The 2006 Lincoln Cent DDO FS-101 is one of the few true doubled dies since 1996 when the US Mint upgraded their machinery with what is called a “Single-Squeeze” hubbing process. The intent was to eliminate doubled dies altogether, but still we can see the method is not entirely fool proof.
The variety has its own PCGS number, meaning if you use it in the submission process you do not have request a special error variety label costing more money.
The key markers are a ghost image of an earlobe:
There is doubling on the date, thicker than regular strike, with noticeable spreading on the “6.”
It’s difficult to see, but there is also some doubling on the lower portion of Lincoln’s beard.
“Liberty” is a main marker, too, exhibiting extra thickness. Note the notch on the “T”:
The error happened when the working die was placed slightly out of alignment. Thousands are out there in rolls and pocket change.
There also is an FS-102 variety, lacking a clear ghost image of the earlobe. Markers are similar.
As you can see, PCGS shows significant values, based on condition, from about $30 in low mint state red to hundreds in super gem.
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Prompting this article is a counterfeit 1878-CC that was previously listed to eBay and quickly removed. All 1878cc have B reverses, otherwise known as the “2nd reverse” with parallel arrow feathers (rather than slanted).
As a refresher, here are both kinds.
In addition, the 1878-CC has a different type of mintmark from other CC years, excluding some 1880cc varieties.
Compare mintmarks with the 1879-CC Morgan, which has slanted tail feathers.
Now inspect the 1878-CC coin below.
Looking through my log of documented counterfeit reverses for Morgan Dollars I realize I’ve seen this one a few times. The “Doubled wreath reverse.” If any of these were genuine they would be some of more dramatic doubled dies of the series, which evident by this 1878cc that isn’t the case.
Now to the real meat and potatoes of this article! An 1881-CC that was posted to a Facebook coin group for determination of value and authenticity. Being that 1881-CC has a low mintage of a mere 296,000 coins, there are very few die marriages. Only VAM-2 and VAM-6 has a CC tilted left, clearly this coin doesn’t attribute to either die marriage. (To learn about VAMs, click here.)
It does match the reverse of the previous 1878cc!
Below see a comparison image of both the 1878 and 1881-CC reverses. The “doubled wreath” stands out clearly. Along with a few repeating circulation marks, one being a minor indent on the wreath and another in the field below the right star.
After a lengthy conversation with the individual who owns the coin, they couldn’t come to terms that it was a very modern counterfeit. I’m sure our readers will see this coin is clearly unattributable to a genuine die marriage and matches a known counterfeit.
The best way to guard against buying a counterfeit coin is to purchase an authentic one from a reputable dealer. Barring that, view Jack Young’s Jack Riley’s and my articles on counterfeit coins published by Proxiblog.
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Clash marks are valuable, but people often try to mimic them with a vise, pressing two coins together. Other times, for one reason or another, glue creates an impression of one coin on another. Do not bid on any of these until you can tell them apart. As you might imagine, eBay and online auctions often label vise and glue coins as clash marks.
Here are all three:
You can easily distinguish them by looking for specific tells under a loupe or magnifying glass. You want to check if the extra impression is raised or sunken, and whether the lettering is oriented normally or backwards. If backward, you’re looking at a vise or glue coin.
TYPE
CLASH MARKS
VISE COIN
GLUE COIN
RELIEF
Raised Devices
Sunken Devices
Flat Layered
ORIENTATION
Normal
Backward/Reversed
Backward/Reversed
THICKNESS
Normal
Flat/Distorted
Thick/Sticky
A die clash happens at the Mint when erroneously the obverse and reverse dies strike each other without a blank planchet between them. The so-called “ghost” image will be raised, not sunken or flatly layered.
Vise coins are created by pressing two coins together with a vise or hammering them to mimic the clashed die. Because of the method, the lettering will be backward, flattened, distorted or damaged, especially by the rims.
A glue coin happens any number of ways when two coins are bonded by an adhesive. When separated, the ghost image appears flat and layered on the other coin.
Often the tone of the coin will be altered with a dried or amber look, as you might anticipate with glue. True, flat and layered can be confused with raised of a die clash. To be sure, dip the coin in acetone and the ghost will dissolve.
Sometimes people use a vise to create weird patterns, thinking those unfamiliar with how coins are minted will consider this an error or variety.
You’ll find many more examples of vise and glue coins on Facebook because few people know how to tell these apart from clashed dies. They find them in rolls, typically, because someone realized this wasn’t a mint error.
Sometimes glue takes strange shapes. Again, you need to know how coins are made to understand how this could never happen at the Mint.
