That same seller also sold 2 mixed rolls of small cents faced with an apparent 1857 Flying Eagle cent to a Face Book friend; it turned out the FE is a known counterfeit, and the new owner posted them and the link to my Coin Week article about them!
The OP noted the counterfeit “tells” for this style counterfeit on his example (circled in red) referencing the Coin Week article attributions.
Bottom image of the OP’s FB post on the subject
Image from the referenced Coin Week article showing other examples with the matching marks:
While reviewing the article for images (I often go back to my own published article for reference while researcher subject “coins”!) I noticed the OP had posted a comment which I responded to.
So, purchased in 2023 and now aware as a result of the article! Ironically the article was published in 2023 as well…
Comments from the subject Coin Week article
2023 and the seller is still “at large” ! I immediately found another listing from him for a similar roll, documented his images and then worked to “win” the auction.
Recent identical eBay roll listing- I won!
So all I had to do was wait for this to be delivered. I was already planning how to document what it is once in-hand, taking images as I worked to uncover the detail I thought would match my friends, but that turned to be too easy a thought…
I was initially pretty confident I would see the “Bad T” in UNITED, but that documented attribution point wasn’t there!
Image from my microscope of my FE in the roll
OK, so what, did the seller actually slip a genuine example in the roll? My plan was failing so I just carefully unwrapped the whole roll and then imaged the contents:
And the FE? 1st thing of note is he is using repeated stock images; mine was positioned differently relative to the roll:
Listing image of the roll on the left, received on the right- date not apparent
And once removed from the roll I immediately recognized it after digging through my article:
Coin received is actually the 2nd counterfeit documented in the article, as noted:
Additional article images
So, now again confident he slipped a counterfeit into the roll I decided to send him a message. My previous attempts on the 1893-O Morgan failed because he doesn’t accept messages but apparently does when a current purchased item is linked.
Yeah, right. … But he did immediately refund my purchase price without involving eBay- a surprise for sure given all of his past responses to negative feedback given.
And he then listed another one, but I found I am now banned by him for any future listings.
Keeping it real, Jack.
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When looking through my great grandfather’s coin collection I discovered several medals. For those who are not familiar with me or my previous articles, my great grandfather was a bartender in Brooklyn, NY, around 1900. At that time, Ellis Island was admitting people from all over the world, and thus, he took payment of different currencies. I’m sure he also traded and perhaps purchased items that led to a vast collection containing hundreds of coins and medals which hold stories of the past.
First, let’s address what is a medal. We know from winning a contest in school or watching the Olympics that medals can show achievement. We understand today that a gold medal is the most important, then silver and bronze (due to metal value). We know medals have been made throughout history as recognition, often depicting a person or event and can be minted for one person or for the masses. We see this today in the US mint where medals are sold to commemorate the 250th Anniversary of the United States of America.
Medals belong to the genre Exonumia, with medals serving as a major category of this classification. Medals fall into these subcategories: military medals, commemorative medals, souvenir medallions, and, at times, challenge coins.
They can also be contemporary and express social concerns. One of the top medal artists is sculptor Heidi Wastweet who also has served in the Citizens Coinage Advisory Committee of the U.S. Mint. Here is one of her popular medals, “Abbreviated Liberty,” about the power of free speech and the muzzling thereof. Proxiblog publisher Michael Bugeja has the 1st of 40 strikes.
But what about historic medals? Why are they so special? First, expert engravers were needed to work by hand, and perfection was necessary. Second, as Betts notes “medals are original documents in metal.” They are story tellers and tangible connections to the past. They are art, but unlike a historic painting or sculpture in its original form, medals can be reproduced, although die deterioration (having been struck several times) will cause the quality of later medals to diminish. Some medals were only struck once, or a few times, so let’s talk about mine.
I came across this large 67mm, well struck bronze medal that captivated me with its beautiful details and size. After finding out (through the internet) that this was from the Netherlands, I found information was scarce. That is until I found a picture of my medal in gold on the website of Massachusetts Historical Society located in Boston. The website states “This gold medal was presented by the States-General of the United Provinces of Holland to John Adams upon his departure as minister on 6 March 1788. Adams was the first envoy to Holland from the United States. This medal is believed to be the only known 18th century diplomatic medal presented to a United States minister.”
