The Carson City mint closed in 1893, but 7 years later, the mintmark appeared on a Morgan dollar in New Orleans, making this variety one of the most popular in the series.
So how did the 1900-O/CC Morgan Dollar happen?
When the Carson City mint closed, its dies and other minting equipment were sent to Philadelphia Mint. To save funds, rather than make and ship new dies to New Orleans, a Mint employee was tasked with polishing the die, removing the CC and adding the O. As it turns out, he wasn’t a very good employee, failing to remove the CC before striking the “O” over it, resulting in the “O/CC” variety.
Hobbyists who collect all CC Morgans typically add the 1900-O/CC to their collection. It also is required for some set registries. And VAM enthusiasts (VAM catalogues Morgan varieties) especially like the overmintmark error, designating it with these distinctions: VAM-7, VAM-8, VAM-10, VAM-11, VAM-12 and more.
We’ll use VAM designations to show the difference in prominence of the overmintmark.
Hobbyists favor VAMs 10-12 because of the prominence of the overmintmark. All of these above varieties are on the Top 100 most desirable Morgan VAMs.
All 1900-O/CC varieties are valuable, typically more than $100 in any worn condition. At VF40, value rises to $300; AU55, $450; and MS63, $1400.
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These varieties not only are popular and valuable but often required for complete set registries of top holdering companies: 1879-CC Capped Die, 1879-S Reverse of 1878, 1880/79-O, 1880/9-S, 1882-O/S Strong, 1882-O/S Weak, and 1887/6 and 1887/6-O.
This article provides key diagnostics so you can identify these valuable coins.
1879-CC Capped Die
The capped die variety happened when the Mint decided to change the small CC into the larger mintmark. An employee tried to tool away the smaller CC and replace it with the larger one. He didn’t do a very good job.
Hobbyists tend to prefer the clear mintmark to the distorted one. The process of effacing the die, or die cap, gave the variety its nickname. As for value, both are rare and desirable through almost uncirculated grades, with the clear mintmark bringing $4,500 in AU55, about $1,000 higher than the variety. But in uncirculated grades, the variety is more valuable, with an MS63 Capped CC commanding a retail price of $10,000 and the clear mintmark about $500 less.
1879-S Rev. of 78
While the 1879-S is a relatively common coin, the reverse of 78 is a rare and coveted variety with a mere 8,900 thought to have survived out of a mintage of 9,110,000. The production that year began with the 1878 reverse dies but were halted early in the process for the 79 variety. The 1878 reverse dies feature a flat-breasted eagle and parallel top arrow feathers whereas the regular reverse has a rounded breast and larger top feature at a slant.
The new “Reverse of 1879” dies were quickly put into production, making the Reverse of 1878 variety a notable and desirable key date for collectors.
As you might expect, the 78 reverse commands much higher values across conditions with an MS63 worth $1,600 while the regular mintmark coin goes for $100.
1880/79-O
The 1880/79-O Morgan dollar variety resulted from the New Orleans Mint reusing an older, dated die from 1879 by re-engraving it with the new 1880 date. The mint worker did not fully erase the older date, so faint traces of the “79” are visible beneath the “80.” (Note: The same happened at the San Francisco Mint with an even weaker trace of the overdate–so weak that we exclude it from this article.)
Both practices of repurposing older dies was a way to conserve resources.
Here is the 1880/79-O overdate, compliments PCGS CoinFacts:
Because the remnant of the numbers 79 are usually faint, you may need a coin microscope to identify this variety. As for value, a regular 1880-O at MS63 retails for $90 whereas the 1880/79 goes for $800. That makes it very desirable.
1880/9-S
There are many VAM varieties (catalog of die markers) in 1880 Morgans, including 1880 VAM 6 8/7, 1880 VAM 7 8/7 Crossbar, 1880 VAM 8 8/7 Ears, 1880 VAM 9 8/7 Stem and 1880 VAM 11 Checkmark. We’ll leave those for another date. In this article we focus on the 1880/9-S because these are available and popular but may require a coin microscope to see on worn coins.