Depending on the condition of the coin and the denomination, because clashed dies, vise jobs and glue coins happen across denominations, values vary from minor examples $30 to major ones in the hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
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Today’s feature subject- the Trifecta all over again; counterfeit 1882-CC Morgan $, counterfeit PCGS slab, and counterfeit PCGS CN “authentication” website.
This article documents what is happening to our hobby. It is important for every collector to know what is happening on eBay and other venues with counterfeit coins, slabs and websites.
So, let’s start with the current one. I notified PCGS about this 1882-CC Morgan. As I have noted previously I use eBay for new material to write counterfeit articles on, and eBay apparently remembers me and my dumpster dive searches! The following is one page of a series of “inspiring” Bay offerings that came up the other day:
So the 1882-CC looked different and I thought worth taking a deeper dive on (notice the similar looking 1880-CC to the right as well). The original listing:
I have seen many odd listings on the Bay, but this one is notable. Starting with not-PCGS label the nomenclature seems bizarre; I have never seen a genuine one with the word “America” on it, making me think of others with “Morgan” on the label! And I had no clue what the “LM” and “Y” designations stands for; turns out they are attributions for Chinese coins!
The barcode doesn’t scan, the cert number doesn’t exist in the true PCGS database, and the gold shield looks like a child’s coloring book effort.
The seller shows front and back images and then a raw one on a scale while stating “With NFC C” for whatever that is supposed to mean.
And an old friend, “slash” the eagle! And where do you suppose the scale came from?
So bad cert #:
So, what about the reverse QR code? With that many “cn’s” in the address where do you suppose it will lead?
So a note for reference- the site we exposed at the beginning of the year was entirely different and was taken down quickly after notifying my contacts at PCGS and reporting on Proxiblog:
And the new site and images:
And like the previous site there is a “TrueView” type image to aid with authentication…
A little pricy to me at the time as I had 2 others going through the eBay refund/ return process then. Interestingly, both of them were reported through the Bay AI reporting process and came back AOK, but when I posted each on my Face Book sites and stated I bought one, they suddenly were removed along with the sellers…
So I reported this one and the bogus site to my contacts at PCGS and then posted on my personal FB page:
And poof, both the seller and listing were removed from the Bay…
From my post one can see there are Chinese coins included, as I went through the effort to find other ‘coins” on the site. Many CC Morgans and even more CN coins including this example:
Notice the cert #, 66259150 and the subject example, 66259979- each cert # in-between these shows another counterfeit. It goes on and on…
And an image of the ones I screen printed:
Saved images from the bad website
A true nightmare IMHO.
And the story continues, as after the subject listing and seller “disappeared”, more showed up to the party.
2 new sellers with the same appearing stuff, they now state “with grading box”.
I looked at the 1880-CC, and it matched the website examples but decided to purchase the 1882-CC.
And what about seller feedback? WOW, I didn’t know there was even such a thing as counterfeit perfume!
Yep, I took the chance of submitting feedback before receiving the item, so we will see how that worked for me.
And I did also report the 1880-CC, but both of these and the website are still up.
And eBay’s responses to both reports:
eBay’s report response states made by a “customer service agent” in both cases!
And the 1882-CC seller’s response to my feedback? Well, like another seller he cancelled my order stating I requested the cancellation.
And he added to the negative feedback chain and asked I contact them “directly to discuss”:
And an interesting anecdote, Paula Bluhm found a Chinese coin with the variety nomenclature used on this “Morgan” counterfeit! (Maybe a viewer can help with the Y and LM designations.)
I actually tried to purchase another one from the same seller, but he cancelled it after I paid for it; I was refunded by eBay.
And a 6-18 update- more sellers of these counterfeits hit the Bay, and they must have read my negative feedback and now obstruct the reverse QR code!
I purchased an 1880-CC, so we will see what I receive.
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You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.
The 2017 Lincoln cent carried the “P” mint mark to celebrate the U.S. Mint’s 225th anniversary. The Mint released the coins into circulation in January 2017 without any announcement, gaining publicity as collectors began noticing the change.
While unique, these cents are common. More than 4 billion of them were struck. Examples grading MS67+ retail for $80 but typically sell for about $30 in PCGS slabs. At MS68, graded by top companies, the price skyrockets to $500; but these are ultra rarities in such a high grade. Nevertheless, it is still fun to find the 2017-P cent in pocket change.
The “P” mint mark has never been used on a cent before or after 2017.
Hobbyists know that the Philadelphia Mint used no mintmark on coins because initially there were no branch mints. However, when other mints opened in Denver and San Francisco, for instance, they started using the “D” and “S” mintmarks on coins.
