Only a handful of 1992/92-D Close AM coins have been found in the past decades, making these high-value variations extremely desired and also relatively easy to dupe both the buyer and eBay (when sellers do not accept returns). In the video below, Proxiblog’s Michael Bugeja shows how a person can photograph the obverse of a typical 1992/92-D Wide AM and the reverse of a 1993-2000 Close AM and depict them side by side as if one coin.
Now comes the hard part for the unfortunate buyer. He receives a 1992/92-D Wide AM. He may not know the die markers (disclosed in the video) or he may, leaving him with the distressing chore of trying to explain die markers to eBay when the seller doesn’t accept returns. While arguing counterfeit with eBay sometimes works, good luck when it comes to die markers. This is why Proxiblog recommends never buying or bidding on unholdered rarities.
Author Archives: Michael Bugeja
Venus, a Comet, and Caesar’s Assassination

A few months after Julius Caesar was assassinated on the Ides of March 44 BC, a comet streaked through the skies, making him a god in his followers’ eyes.
Some historical background: On March 15, the great Roman statesman and reformer, Gaius Julius Caesar, was assassinated. The historical record notes his military brilliance as well as his less popular role in ending the Roman Republic.
The celestial object, now known as Caesar’s Comet (C/-43 K1), appeared in July of that year and was seen as a sign Caesar’s deification.
The brilliant comet was visible for seven days. Romans interpreted the cosmic event as a sign that Caesar’s soul was ascending into the heavens and that he had joined the gods and Venus mother–a reference by the Roman poet Ovid.

Ovid describes the deification in Book 15 of his epic poem, Metamorphoses. In the passage, Venus takes Caesar’s spirit from his murdered body and carries it to the heavens, where she transforms it into a star.
This provided a propaganda occasion for Caesar’s adopted son, Octavian (who later became Emperor Augustus). He claimed to be a son of the now god Caesar, legitimizing his own rise to power.
The recognition had been put in place by Caesar before his death.
By placing Venus’s image on coins during his lifetime, Caesar had already reinforced his divine right to rule. Here are representative coins featured in a Coin Week article.

By imitating Caesar’s use of Venus in his own coinage, Octavian symbolically inherited not just his father’s name and legacy, but also his divine mandate.
Collectors covet these coins because of the heavenly history. They are pricey, too, because of the demand. Here is a retail example:

As with all coins, the marketplace is full of counterfeits. This is especially prevalent with Caesar’s military coins. His “Elephant” silver Denarius, minted circa 49–48 BC, typically weighs between 3.5 and 4.0 grams (commonly cited around 3.78g to 3.98g) and has a diameter of roughly 18mm.
eBay is full of counterfeits, especially from China and Bulgaria. Etsy and Temu offer these as replicas and they have flooded the market as authentic with scammers counting on buyers not understanding how to detect fakes.

If you are unfamiliar with ancient coins, only purchase ones slabbed by NGC (the best for ancients):

If you do not know ancient coins and want to add a Caesar coin to your collection, bid on or buy an example holdered by NGC. Also note these attributes of fake ones:
- Seams: A genuine ancient Roman coin was struck between two metal dies, not cast in a mold. Counterfeit coins that are cast often have a raised line or seam on the edge.
- Soft details: Cast fakes tend to have a soft, “soapy,” or indistinct appearance, especially in the fine details of the portrait and lettering. Genuine struck coins show a much sharper impression, even if worn.
- Uneven surface: Pores or small bumps on the coin’s surface can indicate that it was cast. These marks are caused by trapped air bubbles in the mold during the casting process.
- Weight and size: Casting can cause metal to shrink. As a result, cast fakes are often slightly smaller and lighter than their genuine counterparts.
- Artificial patina: Forgers often apply a chemical patina to make a coin look ancient.
Consider the difference between a genuine and fake Venus Caesar coin:

If you are interested in ancient coins, visit the portal Vcoins.
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Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and social media. To get the latest discussion and commentaries, click here.
You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Fake 1918 Half: “Ruptured ‘N’ Family”

By Jack Riley
A counterfeit 1918 Half Dollar–part of what I refer to as the “Ruptured N Family”–has been documented for several years and recently surfaced on Facebook, prompting this article. As is common with many modern counterfeits, the piece displays grainy surfaces, raised lumps within the fields, and design elements that appear inconsistent with genuine examples and poorly executed.

Another example offered online from a non-reputable source.

