Every 1922 cent should carry the “D” mintmark from Denver, which was the only facility to produce cents in 1922. But accidents happen, and a mint employee over polished a working die, erasing the “D.”
The Denver Mint struck a total of 7,160,000 Lincoln cents that year. Due to a shortage of coin dies, Denver workers polished and reused damaged, clogged dies. That is how the mistake happened.
Coin collectors know that the Philadelphia Mint typically does not use a mintmark for coinage. So the missing mintmark has the appearance of being struck at Philly.
Only about 15,000 examples exist of the missing mintmark cent, a key date for collectors and a rarity, worth hundreds and even thousands of dollars, depending on the die pairs.
That’s why identifying the rarity is important. We’ll explore that here.
The 1922 Cent is categorized as follows:
Standard 1922-D (Normal mint mark)
1922 “Weak D” (Faint, blurry, or partially filled mint mark)
1922 “No D” / Plain (Mint mark completely missing)
In addition, value is assessed by die pairs:
Die Pair #1 (Weak D / No D – Weak Reverse). Mushy or missing lines on wheat stalks. Die Pair #2 (“No D” Strong Reverse). Clear lines on wheat stalks. Die Pair #3 (Weak D / No D – Weak Reverse). The final “2” in the date is notably weaker than the first “2”. Die Pair #4 (Weak D / No D – Weak Reverse): Very similar to pair 3 but typically even mushier.
Scammers find it easy to erase the “D” on a well-defined 1922-D normal mintmark coin. They do so by tooling or filling the area where the mintmark should be. Here’s a suspicioius example:
This is one occasion to use a coin microscope. Any deviation on the surface is suspect.
Also keep in mind that China mass produces replicas that dishonest sellers offer as authentic. Example:
As always, if you cannot distinguish die pairs, or are unsure, do not bid on or buy any unholdered coin.
As you might anticipate, die pair #2 values are expensive.
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In 2017, I won in an online auction a roll of Morgan dollars supposedly from a Carson City, Nev., bank. The date 1879 was on one end of the roll and the CC Mint mark of the Carson City Mint on the reverse. I paid $2,400 for the roll and reported the results for Coin World.
If the roll was actually from Carson City, with 1879-CCs therein, it would have been a magnificent score, worth tens of thousands. I knew that would not be the case. This was research for an article. As it turned out, there was one 1883-CC low mint state (the coin whose reverse showed on one end of the roll). The rest were sliders with a few uncirculated common date Morgans. A few, though, were toned, so I did recoup some of the investment. In the end, I lost more than $1,300.
That was a baited roll. In other words, someone had access to a Carson City bank paper roll and filled it so that one end had a CC, fooling optimists (fools) that other coins therein had the same rare mintmark.
This article cautions against buying these rolls on eBay, HiBid or other auction venues. Not only because almost all of these have searched already; but because the specter of counterfeits in those rolls is increasing
For instance, Jack D. Young wrote an article titled “Bad Coin Rolls,” about a seller offering two mixed rolls of small cents with an apparent 1857 Flying Eagle counterfeit cent.
Here’s a clearly opened roll from HiBid. Note how loose the ends of the roll are, even though the seller states “SEALED. (For newbies, “sealed” does NOT mean “unopened.”)
Learn what an opened roll looks like, with loose ends that the owner could not get back into original form. Example:
Proxiblog has written about photos of rolls, important before you bid or buy. You should see both ends in any offering to identify if they show evidence of being opened. Here’s a legitimate offering of Peace Dollars with one side (left) tight and original and the other (reverse side, right), opened.
Veteran hobbyists know that you should never bid on these rolls, even if both sides look tight and unopened. A good scammer can use an Exacto knife to open and reseal a roll so that it looks original. (I won’t share how to do that; I learned from my local coin dealer, decades ago, who showed me all the scammer tricks, pre Internet.)
