Dubiously Illusive 1969-S DDO

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It’s theoretically possible to find one of these ultra error rarities in pocket change. It’s also theoretically possible for you to buy the winning Powerball ticket at the corner store that gave you the pocket change.

In any case, you should know the die markers for this illusive ultra rarity, the 1969-S DDO.

Thirty years ago, a New York hobbyist discovered one while searching through an uncirculated roll. Some 14 years later, another collector bought two 1969-S rolls from a coin dealer and found one double die in each roll. Another hobbyist found one in 2010.

Since then, PCGS has since graded 31 such coveted coins.

If you are dead-set at searching for this rarity, your best bet would be unsearched mint state rolls of the year, date and mint mark. Keep in mind that those rolls also are scarce and typically already have been looked at and re-rolled.

Nevertheless, you should know what the diagnostics look like before posting that you found this ultimate cent rarity, which sells for tens of thousands of dollars, (compliments of PCGS CoinFacts):

The story about this famous coin includes a major counterfeiting ring. Roy Gray and Morton Goodman produced fake 1969 double dies as well as other rare coins before the genuine one was discovered. As Jamie Hernandez writes on the PCGS website, Gray and Goodman began manufacturing this dubious double die, trying to get them sold:

“Gray contacted a collector by the name of Robert Teitelbaum and asked him to market the illegal coins. One of the first fake cents sold for $100. Later, Teitelbaum sold 2900 of the fake 1969 Doubled Die Obverse cents to Sam Jowdy for $92,000 (slightly more than $30 each). Gray asked Teitelbaum to place 85 fake 1969 doubled die cents into circulation in Washington. Instead, Teitelbaum turned over the 85 coins to the Secret Service.”

Gray and Goodman each received a two-year federal prison sentence.

You can buy modern replicas, counterfeits and low-value machine doubled examples via social media. Here’s an example selling for less than $3 on Etsy:

These also often turn up on eBay at fantastic prices, banking on your not knowing numismatics. Sometimes sellers just pretend to have one for sale, as in the example below:

This person bought an Etsy DDO and posted it on Facebook Coin Groups. All you need to do is compare diagnostics with the replica v. the authentic version.

Before you claim to have found this famous double die, read what error expert John A. Wexler has to say about all those machine doubled cents being passed off as the genuine coin:

Collectors also need to be aware that numerous 1969-S Lincoln cents have been found that show the common form of doubling known as mechanical doubling.  These frequently confuse collectors into thinking that they have the major doubled die variety.  Mechanical doubling is characterized by flat, shelf-like secondary images that usually affect the date and mint mark.  When both the date and the mint mark show the same type of doubling, you can be relatively sure that you do not have the major doubled die variety.  

Wexler’s Coins and Errors

Wexler also gives great diagnostics that you should also check:

I highly recommend visiting his site any time you believe to have found a double die or mint error. Wexler also regularly updates new finds. Click here for that.

Finally, the so-called “floating roof” 1969-S DDR was caused by allowing a worn die pair to continue production after vigorous die polishing at the mint. They typically sell for less than $10 as an oddity due to the creative name. Yet some sellers offer these coins for thousands on eBay, sparking new collectors to search for this faux error coin. Here’s an example:

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

The futile hunt for ultra rarities

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Every day in Facebook coin groups there is the ridiculous hunt for ultra rare errors–1992/92-D Close AM, 1982-D Small Date bronze cent, 1983/83-D bronze cents–with members continuously believing they have struck it rich and found valuable flaws.

These posts try the patience of hobbyists who want to promote coin collecting. Clickbaiters on social media continue to emphasize how easily these rarities can be found in pocket change, no less.

Here’s an example:

Also, while we are at it, there is no collector market for minor errors like broad struck, struck through grease, machine doubling, minor hub doubling, etc. You are never going to find the 1982-D Small Date 3.1 grams. It was theorized decades ago, and a few found some. Collectors have been searching for decades before counterfeiters sold their wares on Etsy.

Some clickbait-inspired collectors are so frustrated that they have found means to claim they have found a rarity. One Facebook coin group member photographed the obverse of a 1992-D Wide AM with the reverse of a common 1996-D Close AM–two coins in the same high-grade condition–and then claimed he found the rarity.

Recently, someone claimed to have been informed by PCGS that he not only found a 1982-D bronze small date but also an error on it in addition, qualifying as a new discovery. Proxiblog demonstrated how someone can use ChatGPT to create a fake email from PCGS affirming just about anything you wish. Click here for the article.