A comparison of the obverses show repeating marks with a prominent depression of the “N” and a noticeable dent in the lower gown.

Of course, this would not be considered a “family” without additional dates. Evidence suggests a large-scale operation, with counterfeiters mixing and matching both obverse and reverse dies. Notably the 1920 and 1947 dated examples also display the distinctive large dot on the sun (highlighted in red).


Given the mix of various date and mintmark combinations, I did not provide an overview of the reverses, as they differ significantly. On the obverse, however, two consistent diagnostics are always present.

Once again, this counterfeit family reminds me to advise newer collectors to follow these general guidelines:
- If you are ready to bid hundreds of dollars on a coin, resist buying a raw one and shop for one holdered by PCGS, NGC, ANACS and CAC.
- Be especially careful when purchasing raw coins from eBay and other online venues. TAI bots cannot detect counterfeits, so you are on your own.
- Make sure the seller takes returns and has good reviews. Also, the number of positive reviews is a good indicator. If someone has 0 sales or even fewer than 100, do not take a chance.
- Weigh the coin and go to PCGS CoinFacts for the date and mintmark, checking your coin against weights and dimensions.
- Read this article about detecting counterfeits.
If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack Riley, Jack D. Young and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
Proxiblog also has hundreds of followers on Facebook Coin Groups. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.
You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Photoshopped OGH Morgans
To this day, many Morgan Dollar collectors believe coins in Old Green PCGS holders were under-graded. PCGS in the 1980s was inconsistent in its grading. True, many coins were graded a point or even two points under where they would be today. But then almost as many were accurately graded according to current standards. However, because so many people believe OGH Morgans are under-graded, several eBay sellers have been photoshopping their OGH wares, especially since the older PCGS number doesn’t also result in a TrueView photo where flaws can be readily seen.
Even though we discovered these doctored examples, knowing how the process is done can help you with any coin, especially Morgans with its generous fields.
Using a tool on Photoshop, you can easily turn an MS64 coin into a supergem:

I did that with this coin:

While it is common knowledge that eBay sellers in particular often doctor their coins, removing flaws with photo-apps, Proxiblog calls attention to this practice with PCGS green holders. Book author Scott Travers, and others, have touted OGH coins as under-graded. If you believe that, you are also apt to believe the Photoshopped coin can be resubmitted for an upgrade.
Not.
One of our followers, Craig Frick, brought this practice to our attention with this doctored photo:

You have heard the phrase, “Buy the coin, not the holder.” That is especially true with Old Green Holders.
One final point. If you collect Morgan dollars, you must know how to grade. See this article for instructions. Otherwise you will likely be scammed at one time or another by unethical sellers as profiled here and elsewhere on Proxiblog.
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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Another Peace Dollar Counterfeit: “Dotted Rays”

By Jack Riley
Another group of counterfeit Peace Dollars has surfaced. During my routine browsing of various Facebook groups and online marketplaces, I frequently encounter counterfeit examples of various series. In one of the larger groups, a 1928 Peace Dollar was shared with many commenters claiming this to be genuine and stating it “should be certified”. At first glance the overall appearance is that of many modern cast counterfeits. This prompted me to investigate further.

Several weeks ago, I was contacted by my colleague Dave Jordan, regarding a counterfeit 1928 Peace Dollar we had the opportunity to examine. At the time, I hadn’t documented this particular counterfeit. The recent example of another specimen, however, suggests that there are additional pieces in the market.

Upon comparison,it became evident that both examples originated from the same counterfeit family , which I refer to as the “Dotted Rays.” Several repeating marks are consistently present on the reverse, highlighted in green for reference :
- Two dent in the ray below A of Dollar
- Diagonal slash through C of Peace
- Depression in U of UNUM

This wouldn’t be a “family” with just one date. Following the search yielded at least 2 additional dates (1922 and 1927). Both of which share the “Dotted Rays reverse.”

I recognize that examining these markers in detail can be challenging. To assist readers, I have prepared a collage of close-up images highlighting the key diagnostics.

I share the news about these counterfeit dollars because you can lose many dollars bidding and buying them, only to find out later that you have been scammed.
In Proxiblog’s recent article about bidding online, titled “Bidding Basics,” we recommend working only with trusted sellers, especially on eBay, making sure you can return your purchases.
If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack D. Young, Jack Riley and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and other venues. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.
You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Numismatic Ethics: Yes, We Have Them. Do you?