But now, with the onslaught of Chinese fake Morgan dollars, the risk has increased. Many hobbyists cannot identify counterfeit coins. Consider this Etsy copy (right) if inserted into a Morgan roll. Would you be able to tell the difference?
In the past, scammers had to shell out for at least one uncirculated Carson City 1882-1884 Morgan dollars. Now, counterfeits are in play. This, in itself, is a good reason NOT to purchase these rolls.
Recommendations:
If you want to stack silver or buy Morgan and Peace rolls, purchase from reputable online sellers using their own plastic rolls, like APMEX:
2. Do not bid or buy any roll on eBay or other online venues if one end of the roll looks opened or if the seller doesn’t show both ends of that roll. Classic bad example with no ends of roll depicted:
3. Do not fall for baited Carson City bank rolls. Those are almost always opened. Below is a 10-coin roll from eBay. (Note for newbies: Morgan and Peace dollars are routinely offered in 10-coin and 20-coin rolls. Do not assume all rolls have 20 coins.)
Finally, learn about Etsy replicas. Proxiblog has documented these in several articles. CLICK HERE FOR EXAMPLES.
The more you learn about coins, the less chance of your being snookered.
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For the veterans looking for specific classes of doubled dies, here are nine with illustrations. While it is important to know these, beginners are discouraged from trying to learn these via memorization. They should access the three main types of doubling. That said, they might still want to see the visuals to grasp all the types of hub doubling creating varieties in coin collecting.
Values of the above depend on rarity and condition. Check PCGS CoinFacts for particulars.
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True doubled dies are becoming difficult to find ever since the US Mint installed new machinery (sing-squeeze hubbing) in 1997, virtually eliminating true doubled dies. But they still occur because the machinery requires several presses per working die, and if that is improperly align, viola!: Doubled Dies.
Also, because of the power now of the coining machines, pressure can cause a slight slip and even result in a ghost image.
One of the first examples in the Lincoln Memorial Cent category is the 2004 DDR (also known as 2004 DDR FS-801).
Like the 2006 DDO cent, the misalignment of the 2004 DDR cannot always be easily spotted with a naked eye. You’ll need a loupe or, if you prefer, microscope.
You will be looking for distorted, thick, somewhat bulb-like lettering in “UNITED STATES OF AMERICA” and “E PLURIBUS UNUM.”
Let’s review the markers.
Here are the main pickup points on “E PLURIBUS UNUM.”
After that, check the word “States” for thickness and doubling, as shown here:
Also look for any deformed dots, as here:
To help you visualize differences, compare thickness and doubling next to a regular 2004 reverse.
Based on condition, PCGS Values range from $30 to $500+ in red uncirculated condition. Red-brown examples are exceedingly lower in worth.
Because the markers may need magnification, we do not recommend buying raw examples from eBay and online auctions. Photos just cannot identify the above markers unless crisp and large. Never pay hundreds of dollars for any coin, especially a purported doubled die, unless holdered.
Here’s an example. No way to verify if this is a DDR.
Mintage of the 2004 cent in Philly was 3,379,600,000; so thousands of these doubled dies should be in bags, rolls and circulation. Coin shops and eBay often sell unopened mint bags like this one, identified by date. My local coin dealer years ago had a $50 bag of 1995 DDO cents! Several years ago I bought an unopened 1982-D cent bag. Great grades but, you guessed it, no 1982-D Small Date 3.1 grams.
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If you are wondering why there are not many true doubled dies in modern coinage, there is a very good reason. In 1996, the US Mint replaced multi-press hubbing methods with the single-squeeze process. A highly polished, master steel hub with a raised version of the coin design presses its devices into a cone-shaped planchet in one humongous strike.
Here’s a video of the coin production process.
In effect, this new hubbing process was meant to eliminate embarrassing doubled die errors like the famous 1955 DDO Cent.
Despite the ultra-modern coining machinery, an extreme doubled die occurred with the 2009-D District of Columbia Doubled Die Reverse (DDR) quarter. Reason? Human error.