The 1880/9-S features the last digit of the date partially struck over the digit “9.” Here’s a PCGS CoinFacts photo showing remnants of the “9” in the overdate:
This variety is attractive because so many 1880-S Morgans were strongly struck and available in high mint state grades. The number of 1880/9-S Morgan dollars is not known out of a total 8,900,000.
An 1880-S at MS63 retails for $90 whereas the overdate goes for $160 at this writing.
1882-O/S Strong, 1882-O/S Weak
In 1882, the New Orleans Mint received a shipment of leftover reverse dies from the San Francisco Mint. A employee polished and overpunched an O on the S, creating the variety. The facility had three different reverse dies re-purposed for the New Orleans mint. Some overpunching was better than others, creating strong and weak versions.
The 1880-O had a modest mintage of 6,090,000. Many were melted in 1918 according to the Pittman Act and a mere 25,000 of the variety are said to have survived making them valuable. In MS63, a strong version retails for $550 and the weak version, $375. A regular 1880-O goes for $110 in that grade.
1887/6 and 1887/6-O
The 1887/6 and 1887/6-O varieties occurred because a U.S. Mint employee reused an existing 1886-dated die for striking 1887 Morgan dollars, but failed to completely erase the original “6” before engraving the new “7,” leaving a faint “6” under the “7.”
These usually are faint and may require a coin microscope to detect.
These overdates were melted in huge numbers according to the Pittman act. A regular 1887 at MS63 retails for $90 and an 1887-O, $275. An 1887/6 retails for $1,000 and an 1887/6-O for $2,400. That price difference is a reason for the popularity of these varieties.
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Sunken die errors occur when a die’s surface deteriorates to such extent that it collapses, typically due to subpar planchets or hardening of those planchets, resulting in a recessed or “sunken” area on the die along with a raised portion of metal.
Let’s begin with showing how similar a sunken die is when compared with a heat damaged coin:
To tell the difference, look for that raised portion on the surface. Heat damaged coins have a bubble-like look from melting metal–a key distinction.
Also, die cracks often appear along the margin of a sunken die.
The opposite side of a sunken-die coin shows more of the design with tell-tale deformities depending on the severity of the die subsidence.
Let’s look at the reverse of the sunken die cent above:
The edge here is largely intact. Also, elements of the design are visible.
Heat damage can affect a coin’s service in several ways due high temperature. For instance, a coin melted in part in a house fire may look different from one exposed to a blow torch.
Look for discoloration of the metal ranging from rainbow patina to black or rust-like tone. The heat-damaged coin earlier has the tell-tale rainbow discoloration:
Also, check for edge damage appearing squeezed or distorted due to melting. Edges of sunken dies may have relatively damage-free appearance. If a clad coin, heat also can expose the different metals, often in patches.
In conclusion, here are key differences
Origin: Sunken die errors occur during the minting process due to a flawed die, while heat damage occurs after the coin has been minted due to environmental factors.
Nature of abnormality: Sunken die errors typically manifest as a raised area on the coin’s surface, exposing the sunken portion of the die. Heat damage can create a range of surface irregularities, discoloration, and deformation not associated with the die’s design.
Context: If a coin exhibits a raised area that seems to be a part of the original design, but appears distorted or indistinct, it might be a sunken die error. If the coin shows signs of burning, melting, or discoloration, it’s more likely to be heat damage.
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Known by its distinctive golden surface and edge lettering, the Native American dollar, introduced in 2009, is a continuation of the Sacagawea dollar series, featuring her on the obverse and a different reverse design each year. There are several major varieties, featured here, and several weak/partial/missing edge and position varieties.
Let’s cover the latter first:
Position A: The edge lettering is upside down when the obverse (Sacagawea’s portrait side) is facing up.
Position B: The edge lettering is right-side up when the obverse is facing up.
Here’s an illustration:
Edge lettering is applied after the coin is struck with both positions considered normal, typically without any rarity or substantial value. However, weak/partial, missing and double edge lettering are highly desirable.