Here’s an example that Proxiblog created:

Nevertheless, newbie collectors continue their futile searches. They go to eBay and see ridiculous listings. See examples below with the real condition followed by the eBay scam exaggeration:

POST MINT DAMAGE: Face Value

WEAR: Face Value

STRUCK THROUGH GREASE: $25

COPPER COATED ZINC: Face Value

And then we get the dozen or so posts per day claiming to have found the 1982-D Small Date transitional error at 3.1 grams. Note, too, that the seller says “errors” without designating any. He even betrays himself by weighing the coin for all to see:

Coin collecting is not exclusively about finding errors and rare varieties. Valuable ones have been found decades ago, such as the 1955 double die obverse cent.

The value of the hobby is the hobby. Coin collecting is expensive. Smart collectors admire the design, the luster, the history, the metal–7 things that make coins valuable.

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You can find more information about grading, scams, and bidding and buying on eBay in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

The Hunt for “W” Mint Mark Quarters

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The hunt for West Point quarters promotes the hobby of coin collecting with real incentives to search for 2019/2020 “America The Beautiful National Park” W-mint examples often found in pocket change and quarter rolls.

In 2019, the holdering company PCGS stoked collector interest in offering a $5,000 reward for the first Lowell West Point Mint Mark Quarter sent in for grading, promising special labels for those submitting this coin for grading in the first 45 days of the initial discovery.

In April 2019, PCGS wrote: “Two avid coin collectors, one in Kansas and the other in Virginia, have agreed to split the $5,000 bounty offered by Professional Coin Grading Service (www.PCGS.com) for almost simultaneously submitting the first 2019 ‘America the Beautiful’ Lowell National Historical Park quarter-dollars with a West Point mint mark. Both submissions arrived on the same day at PCGS headquarters.”

The West Point Mint, typically used to strike silver dollars, produced 10 2019/2020 W-Mint Mark Quarters with a meager mintage of 2,000,000 for each coin of each year. This is an incredibly low mintage for the Washington Quarter series, with only the 1937-S Quarter with a mintage of 1,652,000 within the same low range.

Moreover, the Mint mixed up the W-mint quarters with ones from Philadelphia and Denver, tempting collectors to find them in pocket change.

Ever since, social media–especially YouTube and TikTok–have hyped the value of these coins in numerous videos. Here’s one of them:

You also will find videos and posts promising hundreds and thousands of dollars for a W-mint quarter. That is for super high grade examples such as MS67+ or even MS68. Again these rank as condition rarities, and only a handful have ever graded at that high level.

Nevertheless, the W-mint quarters have some real hobbyist potential.

Here are retail values for each year:

Keep in mind that these retail values are for PCGS graded coins at MS65. The cost of grading almost always will be as much as the value of the coin. Auction hammer prices are typically two-thirds of the retail values. Also if you find a W-mint quarter in pocket change, technically it is considered circulated. That said, you can find near gem examples distributed mistakenly from rolls or deposited in banks from stores and coin machines.

You will find highly exaggerated “buy now” examples on eBay, like this one with a few bag marks from circulation:

Always check the “sold” button on eBay. If you do, you will find that ungraded 10-coin sets of W-mint mark quarters sell typically for between $150-200.

If you are going to spend time roll and coin hunting, the search for W-mint quarters is worth the time and hobbyist fun.

Finally, if you would like a video version of this article, with more information, see:

2019/2020 West Point Mint Quarters

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Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups and other social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Spend (don’t spend?) Bicentennial quarters

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New coin collectors schooled on social media, such as YouTube and TikTok, have seen dozens of videos claiming that these Bicentennial Quarters are rare and valuable, but can still be found in pocket change. In almost all cases, this is wrong, hyped and wastes hobbyist time. But there is still some incentive to keep searching.

These are the various types of Bicentennial Quarters.

  • 1975-76 Philadelphia business strike, 75% copper, 25% nickel with copper center. Diameter: 24.30 millimeters. Weight: 5.67 grams. Mintage: 809,784,016.
  • 1975-76 Denver business strike, 75% copper, 25% nickel with copper center. Diameter: 24.30 millimeters. Weight: 5.67 grams. Mintage: 860,118,839.
  • 1975-76 San Francisco business strike, 40% silver, 60% copper. Diameter: 24.30 millimeters. Weight: 5.75 grams. Mintage: 11,000,000.
  • 1975-76 San Francisco clad proof strike,  75% copper, 25% nickel over a pure copper center. Diameter: 24.30 millimeters. Weight: 5.67 grams. Mintage: 7,059,099.
  • 1975-76 San Francisco proof strike, 40% silver, 60% copper. Diameter: 24.30 millimeters. Weight: 5.75 grams. Mintage: 11,000,000.