As I examined the pictures, I could see the same engravers mark on my medal.
John Adams’ Gold Medal
Collection of The Massachusetts Historical Society
I eagerly contacted the Historical Society by phone and explained what I had. To my surprise, Susanna from MHS Library Reader Services, said they were interested in the history of mine, as they were identical apart from the metal. I was asked to send an email the details of my medal with pictures. I was delighted to get a response within a week from the Curator of Art & Artifacts, Anne, with information on the engraver and manufacturer, as well as other interesting articles and John Quincy Adams journal entries.
Details and Engraver
The medal’s engraver, Nicolaas van Swinderen, was born in November 1705 in The Hague. His work began in 1720 as a prominent engraver and medalist. He lived on The Lutherse Burgwal (Lutheran Canal/Street) in The Hague, specializing in engraving and cutting dies. His works were often struck in the workshops of other medalists.
Over one hundred of his medals are on display in the Rijksmusum, the Teylers museum, and in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Although there are several medals like mine (and Adams), I could not find another identical. It is unknown when and who this medal was originally made for, however, you will see that his medal dies remained active even after his death in 1760. The Commemorative Medal given to John Adams was struck using dies from van Swinderen in 1788 by Willen de Koning, a manufacturing jeweler, as Swinderen had passed away 28 years earlier.
Details:
Size: 67 mm
The obverse shows the arms and supporters of the United Provinces (lion wild with sword in shield, surmounted by crown) with the motto, “CONCORDIA RES PARVÆ CRESCUNT”. This translates: “By concord small things increase” and signed “N VS” above PARVÆ.
The reverse depicts the arms of the House of Orange-Nassau, surrounded by seven provinces, entwined with leaves and orange fruit. The motto, “DISCORDIA MAXIMÆ DILABUNTUR” translates to “By discord great things are destroyed”.
Edge: Plain, raised with integral suspension loop. Assay stamp on loop (Betts)
John Adams
(americanacorner.com)
John Adams retired from 2nd Continental Congress in November 1777 and soon went overseas. After spending time in Britain and France, Adams sought American Diplomacy in the Netherlands to secure recognition of American independence. Adams also had the job of obtaining a loan which would provide much needed assistance to the financially strapped colonies and help establish credit for the young nation.
During the 1700’s the Dutch Republic had internal political stress, but it maintained peace. The Stadholder (Dutch: Hoog-Mogenden) referred to the States-General of the United Netherlands. The Princes of Orange held this office and were referred to as “their Mighty Mightiness”. The Hague served as administrative seat of government for the Dutch Republic. Until 1810, when Amsterdam officially became capital. (Britanica)
On October 8, 1782, Adams and Dutch representatives successfully concluded the Dutch American Treaty of Amity and Commerce, primarily dealing with trade, shipping, and other commercial ventures. Adams had also made a successful application for a three-million-guilder (Dutch currency) loan. This would help fund the American Revolution.
In 1787 Adams requested to close his commission and return to America. The president of the assembly (De Wassenaar Caywyke) brought this to their High Mightiness (William V) who granted this resolution. The following is an excerpt from an account regarding the medal:
Whereupon, it having been considered, it seemed good, and was hereby ordered, that leave be taken of the said Mr. Adams, at the same time declaring that his person and conduct have been agreeable to their High Mightiness, and that the usual present of a chain and medal of gold, of the value of thirteen hundred florins, be transmitted to him; the jeweler de Koning having it in charge to prepare the same forthwith.
Passing Down Adams Medal – John Quincy Adams Diary Entries
John Quincy Adams, the son of John Adams, had quite an extensive collection of diaries. The following are excerpts regarding John Adams passing his medal down to his grandson:
27 Sept. 1819: [My father (President John Adams) called me and my son John, who was going away, into his bedchamber,] and gave him a gold medal and chain, which at the close of his Mission to the Netherlands was presented to him by the then existing States-General. My father told my son John, and directed me to remember and witness that he gave him this, rather than his gold-watch, which was a trinket, for the sake of his name; because it was John Adams; and that it should be disposed of for his benefit according to my directions.