Here are illustrations:
Here are main years you want to search for along with values for gem MS65:
2009-P Native American – Pos. B Partial, $200
2009-P Native American – Pos. B Weak, $75
2009 Native American Missing Edge Lettering, $35
2010-P Native American Missing Edge Lettering, $75
2011-P Dbld Edge Let., Overlap, Pos. A, $85
2012-P Native American, Pos. A Weak Lettering, $90
2012-P Native American, Pos. B Weak Lettering, $40
2013-P Native American, Pos. B Dbld Edge Overlap, $350
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There are four varieties and one popular error in the Walking Liberty Half Dollar series with different mintmark placements for the 1917 Denver and San Francisco coins and one 1946 doubled die reverse.
We’ll begin with the mintmark placements. The 1917 Philadelphia half, of course, had no mintmark. But initially, the halves from the Denver and San Francisco mints had the same placements as 1916 D and S. Production began in January. In February, Mint Director F. J. H. von Engelken thought the mintmark under the motto looked like a die defect; so he ordered the mintmark moved to the reverse, thus creating four varieties.
Here is a visual of the four half dollars:
Because production was halted, we know the mintage of each variety: 1917-D Obverse, 765,400; 1917-D Reverse, 1,940,000; 1917-S Obverse, 952,000; and 1917-S Reverse, 5,554,000. Any of the four in uncirculated condition retails in the thousands. Typically, if you’re a bank roll hunter, you will find worn examples. Values for VF30 are 1917-D Obverse, $250; 1917-D Reverse, $285; 1917-S Obverse, $650; and 1917-S Reverse, $150.
The reverse mintmark remained on Walking Liberty Halves coins through 1947, the last year in the series.
A year earlier, the Mint at Philadelphia, a die contained doubled letters on the reverse. PCGS estimates some 3,000 were released into circulation. Here is an illustration:
The doubling here is easy to spot on the “L,” “U” and “R.” An example in Good 4 is worth $50, rising to $110 in VF30 and in the hundreds and thousands in almost uncirculated and mint state.
The popularity of these varieties and doubled die is based on their often turning up in worn condition in bank rolls. Happy Hunting!
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The 1880-CC Morgan Dollars have several varieties that occurred to save the Mint money. Dies for these coins were made at the Philadelphia mint. The Carson City Mint, like other mints at the time, frequently reused dies by repolishing and re-engraving them. This process led to overdates and different reverses.
This is a basic article without naming other VAM varieties (cataloging different die markers). Visit here if you want to learn about VAMs.
1878 and 79 Reverses
Let’s start with the two reverses, compliments PCGS CoinFacts, so that we can understand the role they play in the varieties.
Now let’s proceed to the varieties and overdates.
1880-CC Regular Strike
The 1880-CC, regular strike, has the rounded breast of 1879:
1880-CC Rev. 78 (Regular Strike)
The first variety, then, is the 1880-CC Rev. 78:
Now that we know how to distinguish which reverse, we move on them to the various overdates.
1880-CC “8 over Low 7” and “8 over High 7”
Below find markers for the 1880-CC 8 over Low 7 (Regular Strike [aka Reverse of 79]) and 8 over High 7 (Regular Strike).
If the coin is worn, you might not be able to identify what you have without a microscope, and even then you might not be able to see the low/high 7. Fortunately, many 1880-CC varieties are uncirculated from bags released by the Mint as well as GSA dollars (more on those later).
Here is a blow-up so you can tell:
Two distinctions. The 8 over Low 7 has a remnant of the 7 in the middle of the top loop of the 8 and what looks like a die chip with some space between it and the bottom of the 8; the 8 over High 7 has the remnant close to the top of the 8 and the remnant close and almost touching the bottom of the 8.
1880-CC 8/7 Rev. 78
As you now might have guessed, another variety is the 1880-CC 8 over 7 with the 78 reverse. Look for the remnant of the 7 in the top loop of the 8:
Here’s the obverse and reverse of the above coin to give you an idea of how faint the remnant is and why you might not see it in a worn version. (There are other die markers to identify which variety you have but are omitted from this article, focusing on the basics.)
