Both of these “coins” were certified as genuine by the noted third party grading company, so they have to be genuine, right?
Authors images of both obverse slabs
Not so fast! Look up the cert on the PCGS example, you get a clue. The IGC cert is apparently still active.
TPG’s on-line cert verification
Both TPGs are aware these are “not-genuine” and both noted similar timelines for submission. Both indicated these were submitted in the 2008-2009 time period. Additional images of both:
So, what ties these 2 together? Went to my low-cost microscope to see and after scanning closeup sections of both I developed these combination images; the effort here is to determine if there are any common “circulation” marks:
Circulation marks in the same area of the 2 different coins
I have circled in red obvious common markers between these two different dated coins starting with the reverse at UNITED. As I move on to other areas you will note I start running out of red ink! And again, the significance of this is these are not die state markers of a genuine die/ coin, they are circulation marks, dings, dents, scratches that should only be on one genuine coin. NOT 2, and certainly NOT 2 different dates!
I continue now with 3 other areas of the reverse.
Highlighted common circulation marks around the “R”
Highlighted common circulation marks around the DOLLAR
And some pretty significant ones around the eagle’s head:
Highlighted common circulation marks around the eagle’s head
Many of these marks are visible to the naked eye or with a light glass. They were obvious to my friends at my local Coin Shop, where they both tested 90% silver.
And what about the obverses? Well, my images aren’t great, and my microscope scan didn’t show any notable common marks, but the strike comparison is apparent even in these images:
The two subject coins obverses
As one of my TPG contacts stated, “the obverse rim looks wider on the left than on the right. This is a characteristic found on fakes.”
This is my 2nd Proxiblog article on bad Trade Dollars, one of the historically most counterfeited coins in the US series. Not only should collectors know the series should they collect them but also keep a keen eye out for the many fakes out there.
Finally, we can’t rely on the “sacred cow” of trusting the slab, as there not only are many counterfeit coins in counterfeit holders, but on occasion a counterfeit in a genuine TPG holder certified as genuine.
This is what keeps me up at night.
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We have discussed and documented a large number of counterfeits for sale in various venues since I started this journey of writing attribution articles on them! And in this latest installment for Proxiblog, we have a couple of unusual twists and turns starting as usual with an interesting eBay listing.
A friend posted the suspect coin recently listed on the Bay on the MyCollect forum. Although he didn’t save a screenshot of the seller’s listing, he did save images of the coin, a 1928 PCGS MS65 Peace dollar.
eBay imaged suspect example (call it “2255” from cert)
What made it especially interesting was the label cert number brought up an on-line PCGS cert of a different coin! Scanning the front barcode with my on-line software resulted in a “no scan,” but the reverse QR code read the correct cert number but directed to the “CN” PCGS site. We have seen this before with fake coins in counterfeit holders, but this one seemed different. Even though it doesn’t match the actual certed example there was nothing that stood out as counterfeit on the listed “coin.”
Online PCGS cert verification and image for noted cert #
QR code scan for the suspect example “2255”
Doing my standard deep dive of the internet for more information I found the same coin had been posted in another forum and the OP saved an image of his report of the listing; it did show the seller’s ID. After the listing was removed the seller went “no longer a registered user.”
Initial Bay lister of “2255”
The first twist came when I found a similar imaged PCGS slab and coin on AliExpress; the difference was the label and cert # were different, but everything else appeared to be the same image including the reverse toning spots on both. This cert led to a genuine example and matching images from a past Heritage auction noted on the PCGS online cert.
Ali listing of “9808”
Online PCGS cert verification and image for the 2nd noted cert # “9808”
So the seller on Ali is inappropriately using Heritage’s images to sell “something.”
Continued dumpster diving led to a new seller listing one like the first example; listing was reported and was removed. Seller seems to have gone dormant since this listing but is one to continue to watch.
2nd eBay listing of the “2255” example
So, to sum it up at this point there appears to be two scams here:
First, photoshopped images using a genuine coin but wrong cert # (“2255” example) to sell “something” on the Bay.
Second, images of the same genuine one with correct cert # (“9809” example) to sell “something” direct from AliExpress. I suspect they are connected somehow.
And then another major twist when I performed my daily Bay brouse and found this gem from a brand-new seller (member since 10-21-24):
10-22-24 Bay listing of apparent counterfeit 1928 Peace dollar and slab
10-22-24 Bay listing (on the left) PhotoShopped label/ “2255” example (on right)
10-22-24 Bay listing (on the left) photoshopped label/ “2255” example (on right)
The “coin” is obviously not the same as the genuine one, but the counterfeiters tried to misorient it (rotate it in the holder) to look like the genuine example. The gasket fit is poor, another tell-tale sign of a bad holder and again the reverse QR code scans to the “CN” PCGS site.
