Value for this variety is high but few ever exceed almost uncirculated levels. The top pop at PCGS is AU53.

At Very Fine 20, the coin retails for $275 and increases by about $100 each Sheldon grade higher up until AU53.

Nevertheless, you will find 1878-S Morgans everywhere–even in slabbed coins–with the owner or holdering company missing the variety. (If you submit a coin without identifying and paying for a variety, that designation will not be on the label.)

Happy hunting!

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