Videos like this one, although mostly accurate, tend to exaggerate the extreme rarities (this one states the silver variety is 80% silver rather than 40%).

As you can see from mintages above, you’re apt only to find the clad Philadelphia and Denver clad business strikes, as there are more than 1.6 billion of these. Almost all of them in pocket change will be these, and because they are already circulated, they are typically only worth face value. True, some MS67+ and MS68 highest grade examples are worth hundreds and even thousands of dollars, but in all the years of grading, PCGS has only holdered 4 MS67+ and 1 MS68. An MS67 is only worth about $50, about the cost of grading.

You will have better luck finding a PR70 Clad or Silver Proof example, and they sell for about $100-160 in that top condition at Deep Cameo (heavily frosted). Hundreds of them are available graded by top holdering companies.

In other words, the hunt for extreme condition rarities will likely be fruitless, a waste of hobbyist time. That said, if you have time to waste, forget finding one of these rarities in pocket change. But it will be useful to inspect each Bicentennial Quarter to see if someone dumped a silver business or proof strike at the bank. Look at the edge. If you see no copper, you have a silver melt coin.

If you find any one of these minted on the wrong planchet, sure, you will have a valuable coin. There are other mint errors but these are even scarcer than top grade examples. In any case, keep diameter and weight in mind as you compare your error coin to the Mint standard.

Now for the question: Spend or not.?

Because people saved these Bicentennial Quarters, hoping they will be worth something some day, tens of thousands of such coins may be untouched in your or handed-down collections. Grading is expensive (see this post) so proceed with caution if you want to holder your seemingly flawless coin.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Identifying Full Bands on Roosevelt Dimes

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The coin above, safe in my bank box, graded MS67FB, a high designation bringing a $50 premium due to strike, retailing at $130. (The lovely patina will bring hundreds more.) To earn the coveted full bands label, the coin must be a business strike, uncirculated with full separation minus any disruption (bagmark, cuts, scratch, etc.) on the upper and lower horizontal bands of the torch.

This equally lovely 1960-D Roosevelt did not earn the FB designation, coming in also at MS67. Do you see why it failed?

My 1960-D dime value is $55. A portion of the lower band shows a tiny break in the bands on the right. Otherwise it would be worth $375. Compare it now to the full bands designation of the 1958-D so that you can discern the subtle differences.

You want to seek full bands on all Roosevelt dimes. However, these may bring the highest premiums, according to PCGS: 1949-S, 1955-S, 1958, 1965, and 1994-D. To compare, an MS67 1949-D without full bands is worth $110 while with full bands is valued at $850.

The same premiums hold true for the full bands designation on Mercury dimes. You can read about that here.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Identifying “full bands” on Mercury dimes

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The Full Bands (FB) or Full Split Bands (FSB) designation refers to the two bands on the reverse torch. They should be split with lines without any break, an indication of a strong strike. Proof coins are assumed to have split bands. Business strikes, however, may not.

This is how PCGS defines Full Bands:

“The bands on a Mercury Dime are found within the fasces design element, serving as the main reverse device that resembles a bundle of sticks and an axe wrapped within vines of olive leaves. Binding all these elements together are the bands, which are shown as three sets of twin belts. The Full Bands designation is granted to Mercury Dimes in which the central (middle) set of bands shows a complete split in the middle.”

Here is an example of split bands from one of my dimes.

Mercury dimes with split bands command higher prices. For instance, an MS65 1927 dime retails for $175. One with the FB designation is worth $400 more.

Here’s the reverse of a 1927 dime being offered on HiBid. The seller states that this is full bands.

It’s somewhat difficult to tell from this photo without enlarging the photo, which I did with an app:

With the enlarged photo, I can tell this is not full bands. The left side is mushy with breaks in the lines.

The search for full bands in Mercury dimes is a great way to spend your hobby time rather than look for so-called errors that click-baiters hype on social media. Go through the series and identify years and mint marks that bring premiums. Others may not have that grading skill.