This listing was also removed; seller stated he could go down to $500 for it.
So, how could this get worse (or more confusing) you may ask! Well, the AliExpress listing updated their image to a different genuine coin, another with similar coin orientation in the holder and sold in a 2021 Heritage auction.
Latest AliExpress listing
Heritage listing for this cert number (“4678”)
Definitely a different coin; one has to wonder where this will stop!
Heritage images of “4678”
So, more Heritage stolen images for an AliExpress listing for “something.”
And maybe the final twist: I decided to find out what one actually receives when buying the Ali “9088” listed version!
And I received this 11-05-24 in a package marked “Storage box” for US Customs:
Package received
And the “coin”! Advertised off Ali’s site on the top, received on the bottom:
Advertised (top) received (bottom) See any differences?
I have started the return/ refund process; but, from a previous article I wrote about reporting bad coins listed on Ali through their process I have little confidence much will come of it.
I did determine “counterfeit” is not an acceptable reportable topic there.
So ends another journey; it is getting really hard to keep up with all the ways scammers and the like are challenging the Hobby.
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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.
NOTE: Jack D. Young is a researcher, numismatic author and founder of the “Dark Side” Counterfeits and Fakes Facebook watch group. He is one of the country’s leading experts on fake coins and has worked with several government agencies, including the Secret Service. Young started collecting as a youth, filling a Lincoln penny board with his grandmother, and continues to collect low-grade early large cents. We are honored to have Young as a contributor to Proxiblog–so much so, that you will be able to find Young’s articles under the “Archives” tab.
By Jack D. Young, Proxiblog Contributor
I recently wrote an article on a counterfeit 1916-D Merc dime in a fake PCGS holder but with a new twist! Love the twists, this one apparently used a Great Collections sticker from a different coin and slapped it on the fake to add credibility to theirs…
The image of the GC “stickered” coin follows:
Past eBay listing images: counterfeit coin, “PCGS” slab /GC label
The QR coded stick-on label looks like this for the actual coin sold, and was for a 1926-D Merc:
Genuine Great Collections QR coded auction lot label
So on to the main subject of this article, this rather common counterfeit 1881-CC Morgan in a fake “PCGS” slab and the original Bay listing:
eBay listed counterfeit 1881-CC Morgan and fake “PCGS” holder.
Interesting that it was listed on the Bay under “China Empire.”
Label font and barcode immediately look off, and the barcode did not scan; the reverse QR code is interesting, as it appears to be a GreatCollections tag but scans as many of these fakes to the PCGS “CN” site:
The PCGS online cert shows an image of the genuine coin as well as a past auction listing:
PCGS online cert for the genuine certified example
Image comparisons of the subject example as follows:
Subject example (left) to the genuine one (right)
Subject example (left) to the genuine one (right)
So, the counterfeiters have progressed to also faking a Great Collections auction label, although they didn’t use the genuine QR code at this time.
Counterfeit GC label (left) versus genuine one (right)
Again, the counterfeit QR code takes one to China, the GC one to their actual auction listing for the genuine coin.
Current Great Collections auction for the genuine coin
And the counterfeiters are doing this one “real time” and turning out a revised/ updated counterfeit product while the latest auction is still running!
I posted this one on PCGS’ CU forum and received this response:
Having trouble keeping up? Don’t feel lonely! The counterfeiters and scam artists keep evolving and we need to work even harder to try to at least keep even with them unfortunately.
My Group and I will continue to work to spot and document these mounting threats to the Hobby, as education appears to be our lone weapon in this fight; it is unfortunate that there appears to be little being done to actually curb the tide of bad entering the marketplace…
But I am encouraged contributing future articles on Proxiblog as an expanded means to get the word out!
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The 1971 Doubled Die is an ultra rare variety with several hundred believed to have been struck by the U.S. Mint and released into circulation. It is less popular than the illusive 1969-S DDO, but on par with it as a desired collectible that might still be found in bank rolls and Mint bags, the best places to find uncirculated rare errors and varieties.
Estimates are perhaps 100 or more of the 1971 DDO and its sister, the 1971 DDO FS101 are still out there.
You should be able to see most errors and varieties without a coin microscope and often, without even a loupe. That visibility is what makes them valuable and coveted.
In checking for this error, however, you may need magnification. The doubling is slight and best seen in the words “Liberty” and “In God We Trust.”
Here is a photo from PCGS CoinFacts, illustrating the doubling:
The 1971 DDO FS-101 is even less pronounced. The best place to look for this is in the “G” in “God” and the “I” in “Liberty.”