Let’s test your ethics: You go into a coin shop with a rare variety–say, a 1900-O/CC Morgan Dollar –but do not realize you have the overmintmark. You think it is just an almost uncirculated 1900-O. The price difference is significant at AU55: 1900-O, $65; 1900-O/CC, $450.
You don’t know that, either.
What should an ethical dealer do? If he belongs to the Professional Numismatists Guild, he must be truthful in “correctly grading and describing a coin’s condition, authenticity, and other material facts.” That means coin dealers should inform you about the overmintmark and pay wholesale price for the coin, roughly $385.
Now let’s switch roles. You are at a coin show and spot a dealer with a 1900-O Morgan selling for $75. Because you know varieties, you recognize this as a 1900-O/CC overmintmark. The dealer doesn’t. What should you do?
Give it some thought. We’ll revisit this scenario at the end of this article.
Let’s Talk Ethics
In addition to being a numismatist, I am a top ethicist with several books by Oxford University Press and other research publications.

I am concerned about the reputation of our hobby. We are coping with untold numbers of counterfeits, replicas, scams, social media hype, coin app hallucinations, microscope obsessions, and phishing expeditions, ruining the good name of coin collecting.
So I had an immediate negative reaction recently when I saw this post:

The author’s gloating about the price upset me as much as the “steal,” paying less than a dollar for a $40 coin. It prompted me to take a hard stance on his ethics, advising him to return it to the manager of Goodwill and let them know about the value.
He disagreed snarkily.
His feed erupted with others posting laughing emojis on my comment and most supporting the gloating buyer and denigrating Goodwill’s business practices. No one expressed concern about what he did.
I took a screenshot of the post, putting it on my feed. I was among friends here. But again, there was dissent.
To be sure, most agreed with me but some also criticized Goodwill, saying it deserves to be cheated. Some supported the gloating buyer because it was Goodwill’s responsibility–not his–to know what it had.
In ethics, this is known as “justification,” saying an action is okay–not because it is ethical–but because of distaste for the victim/loser (aka Goodwill).
So let’s eliminate Goodwill and restate the issue: What if the coin was in a Lutheran Church rummage sale?

Would you pay less than a buck for it … or tell the minister? If you yielded to temptation and took the coin, would you brag on Facebook that you effectively “stole” a $40 coin from a church?
This is known as situational ethics: it depends who the victim/loser is. Goodwill? Serves them right! Lutheran Church? Sure, but not Catholic. You get the idea.
Journalism embraces situational ethics. That’s not very encouraging. Some 36% of U.S. adults have no trust at all in the media with another 33% expressing “not very much” confidence.

So if you distrust the media and feel similarly, maybe you also should reconsider situational ethics. It’s never been very popular.
What about business ethics? Some remarked that Goodwill had the responsibility to know what it had. In other words, the seller should know the value of merchandise. If not, all bets are off.
Business ethics are about as popular as journalism ethics.

A significant portion of consumers actively consider and prioritize ethical practices in their purchasing decisions, with many willing to boycott brands that act unethically or pay more for products from ethically-minded companies.
Let’s talk about the Hobby
The topic here is “numismatic” ethics. There are three entities: buyer, seller, hobby.

Coin collecting doesn’t have a stellar reputation, either. First off, the industry is self-regulated. Those new to the hobby are particularly at risk of being taken advantage of by unscrupulous dealers who may rely on a buyer’s inexperience. Dealers must buy coins for less than they sell them to cover overhead. This prompts some to low-ball people, especially ones selling inherited collections.
Let’s Test Your Ethics
Remember the scenario mentioned at the beginning of this article? You know that a dealer has an 1900-O/CC rarity worth $450. But he hasn’t noticed the overmintmark and is selling the Morgan for $75.
Many will argue it is the dealer’s responsibility to know the value of their wares. After all, he is the seller and an expert. If he misses the overmintmark, fair game.
Not according to numismatic ethics.
You have three are choices:
- Keep silent and buy the coin for $75. This is not considered ethical by most collectors. It exploits the dealer’s lack of knowledge for a significant personal gain and damages the reputation of the hobby.
- Inform the dealer of the variety and offer a fair price. This is the most ethical approach. It builds trust within the numismatic community and demonstrates honesty.
- Inform the dealer, but walk away. True, the collector misses out on a “steal,” but they have acted with integrity and respected the dealer’s right to full information.
Note again that there are three parties here: The customer, the dealer and the hobby.
Even Numismatic Nancy knows that:

