Buying Coins: “How’d I do?”


Increasingly on social media, coin buyers display their recent purchases and ask, “How did I do?” If you ask this question, you probably should not be buying expensive coins. Then again, you can learn how you did by reading this article, which takes you step by step in the buying and bidding process.

For starters, if the coin is in a top-tier slab (PCGS, NGC, ANACS, CAC, ICG), you don’t need to ask that question. Just go to the cert of the holdering company, and you will see retail, wholesale and auction prices. See this article for details.

In the past, new collectors used to learn about coin value from brick-and-mortar shop owners who also belonged to the Professional Numismatist Guild. Now the number of coin shops have declined steadily due to high overhead (rent, security, insurance, inventory) and risk of robbery. Meanwhile coin magazine subscriptions plummeted. For instance, Coin World‘s readership declined from 33.4 million in 2015 to 21.5 million in 2019. Now the magazine measures its audience digitally, with some 65,000 collectors on its social media platforms and 40,000 on its marketplace page.

As a result, collectors prefer the convenience of buying online but often are misinformed by clickbait social media.

In the past, people had buyer’s remorse when they were hoodwinked. Now many collectors do not even realize they have been scammed.

Given these risks, how should they go about buying coins?

  1. Learn how to grade if buying raw or unholdered coins.
  2. Buy from reputable third-party graders, especially if you don’t know how to grade.
  3. Identify counterfeit coins masquerading in fake holders.
  4. Know common flaws that buyers often miss.
  5. Visit PCGS Photograde and compare your coin to grades listed there.
  6. Before you bid on or purchase a coin, visit PCGS CoinFacts to see both retail, wholesale and auction values.
  7. Only patronize online sellers who accept returns.

Let’s go through the above list with a coin being sold on eBay at this writing. Great Southern Coins is a reputable seller that also accepts returns:


This seller states that the coin is semi-prooflike and gem brilliant uncirculated. If you know how to grade, you might have a different opinion. It looks almost uncirculated or low mint state with flaws (scrapes, bag marks, rim dings and a pin scratch):


Now let’s go to Photograde and see what condition may match the raw coin above:


So we’re looking at an MS61 1879 Morgan. Now let’s consult PCGS CoinFacts for possible value:

Here we read about mintage and specifications:


Time to see retail and auction prices. An 1879 without flaws retails for $90 with 516 graded by PCGS at that level selling roughly at auction for about $70-100 with values seemingly rising over the years from about $50 in 2014.


But this 1879 from Great Southern Coins has flaws. What does one in a similar condition go for? CoinFacts again supplies the answer: $65.


Great Southern Coins ships inexpensively for $3.25 so I don’t have to worry about additional buyer’s fees and mailing. A good maximum bid for this coin would be $50.

If this coin were featured on HiBid or Live Auctioneers you would place a different maximum bid because sellers on those platforms often charge 15-25 percent buyer fees and $10-15 mailing. So if bidding here, your maximum would be $30 ($6 buyer fee at 20% and $14 mailing).

Here’s an example from a seller who already knows the value of the coin based on his starting $35 bid. But here you also pay $15 for shipping in addition to 15% buyer’s fee. So if you won the coin with a $35 bid, you would pay $5.25 plus $15 for a total: $55.25.


Now that you know the process, practice on eBay or HiBid/Live Auctioneers–not by bidding–but by following bidding and final sale and see if your estimate would have lost or won the coin. Do this repeatedly until you are confident in your purchasing skills.

If you like posts like this, you can read more articles on buying, selling and collecting at Proxiblog.org. Also, please subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about errors and varieties as well as buying and bidding on coins in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider purchasing the work for yourself or a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist website. Thank you.

How to Grade Coins


The ability to grade is based on how many coins you have viewed as a hobbyist and how many numismatic books you have read and educational websites you have visited. In other words, it takes time and experience as well as equipment and resources. No single article, including this one, can train you to master the basics below.

But this article will get you started with the basics.