You would think, given the rarity, that these two double dies would bring skyrocket prices at sale. Not really, again because the doubling is less obvious.
According to PCGS CoinFacts, examples of the 1971 DDO regular strike have sold for under $100 at AU58 and below. Low mint state red brown examples are valued generally under $500 with gem MS65 bringing between $500 and $1,000. However, values soar into the thousands in higher red uncirculated grades. Go to this URL to see current auction sales.
Values for the 1971 DDO FS-101 are somewhat less. You can check out those recent auction sales at this URL.
If you believe you have found one of these two double dies, do get them graded, even if there are details such as cleaning or questionable color. Error collectors readily seek these.
If you are in the market for any rare coins or errors, be sure to purchase ones graded by PCGS, NGC or ANACS. Counterfeits have flooded the market. These days you can buy a fake coin of any rarity. Consider this 1974 aluminum cent, with only one genuine accounted for, as the Mint melted these trial strikes after vending companies complained that they would not work on their machines.
This is a plated example:
Scammers try to sell fake ones from China for thousands of dollars.
Also owning a 1974 trial aluminum cent is illegal in the United States as they were not released for circulation.
If purchasing a rare coin or error, be sure to check the holder’s certification number on those companies websites because China also exports counterfeits in fake slabs. Buy genuine ones from respected coin companies and auction houses like APMEX, GreatCollections and Heritage.
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Scammers have counterfeited coins since ancient times using base metals, diluting precious metal content, reducing weight and diameter, altering dates, adding or deleting mintmarks and making cast copies of struck coins.
This article documents factors that continue to undermine numismatics, discussing top counterfeit coins and how to detect them.
Why is this so important? China exports 100,000 counterfeit coins per month with the capacity now of producing millions more per year, typically sold via Temu and Etsy whose buyers then try to sell them on social media or online auctions.
Before we share details on detecting counterfeits, here’s a history lesson so that you know the current state of the compromised market.
Gold to Goldfish
Before internet, distributing counterfeits took time and effort with many showing up in pawn shops, flea markets, garage sales and estate auctions. Some scammers tried without much luck to sell to coin shops. On occasion, they partnered with unscrupulous coin companies to distribute their fake products.
But there were problems.
In the 1980s and 90s, tens of thousands of hobbyists often read numismatic books and magazines, belonged to coin clubs and attended seminars at coin shows. They were informed. Internet was supposed to educate hobbyists worldwide. Instead, it undercut and then put out of business hundreds of brick-and-mortar shops, eliminating local experts.
As experienced numismatists know, the key to coin collecting is the ability focus to examine condition, flaws and errors. Many lack those skills now.
In the 1970s, attention spans averaged 30 seconds. It the 1990s, it dropped to 15 seconds, falling again in 2000 to 12 seconds. By 2015, it dropped to 8 seconds, below that of your average gold fish, according to Time magazine.
Counterfeiters took advantage of plummeting literacy rates and attention spans. They could easily scam new collectors who lacked numismatic knowledge and just wanted to score an expensive coin at bargain prices. That’s the ruse of internet.
Counterfeiters are improving their craft now with die struck fakes that have authentic die markers. Even experienced hobbyists are scammed by purchasing them. As such, newer collectors should follow these general guidelines:
If you are ready to bid hundreds of dollars on a coin, resist buying a raw one and shop for one holdered by PCGS, NGC, ANACS and CAC.
Be especially careful when purchasing raw coins from eBay and other online venues. TAI bots cannot detect counterfeits, so you are on your own.
Make sure the seller takes returns and has good reviews. Also, the number of positive reviews is a good indicator. If someone has 0 sales or even fewer than 100, do not take a chance.
Weigh the coin and go to PCGS CoinFacts for the date and mintmark, checking your coin against weights and dimensions.
Read this article about detecting counterfeits.
Easy Counterfeit Detection
One of the telltale signs of a Chinese fake is their difficulty in using the correct font when placing their counterfeits in PCGS or NGC holders. They also name the series. The only time grading companies do that is when two coins from different series were minted in the same year, as the 1921 Morgan and 1921 Peace dollar.
Here is an example:
Here is another roadmap to Chinese counterfeits without even examining the coin.
Another issue with Chinese fakes concerns whether they use the correct reverse. For instance, this coin purports to be an 1878-CC Morgan, a valuable coin. But it should have a rounded breast on the eagle and slanted top feather.
Popular Counterfeits
The most difficult fakes to detect are struck coins, using faux dies and alloyed or base metal planchets. The striking mimics the process used by the U.S. Mint, usually resulting in smooth or blurred devices because their machinery is inferior. Edges are particularly difficult to mimic, especially if they are reeded.