Case in point: In a recent HiBid auction, I spotted this 1945 dime being offered in a lower-tier slab. This is the holy grail of full bands in the series, worth $10,000 at MS63. At MS67, the coin retails for $65,000.

I looked at the photos and won the coin with a $120 bid.

The obverse of this coin actually may be MS67, although I think it will grade MS66:

Here’s the reverse:

I am sending the coin raw to PCGS and will inform you later about the grade. I don’t think it will earn full bands because the lines are slightly broken in the middle of the bands. Nevertheless, with a nearly complete full bands on this coin, it should sell for hundreds of dollars because of the demand for this coveted designation on the 1945-P coin.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Full Bell Lines on Franklin Halves

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Hobbyists can easily assemble a full set, business strike and proof, of the Franklin half dollar series, 1948-1963. But it is especially difficult (and expensive) to collect the complete business set with full bell lines. Now that’s a challenge for everyone.

To give you perspective, a complete date and mint set at gem MS65 retails at $3,271. With full band lines, the price soars to $41,205.

Let’s define and identify the Full Bell Lines designation.

PCGS Full Bell Lines (FBL) designation requires fully separated, uninterrupted lines at the bottom of the Liberty Bell on the reverse. The lower sets of horizontal lines on the bell must be complete and distinct. To qualify, coins must grade MS-60 or higher, with no major disruptions to the lines, which also must be free from major cuts, heavy marks, or disturbances.

I’ll share one of my FBL halves and show you where to look with a white circle:

The horizontal lines must be clear and readable. Let’s take a closer look at another FBL half:

You have to know how to identify FBL if you bid on or buy Franklin halves. Here’s an obvious inaccurate description on eBay:

Here’s another with lines broken, eliminating the designation.

As of late, due to social media, particularly Facebook, TikTok and YouTube, new collectors spend hours searching for get-rich-quick coins, such as the 1982-D Small Date transitional error or the 1943 copper cent. Odds are you’ll never find them, although the search does train the eye for grading.

A better way to spend hobby time is to look for Full Bell Lines. Access Red Book or PCGS CoinFacts to see which years offer the best return in gem. Basically, you want to search all the “S” mint marks as San Francisco had a difficult time getting strong strikes on their production. Later 1960s FBL also bring great premiums.

Here is one that is often overlooked, the 1963, which sells for $35 MS65 and $1,750 MS65 FBL. This PCGS example, graded MS66+ FBL, retails for $85,000.

True, you may never own such a marvelous coin. But if you know how to identify full bell lines, you won’t be scammed by false eBay or consignor definitions and, on occasion, can find FBL with the seller not realizing the designation.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Small v. Large Motto, 1864 2 Cent

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The 1864 two cent piece has two varieties, small and large. The small motto was a prototype. Mint chief engraver James B. Longacre modified it for better strike quality, creating the large motto.

Many hobbyists, even experienced collectors, may not know how to tell the difference between the two varieties.

There are two key differences: The “We” in “God We Trust” is further from the rim of the ribbon than the large date “We.” But more importantly, the small motto has a stem on the leaf. The large motto doesn’t have that stem and the “We” is closer to the rim of the ribbon.

Values are decidedly different, with small motto worth more than $200 in Good 4 as opposed to $25 for the large motto. Values accelerate to $800 in XF40 for small motto and $90 for large motto. Small motto values are in the thousands in mint state.

The U.S. Mint discontinued the two-cent piece (1864–1873) maintaining it was temporary, wartime coinage. Also, the nickel was introduced in 1866 and became more popular as a denomination.

The key dates of the short-lived series include 1873 proof, 600-1,100 minted; the 1872, 65,000 minted; and the 1864 Small Motto variety, no official mintage data available.

The history of the motto is special in numismatics, making this coin a popular collectible.

“In God We Trust” became the U.S. national motto in 1956, but its roots lie in Civil War-era religious revivals, enjoining the deity to help the country endure the bloodbath that was to occur in the wake of war.

Petitions started in 1861, and popular opinion was loud enough to engage the U.S. government.

Rev. M.R. Watkinson of Pennsylvania wrote to Treasury Secretary Salmon P. Chase, requesting that God be recognized on U.S. coins as a means for divine protection and guidance.

Here are excerpts of Watkinson’s letter.