Oct. 1819: I told John what I proposed to do with the medal and chain given him by his grandfather. Which is to keep the medal as a memorial of the giver, and to send the chain to the Mint, and have its proceeds vested in Stocks yielding interest, till he shall come of age: with this arrangement, John said he should be satisfied.
In Conclusion
Historical coins, tokens, and medals are fascinating in the history they hold and stories they tell. Although I will never know for whom my bronze medal was struck or where it came from, it led me down a path to history. I certainty did not expect that my research would lead to John Adams and his family, who had a tremendous impact on Early America. I found working with The Massachusetts Historical Society to be a wonderful experience. I will continue to dig further into this medal because I would love to know the origin.
References
“#7 Johnny Goes Dutch.” Hollandsociety.org, 2024, hollandsociety.org/2024/01/7-johnny-goes-dutch/.
“Adams Papers Digital Edition – Massachusetts Historical Society.” Masshist.org, www.masshist.org/publications/adamspapers/index.php/volume/PJA16/pageid/PJA16p265.
Betts, Charles Wyllys. American Colonial History Illustrated by Contemporary Medals. New York: Scott Stamp and Coin, 1894, pp. 275–276.
C.F.A.; Ed. The Works of John Adams. Vol. VIII, Boston, Mass, Little Brown and Co., 1853, pp. 482–483.
The “dropped star” error–technical name, “Struck-Through Dropped Filling”–is easy to detect because a star-shaped device appears in the wrong place. The error, authenticated by PCGS, exists in a 2024-D Kennedy Half Dollar.
Some believe the PCGS example is a “one of one” find, meaning, there may be no other similar error in the series. Or there just be one or more in different places. Here’s why.
The dropped star happens when grease or metal shavings fill the device. The striking continues and eventually releases the plug (also called “mint goop”) so it is struck on a subsequent planchet.
Think of the process as clogging and compacting on one planchet, dislodging and then being struck on a new planchet.
In this Kennedy half case, the star was ejected and appears on his profile. That’s interesting! The star in question was on the reverse and the plug stamped the star on the obverse of another planchet!
Here is a close-up photographed by Jeffrey Flynt who wrote about the find for PCGS.
Flynt has an optimistic outlook for error finders. He writes, “My journey from a routine coin roll hunt to a PCGS-certified ‘Dropped Star Obverse’ discovery coin has been an incredible experience. It highlights that even in the age of modern coinage, exciting and significant finds are still possible if you look closely.”
Keep in mind that the dropped star can also be a dropped number or letter as happened on other coins. For instance, a 2007-D Idaho quarter had an extra incuse “R” between the “R” and “T” in “LIBERTY.” Ken Potter, one of our top numismatists, wrote about this for Numismatic News.
He states, “Up until a few years ago the Dropped Letter error type was rarely encountered but with the Mint’s schedule for striking coins tighter than ever, it appears that routine die cleaning rarely occurs anymore.”
Here’s an example of a 1960-D dropped letter authenticated by PCGS:
Here’s a dropped “D” on a 1976-D Bicentennial Quarter.
Error and variety hunters have patience. They may look for anomalies on thousands of coins before finding an dropped device, number or letter. Unfortunately, there are fake added mintmarks and devices just as there are counterfeit and replica examples. Also, there is PAREIDOLIA, the tendency to perceive images in visual patterns, often leading to misidentification of coin errors.
For instance, “Daniel from CoinHELPu” questions whether PCGS made a mistake labeling this a dropped star. He believes the mark just may look like a star.
Proxiblog will keep monitoring this error, publishing new authenticated finds.
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Key date coins are commonly counterfeited and should be viewed with scrutiny. This subject example of a 1916-D Mercury Dime surfaced and what many would call a “one glance” counterfeit.
The mintmark punch for the 1916-D is easily recognizable, along with 4 mintmark positions for genuine coins. This clearly isn’t a genuine mintmark and as one can tell by the surface quality the coin itself is a counterfeit.
This is one seen routinely through various Facebook groups, you would be hard pressed not to see one of these shared weekly. It isn’t just the key dates targeted (although that is the primary targets). Image comparison of a 1916-D, 1921-D, and 1939-D pictured below. A common reverse with a “bad” mintmark and small surface lump to the right of E.