1880/79-CC $1 Reverse of 1878 (Regular Strike)
Yet another variety. How did this one happen?
Dies originally intended for 1879 dated coins were repurposed for 1880 production by overpunching the date with “1880,” resulting in the visible “80/79” overdate. This practice of repurposing dies helped conserve resources at the time. The reverse die used was the “Reverse of 1878,” characterized by a flat eagle breast and parallel top arrow feather.
Values
Values for each of the varieties differ so you might want to focus on the rarer ones, especially if you have acquired GSA Dollars, which do not distinguish between the various varieties in their holders:
Here is a table with each variety’s retail worth at MS63 from CoinFacts:
VARIETY VALUE AT MS63
1880-CC Regular Strike
$875
1880-CC Rev. of 78
$1450
1880-CC 8 over High 7
$950
1880-CC 8 over Low 7
$900
1880-CC 8 over 7 Rev. 78
$1350
1880/79-CC Rev. of 78
$1450
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Micro mintmarks are valuable and relatively easy to identify if you know how to compare them with their regular counterparts. In this post we will describe two desired ones in the Morgan Dollar series along with counterfeits that hobbyists may not immediately detect.
1899-O Micro O
The 1899-O Micro O’s mintmark is noticeably smaller than regular size mintmarks normally seen on Morgan dollars. Its size would fit well on a Quarter Dollar. Here is a comparison from PCGS CoinFacts:
The normal mintmark is oval shaped and the micro, circle shaped. The micro mintmark is closer to the ribbon of the laurel wreath and farther from the “D” and “O” of “Dollar.” The 1899-O Micro O is not rare, as thousands were released into circulation; however, because of the popularity of the Morgan series, is coveted and also included in registry sets.
If you are interested in VAM designations, which many collectors are, you can find this micro mintmark under several varieties, with popular ones being 4,5,6 and 31. (VAM stands for Van Allen-Mallis, the surnames of the two numismatists, who cataloged die varieties of Morgan and Peace silver dollars.)
Values of the 1899-O Micro O are in the thousands for mint state examples. Almost uncirculated examples retail in the high hundreds. But worn examples, which often are found in auctions and estate sales, sell for a few hundred dollars or less, depending on condition.
1903-S Micro S
The 1903-S Micro S Silver Dollar also has a noticeably tiny mintmark, again, what might be used on a Quarter Dollar. Speculation is the engraver at the Mint used the wrong punch and didn’t realize the error.
Again, the variety is easy to identify as the mintmark (similar font) is roughly about half size of a normal mintmark.
As with the 1899-O Micro O, this variety is relatively plentiful with hundreds slabbed by top third-party grading companies. The VAM 2 variety is especially desired.
Values, even in worn condition, are much higher than the 1899-O Micro O. The 1899-O had a mintage of 12,290,000; the 1903-S, 1,241,000. As such, even at G4, the retail for the 1903-S variety is about $100. Values rise substantially thereafter reaching a $1,000 at VF35 and soaring into tens of thousands in AU58 and higher.
Counterfeit Micro Mintmarks
Micro mintmarks 1896-O, 1900-O and 1902-O are not modern but counterfeited during the time that Morgan dollars were still being minted, making them difficult to detect for the novice collector.
PCGS has a brilliant article about these, which you can access by clicking here. Here is an illustration from that article, compliments PCGS:
PCGS notes that these contain identical linear marks, or lumps, created during the transfer process. A genuine coin would be used to create a working die, leaving lumps and other telltale signs.
Perhaps the most famous counterfeit micro O is the 1901-O Micro O, which many hobbyists actually collect. Like the 1896-O, 1900-O, and 1902-O varieties, these are high-quality fakes. PCGS states, “These fakes are notable for their deceptive similarity to genuine coins, being made of good silver and exhibiting sharp details, especially in higher-grade examples.”
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This video showcases visually Proxiblog’s most popular post for 1992/92-D Close AM, 1998-2000 Wide AM and the 1998/99 Proof Close AM. You can read an in-depth article by clicking here.