Here is an example of a base metal Morgan dollar that weighs 23.3 grams rather than 26.73 grams, according to its owner.
It’s easier to make cast copies, pouring molten metal into a mold made from a real coin. Again, details and devices are imprecise and blurry, often with casting bubbles and uneven thickness.
Coins most apt to be bogus are key dates that spike in value and are relatively easy to fake, adding or deleting a mintmark or designer initials, or altering a date.
Authentic ones from PCGS are displayed below.
The 1909-S VDB Lincoln cent is among the most frequently faked coins. You can take an inexpensive 1909 cent and add an “S” and “V.D.B” initials.
The 1916-D Mercury is an ultra-rarity with only 264,000 minted. All the counterfeiter had to do is acquire an inexpensive 1916 dime and add a mintmark.
The 1914-D cent is simple to fake by adding a mintmark to the 1914 cent or altering the first 4 of a 1944-D cent.
Then there is the key date 1922 no mint mark cent. These were actually struck in Denver. A Mint employee there over polished the dies, resulting in a weak “D” and then missing the “D.” All you need do is smooth by various means a better struck 1922-D, removing the mintmark.
The 1909-S Indian head cent is one of only two Indian cents with mintmarks, the other being the 1908-S. Counterfeiters simply add an “S” to an inexpensive 1909-P.
The same process of adding mintmarks is used for two of the most popular Morgan dollars, the 1889-CC (350,000 minted) and the 1893-S (100,000 minted).
Detecting Fakes
If you suspect your coin is not genuine, it does help to consult an expert. There are many in Facebook coin groups, with my favorite being Jack Young’s “Fun with Fakes.”
First, a little about Young, an engineer and counterfeit expert. He has worked as a consultant to the Secret Service and U.S. Senate Finance Committee and is a well-known numismatic and award-winning author.
If you doubted the introduction of this article about the unsuspecting newbie, join his group and see all the eBay fakes that people buy now directly from China.
Here’s one:
To identify counterfeits, you need to read, just as Young and others have done to enhance their numismatic education. Many recommend the Red Book, or A Guide Book of United States Coins. You can also subscribe to educational numismatic sites such as Proxiblog.org.
Once you have learned from books, groups and websites, you need to master these detecting skills:
Visual inspection
Compare your coin to one graded by a top company, such as PCGS or NGC. I recommend PCGS Gold Shield coins with excellent TrueView photos that you can blow up and study. You can use a coin microscope to view the edges, dates and devices for strike evidence, looking for those casting bubbles or blurry details.
Here’s what I did to show the difference between a fake and real 1893-S Morgan dollar.
Check Metal and Patina
Experienced hobbyists have looked at so many authentic coins that they easily identify base metal ones by the toning of the fields. They know the ping of silver by sound alone. They do not need a magnet to detect base metals, but beginners might purchase one. If it sticks, you’re stuck with a counterfeit.
What to Do if Scammed
If you have purchased a fake coin, contact the seller and return it. Even though eBay has attracted counterfeiters, you might be protected if returns are accepted or if you make a complaint to the company (frequently unsuccessful).
If you used PayPal, you could open a case there.
If you bought the coin from an online auction company, such as found on HiBid.com or LiveAuctioneers, you may not be able to return the coin because auctioneers will insist that all sales are final. Technically, selling a fake is illegal. But good luck threatening and then suing an auctioneer if you have agreed to their service terms. The best you might do is share the Hobby Protection Act, which states:
“The manufacture in the United States, or the importation into the United States, for introduction into or distribution in commerce, or the sale in commerce of any imitation numismatic item which is not plainly and permanently marked ‘copy,’ is unlawful and is an unfair or deceptive act or practice in commerce under the Federal Trade Commission Act.”
In any case, do not try to sell the coin. Take the coin out of hobby circulation and use it as an educational showpiece to enlighten others. You can also report your case to the U.S. Secret Service field office. Finally, join “Fun with Fakes” on Facebook and share your story so that others know the pitfalls of counterfeit coins.
If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack Riley, Jack D. Young and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
If you like posts like this, subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.
You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.
Increasingly on Facebook coin groups, members are posting fake Chinese counterfeits of rare U.S. coins, asking for a value. This post gives you strategies to identify such fakes.
We will start with the heavily faked 1800 silver dollar above, and show you the steps to take to find counterfeits. The process is the same for any date and mint mark.
Some quick tips before methods: Don’t buy coins from Etsy (too many fakes sold there). If prices are too good to be true, they are. Also, stop believing hyped videos like this:
With that out of the way, go to PCGS CoinFacts and look up the weight, diameter and metal composition.