Numismatic ethics requires us to use coin knowledge to inform others, not to to take advantage of them, including dealers. Even in online and estate auctions, I not only identify counterfeits for the seller but also varieties that they might have missed.
We embrace ethics to uphold the integrity of the hobby community of which we all are a part.
A “New” 1898-S not-PCGS Morgan Dollar

By Jack D. Young
I have written a number of articles in several different venues about a scourge of counterfeit Morgan Dollars in fake “PCGS” holders including here on Proxiblog.
The subject of this short article features a newly discovered example and a known bad eBay seller and his other wares…
First, the bad seller. His 2 listings at this writing on the Bay are known bad ones including the stolen PCGS certification numbers:


Both were reported through their latest AI reporting process and removed.
His next one was previously sold last month and unfortunately, I missed it. The seller is now in a more prominent place on my bad seller list for periodic review.
And back a minute, the original source of these bad “coins” is actually in China (CN), and I continue to record new examples introduced to the marketplace in one of my Facebook Groups focused on counterfeits. And this one just hit my list this first week of September.
So, let’s review what makes this new one a counterfeit!
This one was sold as genuine, and someone got severely burned but apparently doesn’t know it:

Holy crap Batman, $786.01 for a counterfeit Morgan in a fake PCGS slab!

OK, we all say, “buy the coin, not the holder”; but I will start with the obvious, the holder. …

I know Proxiblog’s Michael Bugeja may have a comment, especially about fonts, as he is a journalist (wrong font again here for PCGS); but there also are a couple of “easy” observations without this one in hand.

There is no PCGS insignia in the lower right-hand corner, and the barcode is common gibberish for these: it will not read with my on-line scanner.
Similar ones I have in-hand have the “PCGS” label stuck to the outside of the slab and won’t scan. And the notion it has a scannable chip shown on the reverse is false as well.
And what about the “coin”?
One place I always start is looking for the TPG cert number on-line for any descriptions and images!
And this example uses a genuine PCGS cert # with on-line genuine images:

And comparing the genuine example to the counterfeit reverse shows some obvious differences.


Images of the genuine certed example on the left, subject counterfeit on the right
The “S” is an obvious issue with this one; many of the current CN counterfeits use a common reverse which is one of the reasons I often start with the reverse on this type of counterfeit.
At first blush I can say I have not seen this specific reverse previously, but that will be another research project going forward.
For completeness I have also included an obverse comparison image of the genuine certed one to this one. The date font and surface scratches show as major differences between the two.

Images of the genuine certed example are on the left, and the subject counterfeit on the right.
So, definitely not a match! And on to another reason I focus on the reverse. As I always state attribution is a major step in the review process and I regularly look up the known genuine reverses in VAMWorld.
For those not familiar with a “VAM,” I quote the following from my friends at APMEX:
A VAM Morgan dollar is a Morgan die variety. VAM Morgan dollars and VAM Peace dollars were first identified by numismatists Leroy Van Allen and A. George Mallis in The Comprehensive Catalog & Encyclopedia of Morgan and Peace Dollars.
VAM is an acronym for both authors’ last names, Van Allen and Mallis, and was adopted after the book was published.
So I looked up this date and mint-mark on their site:

Image from VAMWorld on-line site
Sorting by the known reverses, there are 7 shown on their site and none a match to this subject example.
So, it seems the counterfeiters just continue to pump out fakes at a dizzying pace, including this one with the “fakes in fakes” using counterfeit PCGS slabs and stolen cert #’s. It does make one wonder what if anything PCGS is doing in response.
If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on counterfeit coins by Jack Riley, Jack D. Young and Michael Bugeja at this URL. Also, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
Proxiblog also has hundreds of followers on Facebook Coin Groups. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.
You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

The Carson City Morgan that Isn’t

The Carson City mint closed in 1893, but 7 years later, the mintmark appeared on a Morgan dollar in New Orleans, making this variety one of the most popular in the series.
So how did the 1900-O/CC Morgan Dollar happen?
When the Carson City mint closed, its dies and other minting equipment were sent to Philadelphia Mint. To save funds, rather than make and ship new dies to New Orleans, a Mint employee was tasked with polishing the die, removing the CC and adding the O. As it turns out, he wasn’t a very good employee, failing to remove the CC before striking the “O” over it, resulting in the “O/CC” variety.