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Roll hunters have been finding thousands of a 2023 Lincoln Shield Cent variety featuring a second “V” after the designer initials “V.D.B.,” for Victor David Brenner.
Top holdering companies PCGS, NGC and ANACS are slabbing this variety. Here’s how it looks:
You can find this error in pocket change, too, providing the coin is almost uncirculated or higher. The extra “V” would be hard to detect in worn coins. You also may need a loupe or magnification to affirm the find.
The Mint isn’t sure how this error happened but suspect it did during the die preparation stage.
Dies are heated to 1,800°F, doused in water and then heated again to make the steel more durable. The die is cleaned and examined under magnification to detect flaws; then it is buffed for a smooth strike.
Experts surmise the extra “V” happened at this stage. A mischievous could have punched the extra “V” into the die or a glitch occurred in the software controlling the die design.
In 2023, Coin World did an exclusive on the VDB-V cent, estimating how many made it into circulation. Paul Gilkes wrote, “Lincoln cent dies are capable of producing in excess of 1 million coins per die pair.” That means you have a great chance of finding one.
Coin World also reported that ANACS has certified 94 examples: NGC, 84 examples; and PCGS, 67. Examples have been graded as high as MS68.
Typically, however, holdered examples will be in the MS64-66 range, like the one below.
Finding the extra V is part of the fun. Prices have been trending downward in the past 1 1/2 years. The early finds were selling for $375-500. But now you can purchase excellent raw examples for under $25.
Because so many were minted, people have found rolls containing 50 of the error. eBay has several sellers offering the variety at basement prices.
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With the emphasis now on error coins, thanks in part to coin microscope sales and hyperbolic coin values on social media, it is important to know the difference between machine and hub doubling.
This is a tutorial.
Let’s start with a photo showing a machined v. hub doubled 1969-S cent. Both look significant. Only one is. Can you tell the difference? (We’ll return to these coins momentarily.)
Machine doubling, the above left photo, adds no or little value to coins. It happens when a die at the Mint begins to deteriorate and so may bounce during a strike, creating a flat shelf-like image. The date, device, lettering and mintmark can appear to be doubled.
Hub doubling, valuable, indicates a flaw in the die itself. Unlike machine doubling, which happens during a strike, someone at the Mint made an etching mistake. Mintmarks before 1989 were punched into the die; but this is distinct from hub doubling. We call these deviations “repunched mintmarks” (RPM). Hub doubling produces a raised, rounded impression that follows the flow of the date, lettering or device.
Let’s illustrate this again more closely with the 1969-S DDO cent, one of the most illusive coins, worth a bundle. It is ultra rare with PCGS holdering only 30+ coins. You can read about that here.
Clickbait social media says you can find one in pocket change. Oh, and you’ll need to buy a coin microscope for that. Fat chance.
New collectors who routinely consult social media for any number of topics often believe these hyped posts. Odds are you will never find a 1969-S DDO in rolls or pocket change. But you can find dozens of machined doubled ones on eBay and elsewhere masquerading as an authentic 1969-S DDO with sellers asking hundreds and thousands for a faux coin:
Let’s return to the images mentioned earlier and show distinctions between machine doubled and authentic doubled dies:
Machine Doubling, Left; Hub Doubling, Right
The machine doubled cent has a flat, shelf-like doubling. The doubling does not mirror the individual numbers but seem pushed to the right. The hub doubled cent has raised rounded digits that follow the contours of the numbers.
In addition to the ability to distinguish between machine and hub doubling, veteran collectors know how to identify replicas flooding the market from China. You can buy these fake ultra rarities on venues like Etsy for less than $30.
These replicas are purchased by scammers and then posted on eBay as the real deal. Now you have to compare devices with genuine coins. To do that, google a genuine one in a PCGS holder and compare doubled devices.
The obvious difference is the word “Liberty.” Take a closer look:
The doubling on the replica is mushy and below the original letters of “Liberty”; the doubling on the authentic coin is above “Liberty” with each letter mirroring the original and shifted to the right.
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