If your coin is lighter or heavier than the 27 grams, or if the diameter is wrong, you have a counterfeit. Use a magnet to test if the coin is a base metal or silver. If the coin sticks to the magnet, it is fake.
Compare the devices of your coin to an authentic one at CoinFacts. I am doing so here with a Facebook photo asking an identifications group for a grade.
Let’s compare:
Space between date and rim is wrong along with the font size/type/spacing of the date. (Also note how the 1 in the date almost touches the hair curl, but doesn’t in the fake.)
Spacing again is too great in the fake coin, and the metal texture isn’t smooth. It’s grainy.
Stars are different.
Space between star and “L” of “Liberty” differs.
Hair is different, too, and spaced awkwardly on the fake. Also, again, font is wrong size/type.
Rim is different. The fake also has a poorly minted collar.
Face, especially the nose, is different and awkward.
Spacing between last 0 and date is off as well as the bust and rim.
There are other red flags in the devices, but we’ll leave it at that.
Also, many Chinese fakes are poured into a mold as opposed to being struck at the mint.
When you ask a Facebook group member to authenticate your coin, or grade it for you, and you are told the truth about it, don’t become angry at the comments. Be angry at the person or site that sold you the fake. Demand your money back.
Read and then cite the U.S. Hobby Act, especially this clause: “An imitation numismatic item which is manufactured in the United States, or imported into the United States for introduction into or distribution in commerce, shall be plainly and permanently marked ‘COPY.'”
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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.
I am a member of several Facebook coin groups, especially ones dedicated to identifying coins, and am startled at how many fakes are on these platforms. More experienced collectors see these coins (all fake above) so many times that they get irked, not only because counterfeits are ruining the hobby, but because posters making inquiries think they have rare coins worth thousands.
Often, more experienced collectors just comment, “Fake,” without explaining why. They should at least cite a few factors, such as “plated,” “China counterfeit,” “Etsy fake,” etc. Others reading comments also learn from experienced collectors. .
There are reasons many such group members refrain from giving detailed information, or worse, answer in a snarky manner. First of all, counterfeit detection requires experience, skill and research. You can find many such sites on the internet. Here’s one by NGC: Counterfeit detection. But a second reason concerns that people posting photos of fake coins aren’t really interested in the hobby. They just want a value, and when told their coins are fake, resist and trigger more rude comments.
That taints the entire group.
So here are SIMPLE ways you can detect a counterfeit. Let’s start with coins in fake PCGS holders:
The Chinese also have a difficult time with fonts.
Another issue with Chinese fakes concerns whether they use the correct reverse. For instance, this coin purports to be an 1889-CC Morgan, a valuable coin. But it should have a rounded breast on the eagle and slanted top feather.
Go to PCGS CoinFacts or another comprehensive site (or Red Book) and look up the year, mint mark and denomination of your coin. Recently a Facebook member asked about the value of an 1846-CC dollar. If you look that year up, you won’t find anything. The Carson City mint started producing coins in 1870.
When you can’t find the year/mint mark in these guides, you have a counterfeit.
When you do identify your coin, look at two measurements: diameter and weight.
You can also test for silver by simply using your ear. It’s called “The Ping Test,” which distinguishes between silver and base metal. Train your ear. Here’s a YouTube video on how to do the test:
Also, many ancient coins are replicas (museum, souvenir pieces) or counterfeits. I just posted about fake shekels of Tyre, a much sought after coin, because it is believed Judas Iscariot received this in the 30 pieces of silver story in the Bible.
Knowing die markers for rarities, which are often faked, is essential when purchasing or commenting online. Proxiblog has expert counterfeit contributors who regularly use die markers not only to identify authentic coins but also fake ones. Here are some of their articles:
Once again, this counterfeit family reminds me to advise newer collectors to follow these general guidelines:
If you are ready to bid hundreds of dollars on a coin, resist buying a raw one and shop for one holdered by PCGS, NGC, ANACS and CAC.
Be especially careful when purchasing raw coins from eBay and other online venues. TAI bots cannot detect counterfeits, so you are on your own.
Make sure the seller takes returns and has good reviews. Also, the number of positive reviews is a good indicator. If someone has 0 sales or even fewer than 100, do not take a chance.
Weigh the coin and go to PCGS CoinFacts for the date and mintmark, checking your coin against weights and dimensions.
Subscribe to Proxiblog.org
If you are ready to bid hundreds of dollars on a coin, resist buying a raw one and shop for one holdered by PCGS, NGC, ANACS and CAC.
Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups and other social media venues. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.
You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.