Beware of scammers claiming some 2017 cents are missing the “P” mintmark. That can only happen on grease strikes. Why? Because the “P” mintmark was etched on the master die for 2017 cents. You have to know how coins are made to realize why there is no missing “P” errors on 2017 cents.
In 2018, the Philadelphia Mint returned to the convention of no mintmark.
Other denominations have used the P mintmark. The nickel used the mintmark from 1942 to 1945 on 35% Silver “War Nickels” and then was removed. The “P” returned to nickels in 1980. Also in that year, dimes, quarters, half dollars started using the P mintmark. In 1979 the P mintmark appeared on the Susan B. Anthony dollar and henceforth was used on all Philly dollar coins, including the Sacagawea, Presidential, and American Innovation dollars.
Social media has hyped “missing mintmarks” as ultra rarities. Here’s a chart of them with odds of finding any.
If you would like to know more about these missing mintmarks, click here.
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Key date coins are a target for counterfeiters with a large profit to be made, but what about common date coins? Well, nothing is safe!
This article doesn’t focus on a connected “family,” rather a specific coin. This Bicentennial Eisenhower Dollar was previously shared in a Facebook group and many were shocked to learn that it is in fact counterfeit!
One may notice at a glance many raised “lumps” across the obverse fields and a large tell of the distended letters primary in “One Dollar”.
This surely isn’t a “one off” piece. I haven’t found a second example of one surface since this one so additional repeating marks are inconclusive. I suspect the diagonal notch through “trust” will be seen on all examples using this obverse.
Why would China counterfeit a common dollar like this?
Many hobbyists think that a high value of a coin makes it a candidate for counterfeiters. Counterfeiters take advantage of this false sense of security. The coin here probably was part of a complete set that someone purchased, realized the deception, and used or sold.
It costs about a dime to a quarter to make these dollars. Sell one, even for a dollar, and you have a substantial profit.
If you like posts like this, please go to our counterfeit archive with reports from Jack Riley, Jack D. Young, John Lorenzo and Michael Bugeja. Also, please subscribe so you be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
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When the US Mint makes a transition from one type of planchet to another, as we have seen with the popular 1982-D Small Date brass cent, unused planchets are sure to be stuck somewhere in the coinage bins, which is precisely what happened with 1965 dimes and quarters.
To get your hands on one or both, you need to be rich … or lucky with rolls and pocket change. Nevertheless, you’ll have better odds with these than the 1982-D Small Date transitional error, of which only two have been found.
1965 Dime on 90% Silver Planchet
1965 dimes were supposed to be copper-nickel. The price of silver was responsible for common denominations to transition to clad. A small number of silver blanks got into feeder bins. Between 20-100 of the rarity may have escaped into circulation.
Value is between $3,000 and $13,000 and higher, depending on condition and certification grade by a top-tier holdering company.
To determine if you found the rarity, look at the edge. If you see a copper stripe, you have the clad dime. If you can’t see the stripe, weigh it. A clad dime weighs 2.27 grams; the silver dime, 2.5 grams.
1965 Quarter on 90% Silver Planchet
The same thing happened with quarters as with the dime above. Some leftover 1964 silver planchets got into 1965 clad hoppers. Fewer than 20 are believed to have left the Mint.
An authentic 1965 Washington quarter accidentally struck on a 90% silver planchet is valued between $4,000 and $17,000+, depending on its condition and professional grade and certification. Again, look at the edge. If you see a copper stripe, you have the common clad quarter. If not, weigh it. A clad quarter weighs 5.67 grams whereas a silver one weighs 6.25 grams.
The 1965 Half Dollar “Unicorn”
Hobbyists searching for the “Unicorn”–a coin so rare as to be mythic–continue to look for a 1965 Half Dollar struck on a 1964 90% silver planchet. Hey, if the same thing happened with the dime and quarter, why not the JFK Half?
Good luck with that. None have been found.
If you think you found the unicorn, it should weigh 12.5 grams whereas a 40% regular strike should weigh 11.5 grams.
It goes without saying, beware of replicas and alterations and false claims on eBay and Facebook.
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1944 steel cents from all three US Mints are extremely rare transitional errors occurring when leftover 1943 zinc-coated steel planchets became stuck in annealing furnaces, tote bins or coining presses. Because of their rarity, however–a few dozen have been actually found and authenticated–there are thousands of counterfeits, altered dates and copies flooding online coin venues.
The most common of these ultra rarities came from the Philadelphia Mint, which was using steel planchets to produce foreign coins. Some of those planchets got into the Lincoln cent bin. Fewer than 10 1944-D steel cents have been authenticated. These steel planchets were left over when the Mint started making copper cents that year. Steel planchets were mixed in totes mistakenly and were struck as 1944-S cents.