During production the master hub was misaligned and minted blanks at an uneven angle. Every coin struck by that die had the error. It is listed as the Fivaz-Stanton FS-801 variety.
The dramatic doubling occurred on the reverse with a clear “ELL” split under the name “ELLINGTON.”
The first few black and white keys of the piano also are doubled.
Using a loupe or microscope, you also can see raised outlines Duke Ellington’s hand.
Because the 2009-D Quarter is easily overlooked in pocket change, you might miss this fabled modern doubled die. PCGS CoinFacts missed it in using an MS67 example for the regular coin that also happened to be the doubled die.
Out of the total mintage of88,800,000 coins, the DDR variety represents a small fraction. Still between 100,000-250,000 are believed to have left the Mint.
Values depend on condition. A circulated example in pocket change usually brings about $10-25 on eBay. Uncirculated and graded gems can being $50; super gems, in the hundreds.
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I have known Ian Russell for a quarter century when he worked for Teletrade, an early pioneer in the certified coin market. He served as president of Teletrade from 2005-2010. He then founded GreatCollections Coin Auctions, which I whole-heartedly recommend. Good buyer and seller rates. I have used the site for years.
If you don’t known Russell, you can read his biography by clicking here.
Russell is treasurer of the Anti-Counterfeiting Educational Foundation, which raises awareness about counterfeit coins and bullion and works with authorities to track down sources of fake lots and sales.
I asked Russell to comment on what Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and I have been documenting on eBay and other online venues, i.e., counterfeit coins in fake PCGS holders whose certification numbers open to a Chinese site.
The Elements: The scam consists of three parts: a cheap base-metal counterfeit coin, a slab designed to mimic an authentic PCGS holder, and a fake URL/QR code.
The Fake Website: Scanning the QR code on the slab directs victims to a mirror website that falsely “verifies” the fake certification number as legitimate.
Prevalence: Investigated by numismatists on Proxiblog Coin News and Views, these scams heavily flood online marketplaces like eBay.
Proxiblog recommended these actions if encountering the sale of fake coins:
Verify Directly: Never use the QR code or URL printed on a suspicious slab’s label. Manually search the certification number on the Official PCGS Verification Portal.
Compare Markers: Scrutinize the coin’s die markers and weight, as counterfeiters often use stolen images of genuine coins for their listings.
Report Fakes: You can read investigative articles by numismatists at the Proxiblog Counterfeit Archive to stay up-to-date on current fakes.
The sheer number of “Not PCGS” counterfeits has reached epidemic proportions. See this video for examples:
Proxiblog recently contacted PCGS President Stephanie Sabin, who provided this statement:
“Since founding PCGS in 1986, our mission has been to protect collectors through leading authentication, grading, and the most secure holders in the industry. However, a powerful brand inevitably attracts counterfeiters, and we treat combating these fraudulent holders as an aggressive, ongoing priority. True security requires staying multiple steps ahead, which is why we continually invest in advanced overt and covert security features across all our product lines. We applaud the dedicated individuals and organizations within our community who work tirelessly to educate collectors on the dangers of counterfeit holders; their vigilance to eliminate altered and fraudulent collectibles is essential to protecting consumers and preserving the integrity of the numismatic marketplace.”
After that article ran, Proxiblog began getting emails and messages about whether their actual PCGS-holdered coins were legitimate. That shows the damage being done to the main reason that holdering companies exist: authentication. Proxiblog viewers also wanted to know what the big auction houses are doing to ensure that coins holdered by PCGS, NGC and other companies contain genuine coins.
So we contacted Russell to find out.
“The rise in counterfeit coins housed in fake PCGS holders has become one of the most serious threats facing the numismatic marketplace today,” Russell says. “At GreatCollections, every coin is carefully reviewed before it is offered for sale, and our team is highly experienced at identifying counterfeit holders, altered labels, and fraudulent verification schemes. Protecting bidders and maintaining confidence in third-party grading are top priorities.”