Common markers in Red:
Surface lump to the right of E of ONE
Deformed mintmark shape and placement
Markers In Green indicate features not present on all examples. In this case two cracks running though U in “UNITED” and the A in “STATES”.
If you would like to know more about 1916-D markers, click here.
If you like posts like this, please go to our counterfeit archive with reports from Jack Riley, Jack D. Young, John Lorenzo and Michael Bugeja. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
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Double denomination coins are genuine errors struck on a previously struck planchet of a different denomination (e.g., a cent on a dime). Double struck coins are struck twice with the same dies, often overlapping.
Let’s investigate these genuine error coins and distinguish them from post mint damage (vise and glue coins).
Double Denomination
A double denomination error happens when a previously struck coin, often a smaller denomination like a dime, is fed into a press for a larger denomination like a cent. Because there are two denominations, struck over each other, the error is known by this name. Typically, this happens when struck coin bounces or falls into the wrong hopper or is jammed in the machine, coming loose during striking of another coin.
Technically, this is a machine error. But unlike machine doubling, double denomination coins are rare and highly sought after. The strike also usually ends up misaligned on the planchet.
The most frequent holdered examples include the so-called “11-cent coin”–a cent on a dime. Often a Roosevelt dime is struck with a Lincoln cent. One way to tell is identifying the reeded edge from the dime. Replicas and fakes often do not include this identifying aspect.
Other denominations include a 15c Coin, or Jefferson Nickel on a Cent; 35c Coin, or Quarter on a Dime; and a $1.05 Coin Sacagawea Dollar on a Nickel.
Also, the dates of these double struck coins do not have to match. Two different dates usually occur with machine-jammed coins that come loose during striking of another, as in this example:
Double Struck
This error happens when a struck coin did not eject from the coining chamber and gets struck again, or several times. The result is an overlapping and distorted design with one strike flattening the other. Some double-struck coins have a date; others, as in the above example, do not.
There are different types of double struck coins. The most common is a coin struck correctly that doesn’t eject with the second strike off center. Another type happens with a second image struck over the first. Less common are multiple strikes,
You can see the various examples on the PCGS website. Here’s a double struck off center cent from that site:
The most common double strikes include Lincoln Cents (1959-2008) and clad Jefferson Nickels, Roosevelt Dimes and Modern Washington Quarters.
Vise and Glue Coins
A “vise job” is evidence of post mint damage. It is not an error. Someone squeezed one coin atop another using a vise, hammer or pliers so that it resembles a double struck or denomination coin.
You can spot a vise job when letters or the date appeal backward or the design is sunken into one rather than raised as would be a genuine error.
Note the backward spelling of “America” on this coin:
You can also do similarly with glue. These often appear like double strikes with a ghost image seemingly stuck to a regular strike. Upon inspection, you should see a foreign raised substance. A person uses glue to get an imprint of one coin and then layers it on another. If the raised area looks shiny, you probably have a glue coin.
As the glue dries, however, it may turn darker rather than transparent, looking like metal as below:
If in the market to purchase a double denomination or double struck coin, and are unsure how to identify replicas and forgeries, make sure that it is in a reputable holder. Keep in mind that China has been exporting these fakes. Here’s some examples from Etsy, all selling for under $30.
If you are interested in the various coin conditions like double denomination and double struck, be sure to visit our illustrated coin glossary, the largest on the web, with close to 300 entries.
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Proxiblog asked me to consider doing an article on “how eBay sellers react when we report their coins as fake? I know some take down the lots. Others don’t.” I was intrigued by the thought and decided to write the following!
When I explain a Bay listing is counterfeit sellers can react a number of ways–in disbelieve, argumentatively (Grandpa owned it), accepting and thankful, combative (I’ll meet you in a parking lot dude…) or just “crickets.”. In my experience the larger the seller the higher the probability of crickets.
So, moving on I will not lower our standards here and report the combative ones but several of recent experiences I have had of the other types of reactions.