Hobbyists who collect all CC Morgans typically add the 1900-O/CC to their collection. It also is required for some set registries. And VAM enthusiasts (VAM catalogues Morgan varieties) especially like the overmintmark error, designating it with these distinctions: VAM-7, VAM-8, VAM-10, VAM-11, VAM-12 and more.
We’ll use VAM designations to show the difference in prominence of the overmintmark.

Hobbyists favor VAMs 10-12 because of the prominence of the overmintmark. All of these above varieties are on the Top 100 most desirable Morgan VAMs.
All 1900-O/CC varieties are valuable, typically more than $100 in any worn condition. At VF40, value rises to $300; AU55, $450; and MS63, $1400.
If you like posts like this, please subscribe so you can get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and social media. To get the latest discussion and commentaries, click here.
You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

Beginner’s Guide to VAMs

Morgan and Peace Dollars are among the most popular and widely collected U.S. coins. While many collectors appreciate these coins for their history and beauty, fewer take the time to explore the fascinating varieties of each series. These varieties, known as VAMs, are named after Leroy Van Allen and A. George Mallis, the researchers who carefully studied and cataloged them by their die marriage.
Learning VAMs can feel like stepping into a whole new dimension of collecting. It’s a field that rewards patience and curiosity, often taking years to master variety attribution. Thankfully, new collectors don’t have to start from scratch! Resources such as the VAMWorld website provide a wealth of information, guides, and images that make this specialized area more approachable.
VAMWorld allows users to “contribute, edit and improve” its listings, continually updated with new discoveries, delisted varieties, renumbered varieties, and other important revisions! It is the most up-to-date listing for Morgan and Peace Dollar varieties. While the site includes a dedicated tab for new collectors, this section is often overlooked. For those just beginning their journey of studying VAMs, I strongly recommend first to read the Definitions and Attribution 101 pages as it will be needed to understand various design changes, date placements, mintmark locations, die clashing and other characteristics of variety attribution and terminology.
At present, VAMs aside, the hobby focuses on errors and varieties with newcomers, in particular, hunting ultra rarities such as 1992/1992-D Close AM or 1982-D Small Date 3.1 grams. Those types of varieties for Morgan and Peace dollars are catalogued in VAMWorld. But we go one step deeper. We not only identify that variety but also the various dies that might have created it and the popularity of those varieties within a variety.
Let’s see how Proxiblog’s Michael Bugeja uses VAMs to show all the various types of 1900-O/CC Morgans. The popularity and value of this Morgan is not only the variety, but the prominence thereof. VAMs 7 through 12 identify the difference in prominence of the overmintmark.

I often stress to newer collectors the importance of learning and understanding the reverse hub types for the Morgan Dollar series. This chart represents all of the reverse hub types used for the series in detail. It mentions only 1878 but is for the entire Morgan series from 1878-1921.

Granted, the above chart might intimidate hobbyists new to VAMs. Let’s simplify everything and show how three different VAM reverses for the 1878 8TF, replete with pickup points:

Developing a strong grasp of these distinctions is invaluable not only for attribution but also for detecting counterfeit pieces, as reverse hub diagnostics can quickly reveal inconsistencies.
In my very first article for Proxiblog, I used VAMs to discover a family of counterfeits that fooled collectors and grading services for decades. I wrote, “The ‘Micro O’ varieties have always been scarce coins to come by, and in 2005, these were deemed counterfeit by PCGS when 3 examples showed repeating circulation marks between the 1896 O VAM-4, 1900 O VAM-5, and 1902 O VAM-3.”
Navigating the VAMWorld website can feel overwhelming for newer collectors, but becomes much easier when utilizing the tools and resources provided. Each date specific page includes a set of guides.
Many collectors focus on the Top 100, Hot 50, and Hit List 40 varieties. These showcase the most popular and valuable varieties, minimizing what is known as “micro-vamming,” or listing insignificant types.
Introducing the Top 100, VAMWorld writes, “Many of these VAMs have entered the mainstream collecting of Morgan dollars; it has become unheard of to claim a complete Morgan dollar collection without including the 1882-O/S, Scarface, Hot Lips, and an 1900-O over CC example among several other varieties.”
Proxiblog emphasizes this with articles on each of those above and more. For instance, click the photo below to go to these VAM varieties that are viewed, simply, as desirable and valuable Morgans:

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You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.