When questionable material is identified, GreatCollections removes it from consideration regardless of its source. While most consignors are acting in good faith and are often unaware they possess a counterfeit item, Russell says, “we will not offer any coin whose authenticity cannot be fully verified. The integrity of the marketplace depends on strict authentication standards and consistent enforcement.”
Russell is concerned about the growing sophistication of counterfeit holders. This has understandably caused some collectors to question genuine certified coins. “That is why auction houses, grading services, dealers and collectors must remain vigilant and work together to identify and remove counterfeit material whenever it appears. Confidence in certified coins is built on trust, and that trust must be protected.”
Jack D. Young also was among the first to report counterfeit coins in fake PCGS holders with GreatCollection labels. The label on the left side below is fake. Compare it to the real label, right.
Russell says, “We’ve also encountered counterfeit PCGS holders that use fake GreatCollections labels. Ironically, the counterfeiters often print a GreatCollections inventory label inside the sealed PCGS holder, as though it were inserted during the grading process. It’s almost comical, but it also illustrates how far these operations are willing to go to create a false sense of authenticity.”
As counterfeiters continue to refine their methods, Russell recommends reading Proxiblog and other numismatic publications, paying attention to careful examination and buying from reputable sources.
For an inventory of Proxiblog counterfeit articles, click here.
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The 2006 Lincoln Cent DDO FS-101 is one of the few true doubled dies since 1996 when the US Mint upgraded their machinery with what is called a “Single-Squeeze” hubbing process. The intent was to eliminate doubled dies altogether, but still we can see the method is not entirely fool proof.
The variety has its own PCGS number, meaning if you use it in the submission process you do not have request a special error variety label costing more money.
The key markers are a ghost image of an earlobe:
There is doubling on the date, thicker than regular strike, with noticeable spreading on the “6.”
It’s difficult to see, but there is also some doubling on the lower portion of Lincoln’s beard.
“Liberty” is a main marker, too, exhibiting extra thickness. Note the notch on the “T”:
The error happened when the working die was placed slightly out of alignment. Thousands are out there in rolls and pocket change.
There also is an FS-102 variety, lacking a clear ghost image of the earlobe. Markers are similar.
As you can see, PCGS shows significant values, based on condition, from about $30 in low mint state red to hundreds in super gem.
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Prompting this article is a counterfeit 1878-CC that was previously listed to eBay and quickly removed. All 1878cc have B reverses, otherwise known as the “2nd reverse” with parallel arrow feathers (rather than slanted).
As a refresher, here are both kinds.
In addition, the 1878-CC has a different type of mintmark from other CC years, excluding some 1880cc varieties.
Compare mintmarks with the 1879-CC Morgan, which has slanted tail feathers.
Now inspect the 1878-CC coin below.
Looking through my log of documented counterfeit reverses for Morgan Dollars I realize I’ve seen this one a few times. The “Doubled wreath reverse.” If any of these were genuine they would be some of more dramatic doubled dies of the series, which evident by this 1878cc that isn’t the case.
Now to the real meat and potatoes of this article! An 1881-CC that was posted to a Facebook coin group for determination of value and authenticity. Being that 1881-CC has a low mintage of a mere 296,000 coins, there are very few die marriages. Only VAM-2 and VAM-6 has a CC tilted left, clearly this coin doesn’t attribute to either die marriage. (To learn about VAMs, click here.)
It does match the reverse of the previous 1878cc!
Below see a comparison image of both the 1878 and 1881-CC reverses. The “doubled wreath” stands out clearly. Along with a few repeating circulation marks, one being a minor indent on the wreath and another in the field below the right star.
After a lengthy conversation with the individual who owns the coin, they couldn’t come to terms that it was a very modern counterfeit. I’m sure our readers will see this coin is clearly unattributable to a genuine die marriage and matches a known counterfeit.
The best way to guard against buying a counterfeit coin is to purchase an authentic one from a reputable dealer. Barring that, view Jack Young’s Jack Riley’s and my articles on counterfeit coins published by Proxiblog.