Let’s start with an interesting Trade dollar. This example just caught my eye, and the images led me to believe the coin was not genuine. The images in the listing were not definitive, and I asked the seller for better ones. He agreed and that was all it took! The common reverse used for a family of fakes I nicknamed the “notched R.” I wrote an article on these published in a recent LSCC Gobrecht Journal. I actually own one returned to a seller by NGC as counterfeit, so well versed on these:
eBay recent listing
So, I asked the seller about the coin and that I had concerns about its authenticity. He responded that he looked up the cert and the “PCGS verification”.
I responded there were no images on the on-line cert, so no help there. I included images from my coin and article and that I was sure it was counterfeit.
And he responded with a thank you and that he would remove the listing immediately, which he did!
So, a win, except who knows were the coin ends up, as he responded he is taking it back to the previous seller… And then another listing and another message:
Seller actually had two bad Morgans in fake PCGS slabs listed:
As he stated in his message, he ended both!
So, two with likely the best results we could hope for. And then this one:
Another counterfeit coin in a counterfeit slab, this one gets a little complicated if you really evaluate this one properly.
First, the obverse barcode scans as a 1989 $10 gold eagle. Then, the images of the genuine example for the cert# on the PCGS site are a completely different coin. And third, the interesting twist for this one is fakes of this type typically have a reverse QR code that scans to the genuine PCGS cert site in CHINA (cnpcgs), BUT this one scans to pcgseurope! A separate article on this one in the works.
So, I notified the owner, but he is in denial, and his response and then silence:
Silent until this:
So, good luck to all eBayer’s with that one!
And now the crickets; my friend Jack Riley posted the next example in our Face Book group:
Pretty bad counterfeit in a counterfeit slab again, the surprise was it is a large well respected Bay coin seller. Several of us sent messages to the seller with no response, so I took a risk and purchased it with the intention of asking for a return for it being a counterfeit.
Refund granted, never heard from the seller…
And eBay removed the listing:
Shortly thereafter my eBay account was permanently suspended.
If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other venues. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.
You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.
Proxiblog wishes to thank the thousands of subscribers, followers and Facebook and YouTube coin group members for helping our site reach a half million hits in the past six months. A special thanks to our writers Jack Young, Jack Riley, Susan Blumlein Amodeo and John Lorenzo as well as Facebook coin group moderators who welcome our articles and posts.
Everyday on Facebook coin groups, Reddit and eBay, dryer and spooned coins appear with their owners believing they have found valuable errors. Let’s look closely at both examples of post mint damage in this article so you can identify what you have if you found examples in pocket change (literally) and rolls.
Also, this article showcases examples of sellers claiming dryer and spooned coins are valuable errors. They are not. They have no collector value.
Dryer Coin
A coin left in a home dryer or, more probably, a commercial dryer at a laundromat is known in numismatics as a “dryer coin,” dramatically changing dimensions so that it appears vastly different than the denomination.
The coin typically remains in a person’s pocket after being washed and tumbled and then falls out of the clothing and is exposed to high heat in a dryer. Sometimes it falls into the gap between the rotating inner drum and the stationary outer frame of a commercial dryer where it suffers even more damage due to grinding, friction and heat.
If you put the phrase “dryer coin” into a search engine, you get dozens of examples on Facebook and Reddit.
Dryer coins undergo these transformations: a flattening and widening of the edge, losing any reeding in the process. The heat pushes from the center outward resulting in a state that often resembles a bicycle tire with enhanced rim. The diameter becomes smaller.
Also, the result is a “mushy” discolored surface with devices literally melting away, as in the above coin. That is not a grease strike. It is a cent that was exposed to high heat in a commercial dryer. Compare:
It is important to distinguish between dryer coins and spooned ones. While both are considered damage, there are distinct differences.
Spooned
A spooned coin often looks like a dryer coin. In this case, however, the edge of a coin is intentionally hammered or pressed with the back of a spoon, eventually flattening and widening it.
The process is used to make a coin ring, as in this example:
The process of tooling the coin varies from a kitchen spoon to a handy person’s tool box and machinery. Basically, the coin is secured on a hard surface so that the person can use the back of a metal spoon, tapping, rotating and rubbing the coin over a long period (we’re talking days or even weeks).