Popular Morgan Dollar Varieties

These varieties not only are popular and valuable but often required for complete set registries of top holdering companies: 1879-CC Capped Die, 1879-S Reverse of 1878, 1880/79-O, 1880/9-S, 1882-O/S Strong, 1882-O/S Weak, and 1887/6 and 1887/6-O.
This article provides key diagnostics so you can identify these valuable coins.
1879-CC Capped Die
The capped die variety happened when the Mint decided to change the small CC into the larger mintmark. An employee tried to tool away the smaller CC and replace it with the larger one. He didn’t do a very good job.

Hobbyists tend to prefer the clear mintmark to the distorted one. The process of effacing the die, or die cap, gave the variety its nickname. As for value, both are rare and desirable through almost uncirculated grades, with the clear mintmark bringing $4,500 in AU55, about $1,000 higher than the variety. But in uncirculated grades, the variety is more valuable, with an MS63 Capped CC commanding a retail price of $10,000 and the clear mintmark about $500 less.
1879-S Rev. of 78
While the 1879-S is a relatively common coin, the reverse of 78 is a rare and coveted variety with a mere 8,900 thought to have survived out of a mintage of 9,110,000. The production that year began with the 1878 reverse dies but were halted early in the process for the 79 variety. The 1878 reverse dies feature a flat-breasted eagle and parallel top arrow feathers whereas the regular reverse has a rounded breast and larger top feature at a slant.
The new “Reverse of 1879” dies were quickly put into production, making the Reverse of 1878 variety a notable and desirable key date for collectors.

As you might expect, the 78 reverse commands much higher values across conditions with an MS63 worth $1,600 while the regular mintmark coin goes for $100.
1880/79-O
The 1880/79-O Morgan dollar variety resulted from the New Orleans Mint reusing an older, dated die from 1879 by re-engraving it with the new 1880 date. The mint worker did not fully erase the older date, so faint traces of the “79” are visible beneath the “80.” (Note: The same happened at the San Francisco Mint with an even weaker trace of the overdate–so weak that we exclude it from this article.)
Both practices of repurposing older dies was a way to conserve resources.
Here is the 1880/79-O overdate, compliments PCGS CoinFacts:

Because the remnant of the numbers 79 are usually faint, you may need a coin microscope to identify this variety. As for value, a regular 1880-O at MS63 retails for $90 whereas the 1880/79 goes for $800. That makes it very desirable.
1880/9-S
There are many VAM varieties (catalog of die markers) in 1880 Morgans, including 1880 VAM 6 8/7, 1880 VAM 7 8/7 Crossbar, 1880 VAM 8 8/7 Ears, 1880 VAM 9 8/7 Stem and 1880 VAM 11 Checkmark. We’ll leave those for another date. In this article we focus on the 1880/9-S because these are available and popular but may require a coin microscope to see on worn coins.
The 1880/9-S features the last digit of the date partially struck over the digit “9.” Here’s a PCGS CoinFacts photo showing remnants of the “9” in the overdate:

This variety is attractive because so many 1880-S Morgans were strongly struck and available in high mint state grades. The number of 1880/9-S Morgan dollars is not known out of a total 8,900,000.
An 1880-S at MS63 retails for $90 whereas the overdate goes for $160 at this writing.
1882-O/S Strong, 1882-O/S Weak
In 1882, the New Orleans Mint received a shipment of leftover reverse dies from the San Francisco Mint. A employee polished and overpunched an O on the S, creating the variety. The facility had three different reverse dies re-purposed for the New Orleans mint. Some overpunching was better than others, creating strong and weak versions.

The 1880-O had a modest mintage of 6,090,000. Many were melted in 1918 according to the Pittman Act and a mere 25,000 of the variety are said to have survived making them valuable. In MS63, a strong version retails for $550 and the weak version, $375. A regular 1880-O goes for $110 in that grade.
1887/6 and 1887/6-O
The 1887/6 and 1887/6-O varieties occurred because a U.S. Mint employee reused an existing 1886-dated die for striking 1887 Morgan dollars, but failed to completely erase the original “6” before engraving the new “7,” leaving a faint “6” under the “7.”
These usually are faint and may require a coin microscope to detect.

These overdates were melted in huge numbers according to the Pittman act. A regular 1887 at MS63 retails for $90 and an 1887-O, $275. An 1887/6 retails for $1,000 and an 1887/6-O for $2,400. That price difference is a reason for the popularity of these varieties.
If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on buying, selling and collecting at Proxiblog.org. Also, please subscribe to get our weekly newsletter and be informed whenever there is a new article or column.
Proxiblog also has hundreds of followers on Facebook Coin Groups. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.
You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.