Step-by-Step Method
To test if you have one of these ultra rarities, use a magnet. If it sticks, you can continue to check if real.
Weigh the coin. If it weighs more than 2.7 grams, typically 3.1 grams, you have a fake.
If not, look at the second “4” in the date. If you spot anything suspicious, such as a scratch or tool mark–or weird spacing between numbers–you have an altered date.
Look for plating bubbles–tiny bumps–in the fields especially. You also might find pitting in these.
Check for strike. Zinc-plated counterfeits have mushy devices and dates. Authentic ones have sharper devices.
A key diagnostic is the word “Liberty.” Again, if mushy, you probably have a fake. In authentic examples, the word not only is sharp but also close to the edge. Striking copper differs from striking steel. The later has more hardness, pushing the “L” close to the rim.
Comparison of “Liberty”
Examples of Fakes
Online sellers on Temu and Etsy have flooded the market with all manner of fakes and replicas.
REPLICAS
CASTING BUBBLES
ZINC PLATED
It goes without saying that you should never bid on or buy a raw 1944 P/D/S steel cent that isn’t certified by a major holding company such as PCGS, NGC, ANACS and CAC. Even then, look up the certification number and check to make sure you are looking at the same coin because China also packages fake coins in fake holders. The best way is to wait for one of these rarities featured on a major auction house such as GreatCollections, Heritage or Stacks Bowers.
f you like posts like this, please go to our counterfeit archive with reports from Jack Riley, Jack D. Young, John Lorenzo and Michael Bugeja. Also, please subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.
You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.
A woody–woodgrain marks on a coin–is caused by an improper alloy mix whereas similar marks are caused by dirty rollers at the Mint. Woodies are collectible. Roller marks are not.
A woody has irregular, streaky, wood-like toning, usually red brown often mixed with lighter brass-like colors. The lines are uneven, splotchy and on both sides of the coin. They often appear on older Wheat and Indian Head Cents.
Roller marks are easy to identify. They are straight and parallel. They usually appear on both sides of a coin, especially ones minted between 1978-1984.
Here is a handy chart:
Feature
Woody (Improper Alloy)
Roller Marks (Damage)
Appearance
Irregular, splotchy, wood grain texture
Straight, uniform, parallel lines
Color
Varies (Red/Brown/Brass)
Same as the rest of the coin
Depth
Surface toning, usually flush with metal
Shallow, incuse lines (cut into the metal)
Texture
Usually smooth
Scratched, feels textured
Consistency
Random streaking
Uniform, consistent width
Woodies are collectible but values depend on the condition and mintage/rarity of the coin. Most Wheat cents sell for $5-50; Indian cents, $10-75. Uncirculated ones can command high prices–basically, what one is willing to pay. Example:
If you are bidding on or buying a coin, make sure you can tell the difference. Roller mark coins are often mislabeled as woodies. Examples:
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There are all manner of scams by people looking to cash in on collectors who do not know markers for ultra rarities. And when it comes to the 1982-D Small Date Bronze transitional error, there is a desperation by newbies educated by clickbait social media that the third example is out there in pocket change.
Sellers take advantage of such ignorance.
If you are interested in an article about the various types of 1982 cents, including all markers for the transitional error, click here.
But let’s cut to the chase with basic knowledge.
Only two 1982-D Small Date 3.1 grams have been found.
Here’s how they look close up.
Here are markers for the small date.
DO NOT bid or buy any coin that is placed on a scale reading 3.1. You’ll be buying a zinc small date, of little or no value. Or a coin on tinkered scale.
You will see several examples on eBay of sellers showing a regular 1982-D large date bronze cent in a PCGS holder. Sellers think if they claim a regular strike is the small date, you’ll believe it, only because it is holdered by PCGS and you don’t know the markers.
Here’s an example:
Here’s how to decipher.
There are two numbers below the condition. In this case below, 146021.58, means two things: 146021 goes to the CoinFacts designation and the 58, the condition, AU58. In the image below, you can see that the 146021 goes to the regular large date strike.
Here’s another example with the seller claiming this large date is a small date. Again, the 146021 gives it away.
The seller of the above coin did not take kindly to my message that this is a scam.
He doesn’t like his time being wasted. He just wants to waste your money.
Ultra rarities are not found in pocket change; when one is, that becomes a national news story. If you think you found one, do not post it on social media and claim authenticity. If you are so sure, send it to PCGS, NGC, ANACS or CAC. And if you want to buy an ultra rarity, make sure you know how to read the holder company label.
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