Eventually the coin starts to mushroom toward the edge, developing an extended ring-like edge as in the above coin. At that point what remains of the coin is punched or drilled out, leaving the ring, which eventually is polished.
Some finished rings are lovely, as in this example:
Of course the finished ring looks nothing like a dryer coin. The confusion happens when the person abandons the spooning process and leaves the coin with a large ring-like edge but with the remaining devices of the coin still visible without the mushy appearance of a dryer coin.
That’s how you tell the difference between a spooned and dryer coin. Compare:
As you might expect, unknowledgeable people sell dryer and half-spooned coins as valuable error. Here’s an example of a dryer coin offered for $150.
Here’s an example of a spooned quarter misidentified as an error for $500.
Proxiblog has the largest illustrated glossary on the web. Click here. You can compare dryer and spooned coins to sunken dies and heat damage. Study all the examples so that you, too, can become a coin expert.
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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.
Fugazi is an Italian slang term meaning “fake” or “bogus,” referring to a counterfeit object, a sham, or a fraudulent person. People who counterfeit coins are shams and frauds.
We “out” them on Proxiblog.
Prompting this article is a 1914-D cent that a friend shared in a large Facebook coin group. After I explained that this was not genuine, I received additional closeup images for analysis.
A closeup image of the date and mintmark shows this coin is not a genuine 1914-D. The shape and placement of the mintmark is incorrect. This, however, is not the case of an altered date or an added mintmark; the entire coin is counterfeit.
This 1931-S had surfaced on eBay within the last few months. Comparing both reverses it is clear these were produced from the same makers and related to a large “family” of counterfeits. I’m calling this family “Notched O.” More on that momentarily.
The image quality of the 1931-S is subpar, leaving blurry images, yet enough to discern the repeating marks.
“Common marks” highlighted in Red:
Depression in O
Dent in “N” as well as the “O” in the word OF
Small indent of the “E”
At this writing I’ve only seen this on both 1914-D and 1931-S. Likely this exists on many key and semi key dates as well.
To check if your coin may belong to this “fugazi” (i.e. “fake”), look for those common marks highlighted above in red.
If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
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You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.
If you are in the market for fabulous toned coins, think about Tidy House and American Savings lots whose cardboard produces rainbow patinas.
But there are pitfalls, too. Unscrupulous sellers keep the toned coins and swap lesser or doctored coins.
This article showcases the type of toning you might find with original offerings.
Tidy House Dollars
“Tidy House dollars” are Morgans used in a promotional campaign by the Tidy House Products Company, a cleaning products company, in the 1960s.
The company reportedly acquired a large number of common-date Morgan silver dollars, mostly from the New Orleans (O) mint from the 1880s, from a U.S. Treasury hoard. These coins were sealed in a cardboard holder with an advertising description.
Toning is the main reason “Tidy House dollars” are collected. Coins in the cardboard develop rainbow patinas, as in this example from my collection:
I sent to PCGS and got this grade and TrueView:
But what to do with the now-empty Tidy House holder? You should save the holder after you slab your coin and then, when ready to sell it, show if as this seller did on eBay:
Don’t be fooled by Tidy House holders with coins having no patina. Those probably have been swapped out. You want to buy original ones with rainbows. Otherwise, let the lot go.
And keep in mind that Tidy House only holdered Morgans, not Peace dollars, as in this artificially toned one that I wrote about at Coin World.
In addition to Morgan dollars, Tidy House also holdered 1964 JFK Half Dollars. Those, too, usually have magnificent toning. Here’s an example from one of my Tidy House purchases:
Here’s an offering with all the paperwork and obviously swapped out coins.
American Savings Dollars
American Savings and Loan” banks, especially in Texas, also ran promotions using silver dollars, especially 1979-S Morgans, from a bank bag purchased from the Mint in the 1960s. These have exceptional toning.
I purchased this one in 2022:
Here’s how it graded:
I use the TrueView for my Proxiblog logo.
The empty holder is in my office drawer.
As with the Tidy House dollar, do not purchase any American Savings dollar that lacks toning or has ugly or doctored patina. If the coin exhibits wear, it didn’t come from the bank bag, as this coin, which is AU and has been cleaned and retoned:
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