“Dear Sir: You are about to submit your annual report to the Congress respecting the affairs of the Union. … What if our Republic of ours should be shattered? Would not the antiquaries of succeeding centuries rightly reason from our past that we were a heathen nation? … This would make a beautiful coin, to which no possible citizen could object.”

Chase agreed, and “In God We Trust” was adopted by the U.S.. Mint with its first appearance on the two cent coin in 1864.

Although Watkinson is credited for inspiring the motto, it actually was drawn from the 4th stanza of the Star-Spangled Banner lyrics.

Then conquer we must, when our cause it is just,
And this be our motto – “In God is our trust,”
And the star-spangled banner in triumph shall wave
O’er the land of the free and the home of the brave.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Susan B. Anthony’s Three Top Varieties

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The Susan B. Anthony series was short-lived (1979-99), comprising 12 business and 7 proof strikes, all easily obtained, with a complete business set retailing for $336 and proof set, $131. Those figures include the varieties.

The unpopular series was ended because many people mistook the dollar coin for a quarter.

Assembling a business and proof set is a great project for a new hobbyist. But veteran ones might pursue three varieties: 1979 narrow and wide rim, business and proof, and 1981 Types I and II proof.

Here’s how to spot the varieties.

1979 Narrow and Wide Rim, Business and Proof

As the names indicate, the difference between the varieties concerns how close the date is to the rim.

Photo compliments of PCGS CoinFacts.

PCGS values for MS65 coins are $22, narrow, $55, wide. As for proof strikes, the same year and design at deep cameo runs $6 for narrow and $30, wide. Obviously, you want to search for the wide variety.

1981, Type I and II, Proof

Below are the proof varieties for 1981, Type I and II. Look at the mint mark “S” with Type II appearing more bulbous with thicker serif.

Type I at PR65 deep cameo retails for $6 and Type 2, $75. So again, you seek that Type II. As you can see, this is the key date variety for the entire series.

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Buy from sellers who accept returns

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Grading is a science that requires years of practice because each issue has its own quirky devices complicated by dozens of flaws that decrease value and render the coin as non-gradeworthy or particularly valuable.

I have been collecting for 58 years. When purchasing raw coins online, I buy from eBay than from online and estate auctions, primarily because I can return the item if I discover a flaw that was not apparent with the posted photo.

Buying from eBay comes with its own distinct risks. An example:

I saw what I thought was a pristine quarter being offered for $38 or best offer on eBay, a 1951-S coin worth $160 in MS67 and $1000 in MS67+. Even though I knew that $38 seemed like a great deal, I won the coin with an offer of $34. (Always offer lower than asked.)

Here is the coin as listed on eBay (with an added photo of reverse):

I knew and trusted the seller, having bought from him in the past. He even included a video of this coin in the original listing. The video also did not reveal the flaw.

Let’s take another close-up view of the coin:

Can you spot the flaw? I couldn’t because the photo unintentionally obscures it.

When I got the coin, I realized it had the so-called “Ring of Death” in the right field. Here’s my photo showing the flaw, which I had to include in my return to qualify for the reimbursement:

I had a choice to keep the coin and consign it, knowing I would get my money back and more from a buyer without a high-level of grading experience. The machine damage here is faint but there, and graders at PCGS or NGC would see it immediately. So instead of consigning it I returned the item.

I share this anecdote to illustrate the hidden dangers of buying coins from the Internet. Unscrupulous sellers PhotoShop their coins. Here’s an example:

Looking at this eBay seller’s inventory, any knowledgeable hobbyist would realize that these virtually flawless Morgan dollars (including others inventory) are too good to be true. In the coin-buying business, the general rule is, “If it looks too good to be true, it probably has been PhotoShopped.”

These examples illustrate why grading knowledge is essential before you invest heavily in buying coins. If you have such skill, or not, be sure to patronize sellers who accept returns. Typically you cannot return any coins if won on HiBid, LiveAuctioneers, Proxibid, etc. In addition, you’ll be paying mailing, buying and handling fees.

If you don’t yet know how to grade with precision, please invest in holdered coins from PCGS, NGC, ANACS and CAC.

I hope that this post encourages viewers to spend their time learning how to grade rather than looking for rare errors like the 1992/1992-D Close AM, the 1943 copper cent, the 1982-D Small Date transitional error, the 1983/1983-D transitional error and other click-bait strike-it-rich posts on TikTok, Google, Etsy and social media.

That is a waste of hobbyist time.

If you like posts like this, subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups and other social media venues. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.