Learn the Sheldon 1-70 scale on which coins are graded, establishing value. Here are designations:  Poor (Po 1)Fair (Fr 2)About Good (AG 3)Good (G 4)Very Good (VG 8-10)Fine (F 12Very Fine (VF 20-35)Extra/Extremely Fine (EF or XF 40-45)Almost Uncirculated (AU 50-58)Uncirculated/Brilliant Uncirculated (UNC 60-70)


Know numismatic terms (see this glossary) so that you can identify flaws, cleaning, condition rarities, varieties, errors and more. If a coin is dipped, for instance, or has machine doubling, it is not worth grading with a reputable holdering company (more on that later).

Know the various coin designations (see this post) so that you can identify full steps in nickels, full bands in dimes, full head in standing quarters, full bell lines in Franklin halves, and so on. Otherwise you will err when it comes to strike and value.

Bone up on counterfeit coins because so many of these are polluting the hobby market. Read this post and visit Jack Young’s fun with fakes Facebook site.


Start by grading a large coin with generous fields and well-defined devices, such as the Morgan dollar. This is the best beginner grader coin because of the prominent cheek of Lady Liberty on the obverse and eagle breast feathers on the reverse.

PCGS uses the Morgan dollar to illustrate grades and conditions.


Purchase a coin scale and a loupe to detect counterfeits, polish lines, hairlines, bag marks and other conditions and defects. Coin microscopes are not very useful. You have to train your eyes, not compensate for them. After you have achieved some expertise in the hobby, consider a microscope for some varieties and errors.


Compare your coin with the various grades for each denomination as found on the PCGS Photograde website. The process of comparison sharpens your eye and deepens your knowledge.


Invest in a coin grading library, purchasing best-selling books like Official ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins Hardcover by Kenneth Bressett, The Official Guide to Coin Grading and Counterfeit Detection by John Dannreuther and Scott A. Travers, and Photograde: Official Photographic Grading Guide for United States Coins by James F. Ruddy.


Set up your own coin grading room where you can work undisturbed by humans, phones, pets and other distractions.


Invest in lighting. Fluorescent lights are useful if you are inspecting luster and high points of coins. This type of lighting is soft, but works well if you’re using a loupe. In general, many numismatists use a 100W bulb for uncirculated and circulated business strike coins and a 75W bulb for prooflike and proof coins. You can also purchase a LED desk with dimming and brightening levels. Some have USB charging ports and touch control features.


Wear gloves when you handle coins.  If you don’t have any handy, grasp coins by the edges so that the oils of your fingers do not taint the fields and devices.


Grade from edges inward. Start the grading process by looking at the edges and rims to make sure there are no dents, bumps or defects. Then in a clockwise motion begin your inspection on the outer fields and gradually go inward toward the center of your coin. Do the same on both sides noting wear, hairlines, bag marks, cleaning, defects and other conditions that affect the value of a coin.


Learn what makes coins valuable (see this article). Join a local or online coin club. Visit Facebook coin groups where experts share their numismatic knowledge.


Choose a reputable holdering company, such as PCGS, NGC, CAC, ANACS and send a submission, realizing that you’re likely paying $40 or more for each coin, after fees, mailing and membership dues. Consult auction values (not retail ones) on PCGS CoinFacts and decide whether the cost is reasonable.

Do not buy AI-powered coin grading apps like CoinSnap. These are unreliable and often inflate prices for face value coins.

Anticipate grading miscalculations. This skill takes time. We all believe our coins are better than they actually are. That’s why third-party grading is important.

If you like posts like this, subscribe so you can be informed whenever there is a new article or column.

Proxiblog also has thousands of followers on Facebook Coin Groups, YouTube and social media. To get the latest discussion and commentary, be sure to friend us by clicking here.

You can find more information about types, varieties, errors, grading, bidding and buying in Coin News Updated: The Essential Guide to Online Bidding. Please consider buying or gifting the work for a friend, as it underwrites this hobbyist blog. Thank you.