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You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.
Clash marks are valuable, but people often try to mimic them with a vise, pressing two coins together. Other times, for one reason or another, glue creates an impression of one coin on another. Do not bid on any of these until you can tell them apart. As you might imagine, eBay and online auctions often label vise and glue coins as clash marks.
Here are all three:
You can easily distinguish them by looking for specific tells under a loupe or magnifying glass. You want to check if the extra impression is raised or sunken, and whether the lettering is oriented normally or backwards. If backward, you’re looking at a vise or glue coin.
TYPE
CLASH MARKS
VISE COIN
GLUE COIN
RELIEF
Raised Devices
Sunken Devices
Flat Layered
ORIENTATION
Normal
Backward/Reversed
Backward/Reversed
THICKNESS
Normal
Flat/Distorted
Thick/Sticky
A die clash happens at the Mint when erroneously the obverse and reverse dies strike each other without a blank planchet between them. The so-called “ghost” image will be raised, not sunken or flatly layered.
Vise coins are created by pressing two coins together with a vise or hammering them to mimic the clashed die. Because of the method, the lettering will be backward, flattened, distorted or damaged, especially by the rims.
A glue coin happens any number of ways when two coins are bonded by an adhesive. When separated, the ghost image appears flat and layered on the other coin.
Often the tone of the coin will be altered with a dried or amber look, as you might anticipate with glue. True, flat and layered can be confused with raised of a die clash. To be sure, dip the coin in acetone and the ghost will dissolve.
Sometimes people use a vise to create weird patterns, thinking those unfamiliar with how coins are minted will consider this an error or variety.
You’ll find many more examples of vise and glue coins on Facebook because few people know how to tell these apart from clashed dies. They find them in rolls, typically, because someone realized this wasn’t a mint error.
Sometimes glue takes strange shapes. Again, you need to know how coins are made to understand how this could never happen at the Mint.
Depending on the condition of the coin and the denomination, because clashed dies, vise jobs and glue coins happen across denominations, values vary from minor examples $30 to major ones in the hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
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Doubled dies are valuable because you can usually readily see the spread without a coin microscope. The naked eye or loupe is all you need.
You can easily go down the rabbit hole checking Wexler or Variety Vista, both of which are dedicated to die markers and varieties, along with hub doubling. There are just too many entries with obtuse markers for the beginning collector. Focus on these first so you can see what hub doubling actually looks like.
1972 Lincoln Cent (DDO-001):Another famous modern cent variety with a huge spread. NOTE: Go to the link to see other 1972 doubled dies. You might need a microscope to see them.
1995 Lincoln Cent (DDO-001): A popular modern find heavily distributed into regular circulation with easily seen doubling on “LIBERTY.”
1909 VDB Lincoln Cent (DDO-001): The first year of the Lincoln cent with doubling on the date and obverse text.
1917 Lincoln Cent (DDO-001): This cent features very strong, distinctive doubling on the date and the motto.
1936 Lincoln Cent (DDO-001): Philadelphia produced three separate DDOs this year, but Type 1 is famous for its wide, bold spread on the date and legends.
1970-S Lincoln Cent “Large Date” (DDO-001): A rare San Francisco variety with strong doubling on the mottoes and date.
1916 Buffalo Nickel (DDO-001): Heavily doubled and easy to see, one of the most coveted.
Veteran hobbyists forget that beginning collectors typically do not know VAMs for Morgan and Peace dollars and also for minor doubled dies–Wexler and Variety Vista is full of them.
Veteran hobbyists, especially on Facebook and social media, should remember that beginners do not know how to navigate those rabbit holds and think everything is a valuable doubled die. Few beginners and even long-time hobbyists may not know VAMs, obscure types of doubled dies (Classes I-IX), and common mint errors.
Keep it simple, as this article does.
If you are a collector of varieties and doubled dies, be sure to see our directory that features denominations that carry unique PCGS numbers. Articles there, too.
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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.
